Member postings for AdrianR

You can hang heavy loads on unistrut. I used to fit X-Ray machines. It was normal to bolt the slide rails to the unistrut.

Before I start attacking the sight glass with force I thought I would ask here.

I have a leak from the head stock sight glass on my BH600. The Grizzly manual for the same type of lathe says to remove the sight glass to do an oil change.

The sight glass is completely round with no visible sign of o-ring or thread. I am sure it must be easy an easy trick to it. Any ideas?

Adrian

Edited By AdrianR on 06/05/2019 08:13:11

Thanks guys, that makes things clear.

I have a set of Vertex ER25 collets and holder that came with my mill.

I guess I should not use threaded shank cutters, but is it OK to use straight shank cutters that have a flat also?

It seems threaded shank cutters are more common. Should I not use ER collets and get a threaded shank tool holder?

Thanks

Adrian

Another way to quench the arc is to use a capacitor from a car distributor.

I cant say I have used them a lot but they have always been excellent.

When I was a much younger man I used to go to the shop in Dartmouth with my parents. Mum would go shopping leaving me and Dad to browse, it was a wonderful place.

I now have my first mill, and am going to buy my first milling cutters from TT at Doncaster next week.

Opps, didn't even think of searching for a thread, thanks Thor

I have inherited some bars of copper alloy. I think it may be bronze as the guy used to restore motorbikes.

Is there any DIY way to tell the difference between brass and bronze?

Many many moons ago I had some Blacky tape, it was pre-Internet days and I did not realise it was still available. I started using self amalgamating tape. It is sort of a modern equivalent.

For those that dont know it, it is a black silicon rubber tape, it does not have adhesive, you stretch it and wind it round, after a few hours it fuses together. Great for repairing nicks in cable outer sleeving.

Also good for cable strain relief, if you have a cable that always breaks near the tool, a few winds of tape works a treat to stop it happening again.

I recently bought a level from arc euro, I chose the straight level not the frame one to save money. I wish I had bought the frame one. I am in the process of levelling my lathe now and don't regret getting a cheep one.

I read the spec 0.02mm/m and I understand it is pretty sensitive, but when i started playing with the level I truly appreciated how sensitive it is, a piece of tin foil is a mountain.

The level is too short to bridge the bed, and it is slightly too wide to sit along the slide way. It is not flat bottomed, it only has ground edges. Initial levelling I can use the cross slide. To do the full levelling need to make a bridge across the bed, with one end using a V slide way the other using the flat slide way. Some thing to think about if you buy a level.

Looking at the drawings on page 6 and 7 it looks like a series connection to me. I would make some sense to have it series. It would halve the current the contacts have to break. In fig 1 it is showing a 6V battery, which should be enough for a series coils.

Just a couple of thoughts.

Micro stepping is a nifty feature but is not usually guaranteed for positional accuracy. The higher the micro stepping ration the greater the error. So if you are using 32 micro steps, 5 steps could be quite normal error.

How fast are you driving this? if it is too fast you could be missing steps. Just because you tell the motor to move does not mean it does. Especially when accelerating. Are you using ramped acceleration/de-acceleration?

Edited By AdrianR on 21/04/2019 10:53:42

I just found you can download the whole book as a pdf from a site in the USA.

Hopper,

That does not fill me with confidence, If they send me one that is the same, I will do you a swap. between the two editions we will have a complete book each.

I just received a copy of Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook. It has printing errors.

It has two section 8's "Steam and the steam engine", the end of section 10 "Boiler Work" is missing and the whole of section 11 "Piston and gland seals" is missing.

If you have a copy you may want to check yours, or hold off from buying one for a while.

Adrian

A few weeks back there was a thread saying about the poor quality of some Reeves castings and the terrible customer support. In a nut shell, apparently they are selling castings they know are bad.

Ed,

Yeup, defiantly was oil filled. After removing the motor, I lay the head down and forgot about the oil. I now have a nice puddle on the new workshop floor.

FYI this is it.

Adrian.

Edited By AdrianR on 13/04/2019 19:58:46

Re brushes, I have heard bristle for oil and synthetic for water.

I also dampen synthetic with water, and dampen bristle with white spirit before starting.

Another thing to improve bristle brushes is to use fabric softener after washing them out with soapy water and dry overnight wrapped in kitchen roll.That is after cleaning them with white spirit of course.

Adrian

When I painted my canal boat, the sign writer I knew gave me an additive to make the paint flow. I think it was owatrol-oil They also do one for water based paint, but I have not tried it Floetrol

Adrian

Edited By AdrianR on 13/04/2019 10:29:27

Hi Dave,

The Morris oil in your example is the one I just ordered. So all good.

Adrian