Member postings for AdrianR

I just discovered periscope films on YouTube

I always wondered how variable pitch propellers work, Well worth a watch

Hmm, that is what I thought.

So from my usual suppliers I have a choice, Colphos 90, PB 102, SAE660

Which would be the best to use?

Adrian

Hi,

I am making Myfordsboy's 2.5" boiler. On the drawings is says use brass for the bushes. On the video he says use bronze.

I am also thinking of making all the other fittings from brass.

How much of an issue is it to use brass instead of bronze for boiler fittings, considering this will only be fired a few times.

Thanks

Adrian

I don't know the official answer, but why not just use the same angles as on the cutter.

A.

As we have not had any rain recently in the UK we soon will need to water. That would make one hell of a lawn sprinkler.

You could make a pair of coffee cups to match This Old Tony's Coffee Pot

Before speeding up the old girl, As Mick B1 suggested, do try using some positive rake on a really sharp tool.

As Ady1 eluded, yes cash will disappear as there is big money to be made. We will get it weather we want it or not due to the power of advertising convincing the masses.

We will all end up paying for it, the 1% to 5% transaction fee comes ut of our pockets not the retailers.

Being a relative newby I would recommend the following;

• A set of indexed tool holders. Grinding your own tools is great, but carbide is a lot easier to get started with.
• Tail stock chuck
• 3 and 4 jaw chuck
• Tail stock centers, 1/2 and whole dead. live is a luxury but useful. You can make them, but they are very cheep.
• DTI and mag base.
• Micrometer
• Vernier
• Parting tool, I would recommend these
• Drills, a set of HSS 1mm - 10mm ideally in 0.1mm steps but at least the tapping and clearance sizes. A few larger drills big enough for your boring bar.
• Taps and Dies
• Metal, lots of it, free turning steel, brass and aluminium. Nothing stops you making things faster than not having the materials. Some silver steel is also good to have.

After that just buy things as you need them.

You also need to find what rocks your boat. Models, engines, tools? So find a few small projects to make. A tailstock die holder and a wobbler steam engine is a good start.

Adrian

The oil should be OK, it is Morris ISO 68 that I use on my lathe, no nasty yellow metal eating additives.

The silver steel is from M-machine, it was what I was expecting, nice and shiny with a smooth ground finish. Not polished, more of a brushed look.

This is what I am making **LINK**

I drilled the bush at 5.8mm and reamed to 6mm, and it looked pretty good to me. So I dont think it was a bad finish in the bush.

When I run the engine the oil goes black, just like using metal polish. That is why I was wondering if people polish the shaft before fitting, just to remove some of the sharp edges on the ground surface.

Maybe I should stop being tight and by some bronze.

Adrian

Hi,

In my wobbler engine is says to use a silver steel axle in either a brass or bronze bush.

I did not have any bronze so used CZ121 brass but the bush seems to be wearing faster than I would expect. In about 1hr it has gone from a good fit to having noticeable (an audible) side play. The surface of the silver steel has a ground finish and I am wondering if it should be polished before use. Or is using brass really a bad idea.

I am using SAE68 oil.

Thanks,

Adrian

Thanks Bill

Hi I am making a small wobbler and want to use a Meccano spring drive belt on it.

I have just ordered the belt and it is 1.5mm dia, but I do not know what V to cut for it.

The plastic round belts seem recommend 35 - 40 deg V. Does any one know what it should be for a metal belt or have one they could measure?

Thanks

Adrian

Edited By AdrianR on 04/04/2020 08:12:42

Ha! Snap!

I am in the final stages building the same engine.

Don't think mine will look so fancy, well done on the build.

Pure guess, it is to remove clock hands

Those are fearfully small springs. Ever thought of making your own?

From what I can see on helicron this method creates an approximation to the involute curve by cutting a number of facets on each tooth. The more teeth of the gear blank that engage with the cutter, the more facets and hence better approximation. A small gear would only have two or three facets, hence the running noise he mentions.

You could probably improve small gears. If at the end of the full gear rotation, with the cutter engaged with the gear, unlock the indexer and move the cutter height. 1/2 tooth up, re -ut all teeth, 1/2 tooth down, re-cut teeth. That way you would cut more facets.

Probably easier to make a set of involute cutters.

I guess the edges of the facets would wear quickly so it may run OK after a while. I guess they would be ok for light duty and low speed gears.

I would say to get it running try and use NAT first.

Check that Virtualbox is NATing/Bridging you wireless card and not the wired adaptor.

Does your VM have any network devices?

Does the network device have an IP address?

If you do try using the ping cmd from a terminal shell to check you can reach your router. e.g. ping router_ip_address

I have not used VirtualBox, I use VMware Player, so cant help too much with the specifics.

Adrian

I had a DC01 with a lifetime guarantee, I'm still alive, it is not. It ended up needing regular major surgery. In the end I decided it was cheaper to buy a VAX instead of keep replacing the bits.

The motor still runs, in fact it ended up being a blower for my sons furnace.

Would be unfortunate if they offer a life time guarantee for the ventilators.