Member postings for Ajohnw

A DW has a much shorter table length and in my case a bit over 40mm of cast iron running down the side of the table. It isn't the usual DW table. 2 T slots one along each side. Good for some things but vice mounting may need a plate.

The one I linked to is the cheap and cheerful version. Msc did stock another that was way more expensive. They mention that it grips well. Maybe it does. Only 16mm of movement but could be mounted on something else ideally with the screw holes directly over the T slots.

As my self imposed tool bonus hasn't been spent for some time due to workshop problems I've just ordered one. I allow a certain amount each month. I suspect one end will more or less remain clamped to the table.

I noticed that msc also do a 200mm version of the other vice mentioned.

John

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I've done lots of bits and pieces using a record drill vice. The small one that was popular for use on Myford vertical slides. They really need attention to the alignment of the jaws especially the fixed one but hold well enough.

It was permanently fastened to the table most of the time. While nosing around on ebay I saw one of these used and at a decent price.

**LINK**

Crazy design, just look how thick the fixed jaw is compared with the cast iron behind it but I think it will be fine for light milling and more flexible use wise than the record one. Guess they did it like this due to the strength of the base. It wouldn't be suitable for hefty cuts but is well made.

I also have a conventional 4" milling vice. It would probably be perfectly happy on a 5hp geared milling machine. That in my view limits it's opening capacity.

The worst type I have ever seen but it could be a bad example is the small ones that tilt with a metal strap on the side to hold it at a set angle. It came with my dore westbury and if the person who sold that use a decent vice on it and didn't end mill with a blunt slot drill he may have been a lot happier with the machine.

If I needed to do bigger stuff I would probably add one of the 2 piece ones to my kit hoping it has removable jaws. as that's not a bad idea on any machine vice.

John

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This is an example of the other type I mentioned

**LINK**

Mscdirect aren't always more expensive. That is pretty variable on all sorts at times.

John

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I'm pretty sure Crobolt is another stellite type as per Tantung. I think that drillservices uk did or do stock some stellite. Sources for this sort of thing in the uk seem to be scarce.

John

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It's possible to buy ones that come in 2 halves that are fastened down in the T slots on the table. I've been tempted several times but good ones are usually rather expensive.

It's possible to use the arc one shown in the photo without the rotary base - more headroom if needed. The jaw faces can also be repositioned. As they can be removed soft ones could be made to machine as needed. Also given that we generally have lower power machines larger ones to fit on the opposite sides of the jaws.

Arc won't let me post a direct link to the image that shows what I mean to stop others pinching it. It's image 4 on this page

**LINK**

They may be available at larger sizes some where. MscDirect did have them as well.

I have mixed feelings about the downwards force aspect.

John

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Yes the gas spec one is thicker and seems to be usually supplied on a yellow reel. Just 1 1/2 laps should be applied in a left had screw fashion if it's on a right hand thread. Also may be marked high density.

Having used it I think it's an "improvement" we can do without and it still shreds anyway and behaves almost like it's been pre stretched.

You might gather that I have used it and wasn't impressed. I've used the other stuff a number of times and when undone no signs of shredding but different type of joint.

Eihell had used it on the euro coupler supplied loose with the compressor. Their answer was to use the right width and a bit more of it. Result - wont actually go into the female half and finishes up as a sort of ptfe O ring. Not much more either. It might be ok on bigger fittings over 1/4 " bsp. I have seen it used on a cooker hose but it didn't stretch into the threads like usual stuff does.

Parweld use a liquid ptfe. It looks like the screw things in until the taper nearly meets and apply a tiny drop of it. Having undone one I think people would be rather surprised how much effort that took. Maybe the loctite one is better but it's too late to find out once it has been done up.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 21/01/2017 10:16:49

Tried John it makes it more difficult otherwise I would have done it that way.

John

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The other way with some other tailstock would be to get one even with a lower centre height but with the right size of quill, machine of the base and make a new base for it.

It would need some nice fitting to get the centre height smack on. I think I would be looking for way to drill and ream it from the head providing that is ok and pointing dead straight down the bed.

I have an old 4 or 5" tailstock of a well know german plain lathe that I scrapped off. Kept in case I ever needed to make a larger dividing head. Not an ideal candidate but could be done fairly reasonably.

John

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I tried the slick tight on one joint. It's an amazing lubricant. The female part went on so far I was concerned about something stripping but it still tightened solid eventually.

The brush built into the lid would be more suitable for much larger fittings - say 1" od pipe or more.

The regulator on the compressor is diecast so don't think I will be using it there. I'll stick with tape but cut it to 1/4" wide as that should help and any bits over 20um get trapped by the filter from there anyway.

Don't think I will ever buy any titanium coated drills again. As my metal work gear is rather packed away I used my woodwork ones. Not cheap. To refit the filter in the pipe tail on the welder I had to drill the hole out as the serrated part has been cut off. Brass and even extreme pressure wouldn't cause the drill to cut. The hole was a bit too shallow really and as I had the fitting off I managed to get my hands to my metal work ones - woosh I nearly drilled too far. The drill even grabbed in the brass. I had wondered if it was some sort of bizarre material.

John

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I don't think I even suggested machining before welding but anyway I made a posting a little while ago pointing out the problems with producing stress free castings.

It's vanished into the aether. Hope it wasn't because I gave a clue about where that rotary table casting came from and pointed out 2 suppliers that for me have been ok but it can take years to find out if they are really ok.

Also mentioned the time Rolls Royce left engine blocks lying about - lathe manufacturer's castings too. Plus some of the problems of stress relieving things via heat.

John

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Tantung G can be bought directly from the suppliers but I don't know what the prices are like. Interesting fact. Hardness wise if like some grades of stellite it might be a touch less than HSS even M2 yet wears better and can cut at higher speeds.

John

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You might like to look at this Jon. I looked because I had a vague memory that there isn't that much difference in hardness.

**LINK**

I have forked out for M42 and as far as need for sharpening I really don't think there is any significant difference. Last time I bought some it came from the USA.

John

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You might find M42 is available from Cromwell Jon but their toolbit section is a pain to look through. When I have bought from them it's usually from the clearance section. There are usually a number of tool bits types in it.

John

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In the past when castings were being churned out for tooling described in the latest model engineer mag etc some people wouldn't buy them and fabricated instead. Castings need to be cooler rather slowly and left lying around for a long time to remove stress. It can be a big problem on tooling. I have a home made rotary table that came with my miller. The casting had distorted enough to prevent it working correctly. I took a strap off it and the casting cracked. Curiously the top and bottom is still flat so it still works. All I had to do was relieve it in parts to provide sufficient clearance.

The usual method of fabricating was mild steel and arc welding usually using automotive body filler to form the blend between parts and then painting. Arc welding is likely to be the best option as it's relatively easy to get high levels of penetration and a strong joint. The added material also tends to be applied in several runs which will result in a fillet like shape that might also require a bit of machining.

I've never heard of stress being a problem when things are produced like this. Effectively the casting is fabricated and then machined much like the casting would be.

Black bar contains a lot less stress than bright drawn but would require machining before it's welded. As far as I am aware and I have seen a number of example all were done in bright drawn.

John

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I usually buy M35 which is 5% colbalt. You may find m42 but the prices are often artificially high and having used both I'm not that convinced that there is any difference that is worth paying for. M42 is sometimes mentioned as being a sort of cheaper near equivalent to carbide and high red hot cutting strength etc. Personally if that's needed I think it's better to use the real thing maybe even brazed tip carbide at times.

I usually get my M35 form here

**LINK**

If you want red hot then stelite and tantung etc are probably a much better option than M42.

John

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I took notice of a web comment that the 100/127 could only mesh with a 40 tooth plus gear. Suspect it's 48T actually.

I'm fully aware that the web can be a source of duff info.

John

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There is world of difference between some one who knows what they are doing and some one that doesn't Ian.

From what I can gather the frustrations come as the size goes up and the cut size has to go down and cut size expectation can fall short at what many might think is way too soon anyway. Not realising how much space the 2 chucks and a drill can take up is another. Unsuitable cutting tools probably crops up. That's extremely likely if lots of material needs to be removed.

To be honest though I think China is too locked into a certain style of hobby lathe. Maybe it suits some sizes. It's a common problem with all sorts of things at times. The baby lathes to me looked too much low price targeted and I suspect better could be done for similar costs. Always hard to be sure about that though due to margins at both ends and manufacturing process costs. How many they actually make too.

John

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I can't easily copy them but if you have the parts list off the yahoo group change gears run from 34 to 49 and there is another group including the 100/127 that runs from 213 to 221 but part 217 is a pin. That looks to provide the missing gears.

I've only glanced through them quickly but it would make sense to group the extra gears with the 100/127. Maybe the first group provide imperial pitches on a none gearbox lathe.

I might use my 100/127 now. The only catch I can see is loosing the finest feed on 1mm pitch as 25.4tpi is coarser then 32. There may be others but that's not too bad. It also looks like it's worth having the gearbox as changing pitch is pretty simple.

To be honest I sometimes cut close in TPI and then run a metric chaser over it. So far it's been unusual for me to cut metric as the sizes I've needed can be done with a die.

John

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I know Ketan. That's why I asked if the OP had any experience. On the other hand the person I mentioned was a more than usually well qualified graduate electronics engineer so his problems were not down to lack of intelligence just a complete and utter unawareness of what a lathe of that size, power and weight can be expected to do.

John

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As far as I am concerned you are asking a rather difficult question. A friend asked me about lathes so we went and looked at some. He wanted small. I warned him about the problems but suggested a mini lathe as being a minimum. He went away and had weight concerns like many have - in his case a pretty silly one. The shed floor. If it was that bad he wouldn't be able to walk around in it. Anyway he bought a baby lathe - same as  C0 only different make that looks a little different but was essentially the same. He then went rather quiet for some time. About 6 months later he came up and said he had no idea what it was suitable for - maybe turning plastics.

One thing I'm curious about is why not maybe 40kg ? Also do you have any machining experience?

I'm also inclined to think any lathe is better than no lathe.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 19/01/2017 19:32:19