Member postings for Ajohnw

That might be Paypal Chris and probably is.

I had a problem with Arc too some time ago with a Lloyds debit card. They had changed the way the transfer was handled - effectively delayed from what I could find out about it.

This was rather a long time ago.

John

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What pitch is the lead screw. If you don't know measure it. Or maybe some one will know if you mention the make of the lathe and if it's metric or imperial.

John

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If your lead screw is 8 tpi and you want to cut 8 tpi

1/8 x 8 = 1

1/8 x 8 = 1

so any 2 gears with the same tooth count will do it.

I'd better add that the idler in between can have any number of teeth.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/10/2015 19:49:51

This another way of looking at the problem but they give the example in metric. No matter the number used has to produce 2 gears you have.

Problem with 11 tpi is that the pitch is 0.0909090909090909....................... so to get a whole number it has to multiplied by some factor of 11. Say 44

1/11 * 44 = 4

assuming you have an 8 tpi lead screw

1/8*44=5.5

So you need gears that 4 and 5.5 divide into. So multiply some number that gets rid of the 1/2 tooth and gives a tooth count to match what you have or need to buy. Any even number will get rid of the half so say 6

4*6=24

5.5*6=33

Might have problems with 33 so multiply both by 2 so 48t and 66t. Or multiply by any number that results in whole number.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/10/2015 19:37:58

Edited By John W1 on 17/10/2015 19:41:50

There is one on lathes.co.uk. 2 in fact. One for lathes without a gearbox and another for ones with. There is only one other I am aware of but it's for metric threads.

They might not suite your needs though. They both work on the basis of entering the gears you have about you and then the thread pitch that you want to cut and they will calculate the nearest you can get. I vaguely remember some quirks that were fixed by playing with the accuracy needed entry but might be thinking about some other software,

There is a book on the archive that goes through how gears for a specific thread are calculated. It's here and you can download a pdf, or djvu if you click on show all formats.

**LINK**

John

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I recollect that ordinary electricity meters gain for the supplier when the power factor is out.

We just had one with 4g in it fitted ???????????? I wonder if that one is better or worse from the user end.

John

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If he wants to then can do what ever with it. When I have had a problem with one I find some one with a surface grinder as I know that I will have problems keeping it flat. I could blue it against a surface plate too.

Neil's advice - the nut is set it when the it's as close as it can be to the mounting of the lead screw and assumes the lead screw can bend if there is any angular error when it's further away. It sound and looks like it was set up more or less as I mentioned so that it can track the lead screw moving up and down or rotating slightly as needed. That way does assume that the round bit sticking out of the nut is a decent fit in the hole it goes into. Or maybe it's part set via screws.

The backlash adjustment looks like the usual gash across the nut leaving a short length of thread that can be crunched up against the longer length - but the screws don't seem to be there. They do this on Pulta's but even then it has the same problem - the length that can be moved about is much shorter than the other so wears away rather quickly if used. My own view is that say there is 1/3 of a turn back lash then 1/3 of the nut has worn away less any clearance that was there - time to thing about a new nut. But it will still work with 1/3 of a turn back lash. it will with 1/2 a turn too, even more. Most people who have used machines much take out back lash when they make adjustments without even thinking about it. In fact I use over a turn to do that even though none of my machines have more than 1/10 of a turn back lash.

John

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If some one wants to hire something big I would suggest a flat bed. That way visibility is good and if the item isn't strapped down enough it can be watched as it comes off rather than going through the side of whatever it is.

Heating cost over the house in my case = zero but I haven't got a lot of space.

People with an attached garage would probably find it cheaper to extend the central heating and add a radiator valve - one of the early wax stat types from what I have heard about some of the newer ones.

John

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I would suggest you leave the gib strip alone.

There is no saying what type of abrasive is in a metal polish. The one in CIF, Ajax, Vim etc is probably softer and mixing oil in to it is important.

If you have tightened the feed nut fixings up so that it can't go up and down or rotate that will probably cause tight spots because the feed screw is unlikely to be exactly aligned with it - that is why they aren't fixed rigidly in place. The nut needs to be able to rotate and move up and down slightly.

If you lap by moving the slide back and forth the ends will receive less wear than the middle as the middle is in contact all of the time so steps have to be taken to even it out.

John

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It makes sense not to tighten the nut to a point where it can't be tightened any more as that might lead to the cutter rotating too much when it fully self tightens which would wear the collets out.

I don't use them at home but elsewhere have never had the slightest problem with one.

I did buy a 3 morse one to use at home but a few days later my Dore Westbury turned up and that needs 2 morse. It's still around. I should have sold it early on as I suspect there would be little interest now.

John

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If you have cat C1 on your licence you can drive a vehicle up to 7.5 tonne. Otherwise I think it's 3.5. They are classed as medium sized vehicles. HGV's are something else again, the truck part might weigh more than 7.5 tonne with a laden trailer on the back of it.

Quick google

**LINK**

I think most UK full driving licenses have C1 E on it.

If you do hire one you might find air brakes a little different. It seems some do.

John

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ER was invented for tool holding. Some feel earlier designs that have a flat end and a short projection are better. Schaublin and others.

The whole idea of an autolock chuck is that the cutter rotating finally tightens the collet by forcing the collet down into the cone on the nut. In fact I have one where the collet wont tighten via the nut. It doesn't have any need to.

LOL Not put very well. If a collet is put into an autolock chuck and the nut fully tightened the collet will still be loose. The idea is to put the cutter in the collet, fit and nip the nut up. There is no need to tighten it excessively as the cutting forces with self tighten it. Some sense is needed as to how much of the cutter needs to project out of the back of the collet. There will probably be some about where the collet can be tightened via the nut so that plain shank cutters can be used in it.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 17/10/2015 09:46:37

Edited By John W1 on 17/10/2015 09:55:02

The reason I suggested you used the technique outlined on the Taig pages Brian is that you would be unlikely to do the lathe any harm. Seems to have been a waste of time suggesting it - several times.

The feed screw nut should be free to move up and down and rotate but be well located in other respects. If not it will probably make your problem worse.

The time to adjust the back lash is when it's a problem and with that style of adjustment it would be an indication that it's time to get a replacement nut as the improvement wont last for long.

The problem with trying to do something with rough gib strips is that they have to be flat and attempts at improving the surface are likely to introduce a curve.

John

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The Ikea wall / clamp on light is LED. I prefer to buy LED lighting from Ikea because unlike some the don't offer high colour temperature led lighting. Most of it is 2,700K. Sweden is always cautious and I feel they are right to do that in this area because of the amount of blue that needs to be added.

John

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I haven't had to touch mine so far and it's still on angular contact and came with a spare set.

I haven't seen the nut arrangement and the drawings are tucked away. I would have thought that it should be possible to lock it. If you thread lock it any future adjustment is going to be a bit tricky. If you greased the bearings you will probably find that they need adjusting after it's been used for a while, even a short period.

Mine is a MK1. No spring return on the quill - I'm glad to say. I've yet to hear of any one who is dissatisfied with a DW other than the person I bought it off - end milling with a blunt slot drill in a totally inadequate vice with the slides set way too loose.

Boxford use an interesting method of locking the nut on their spindle bearing adjustment. 2 drilled and tapped holes with grub screws in them. These press on some disks of soft metal against the spindle thread. Might well be white metal but I managed to loose one so replaced it with soft solder. I just drilled a suitable sized hole in some mdf and cast the disc in it then flattened the end and fitted it. The nice thing about this way is that the nut doesn't move when it's locked in position. It can with a split nut depending on the thread clearance when it's adjusted.

If you need to know what should be there I could dig out the drawings and photo the bits for you if needed. Just ask. It would have to be tomorrow.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 16/10/2015 20:31:19

There are these icons above the area where replies etc are typed out and lo hover the cursor over them and what they do pops up. Click one if it's the right one and it actually allows you to do it, links can be pasted in.

John

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I don't get it either KWIL. We have one strip light with a starter that probably got fitted in the 70's or even earlier and still no problems with it. Actually I have never replaced a tube in that one but it's only turned on and off a couple of times a day. The others are on a lot of the time. My workshop one virtually all day as there is no natural light. My PC is there too.

Perhaps the answer to avoid buying off DIY stores or ebay. Find an electrical wholesaler. If an electrician fits something it's expected to last.

Things are "improving". I fitted a D light into a bathroom. The first tube lasted a very long time, it came in the light. The replacement lasted maybe 18 months. I complained when I replace that one around 3 years ago. So far so good.

One thing to watch I fitted 2 in another bathroom - these D lights take a fair old current spike when they are turned on. One can stop the other from firing up correctly. House probably rewired by the MEB and min sized lighting wire used.

John

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The gib strips can be turned end over end with the dimples on the same side Brian and on some lathes that does matter.

The top of the male dovetail wont be in contact with the other part - they run on the angled parts and the flats at the side.

John

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I had been using rather ancient starterless fluorescent strip lights. I'd guess the lighting units were installed in the 70's. One definitely was, another I bought used from a scrap yard. The starterless ones are what factories usually fit and last for ages. Tubes may last several years. Reasonable quality ones definitely do. I would say I have fitted 3 maybe 4 over 23 years. For some reason it seems these can only usually be bought from electrical wholesalers, The sort electricians use. They take the larger diameter tubes.

More recently as i am interested in photography and sometime post shots that will be viewed by rather critical people I have changed my workshop lighting to the colour temperature I should be using. The units have electronic ballasts. No idea how long etc these will last but no problems so far over maybe 2 years.

I decided to try these lights from Ikea for machine lighting. Nice even pool and no need for them to be close to the work. The can be clamped to a shelf or wall fixed. They come with 2 bases.

Trouble with the new main lighting - mix it with flash and what looks like rust / corrosion appears on some bright shiny bits. Might be something to do with using a Nikon V2 too. On the other hand it's handy and compact.

Yes the is a sink under one end of the lathe. Big belfast type too, circa 1911.

John

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I've used the cheap pressed steel interchangeable end ones for circlips bigger than that. These are a lot stronger.

I'm worried, I can't remember what I used these on but I do remember that it took a fair amount of force on the handles. This slow going sort out and tidy up must be doing my head in.

The other thing I have done in the past is modify the ends of a pair of long nosed pliers. Ok for internal ones but a pain for external. Can't say as I would recommend it.

Another source but I doubt if there is much difference really. Be interesting to know if the od of the ends is any different.

**LINK**

Even late in the day orders arrive next morning.

John

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