Member postings for mechman48

+1 for ega reply. check your lathe alignment across the shears you may have a slight twist in your lathe bed. Lathes can be out of level lengthwise without being detrimental ( think of ships machine shop ) but if not level from front to rear shear at headstock / tailstock then there will be a liability to turn tapered shaft.

George

I'm afraid it has become a necessary evil nowadays. What annoys me is the amount of ads that plague the screen when you're trying to text, or even Google something. I'd love to know how to circumvent the ads without having to pay for 'no ads premium' service. I did read somewhere, a long time ago, how it could be done but as said, a long time ago, so I guess we have to put up with them.

George.

+1... I have done the same with my vice.

George.

'The cheap "brake cylinder hones" on e-bay will do, probably have to be the two stone one on that 3/4" bore.'

+1, Exactly what I have, & used on my !0V, works a treat & not expensive.

George.

Your link...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAKPhE9HisI&t=59s

brings up ' No results found'

George.

There shouldn't be a problem shortening drills;if they are carbon steel drills they would make nice stub drills which will have more rigidity, HSS will make decent spotting drills but you wouldn't need many, 2,3,,4 6 mm would suffice for most needs. One thing to ensure is that you maintain the correct tip angle 118* & equal length cutting lips otherwise you will drill oversize holes.

George.

I have a set of these fitted on my mill; not had any probs with them since fitting over 6 years ago, batteries last quite well too, worth considering.

**LINK**

George.

I have a similar set on my mill X & Y axis from another well used model engineering supplier; they power off automatically & retain the last reading when switched on, never had any probs to date, just replaced batteries last month both of which have been in use since last July/Aug.

George.

FWIW.. Have a look at 'Ades workshop' he has done the same on his new mill to drive the X,Y,& Z axis using stepper motors. Elektronikery is way beyond me but he made it look so simple ..

(3) ADES WORKSHOP - YouTube

George.

I have collected over the past few years 3 round boiled sweet tins; one ea. for brass / cast iron / aluminium filings that on occasions I have used to mix with 2 part epoxy resin to fill blow holes & the like. Cast iron filings work particularly well leaving a barely discernable difference. As mentioned brass can vary in shade so are visible in most cases. Larger brass chippings can be used to temper / blue small items... see Clickspring's site where he shows an example of bluing tiny screws. I have used Aluminium too but that shows a difference on shading too, more like a 'chilled' spot as in Cast iron,again due to different grades, they all do the job & if you're painting afterwards, who's to know?

George.

+1 for cling film; also try clear auto laquer/ hair spray, if SWMBO will let you use hers, can be easily removed using acetone ( nail polish remover ).

George.

I would try jewellers rouge; but preferably get new glasses you can't afford to mess about with your eyesight especially for the likes of we modellers where we need the best we can have. I have just bought 2 new pair of varifocals as my recent eye test showed a deterioration & the need for new lenses; not cheap!

George.

I got one from DPD yesterday.. the usual,, DPD will redeliver today as long as I pay £2.99 fee via the link, yeah like I'm going to fall for that one ..yet another oldie again!

George.

I do the same for my Warco WM16 mill; there are no oil points in this either. I clean the ways the apply oil, this tends to 'self level' itself under the ways, then I work the 'X &' Y' axis to effectively 'screed' the oil along the ways. As for the 'X' axis leadscrew I use an extended spout oil can i.e. attach a long length of 4 mm plastic tubing on to the spout to reach under the table & a couple of squirts of oil onto the thread in front of the nut will ensure lubrication.

George.

Super job David; any advice on how you prepped the aluminium pror to painting... was the paint rattle can or mini spray gun ?

George.

I made a rear tool post from the Hemmingway kit, it works well but you have to be aware that the tapered side doesn't leave much room for centre height adjustment. I reverted to the horizontal slot side, using another type of holder placed upside down & run the lathe in reverse, bolted on chuck I must add, on a Warco WM250.

It has now been relegated to 'for use later; maybe' as most of the small stuff I part off can be done easily with front holder under power / hand feed without any concerns.

Casting kit...

Test cuts...

Look in my album 'Rear tool post' for more pics.

George

Erratum.. '& run the lathe in reverse', should read 'run in normal rotation'

Edited By mechman48 on 22/04/2021 12:01:53

Probably the best way to go, have drilled out studs etc in similar fashion. I do have spiral flute /spiral point taps but didn't want to risk snapping these, as said it's probably 'cause the holder is case hardened & I was a bit over exhuberant with the tap, one of those instances when you know it's going to happen but seem powerless to stop giving it that 'bit extra' & all I wanted was to put a couple of extra threads into the holder.

I'll let the citric acid do it's stuff untill I get the Alum then try that; more a case of lets see what happens, it's not that I 'need' the holder as I've got 18 in all with various tools set up.

George.

Thanks for the tip Bob, have done this method waaaaay back in the past & remember seeing the carbide drill glowing , have also used carbide tap removal drills as in pic..

**LINK**

**LINK**.

Both exhorbitant price; for the price of one of the Walton extractors I can buy a new toollholder. Thanks again.

George.

Having a loose adjustment screw on one of my Dickson tool holders I decided to clean out the thread & tap a deeper thread, I used a set of 5 mm HSS taps to start the process as there only seemed to be aprrox 3 threads of engagement so tapping deeper was a logical progression.

I only managed to get a turn on the 2nd tap when guess what ! yeah there is a broken tap in the hole, admittedly it''s not the first time I've broken a tap but it's annoying when its an expensive HSS one. I poured a few drops of some citric acid pickling solution into the hole & left it overnight, this morning it looks as though there is some reaction with the tap as it has started turning black, question is; has any one used this method of removing broken taps?. I don't have access to an EDM machine nor have the right size solid carbide drill ( expensive ).

Having looked back through previous posts I came upon the above article describing the use of Alum so have ordered a sachet ( 100 gms ) via link & will try that, so the next questions are..

What ration of alum powder to water is best ?.

How often does it need to be heated ?

Has /does Citric acid work as well ?

Any other information would be very much appreciated.

TIA

George.