Member postings for mechman48

Can you not use / make a tapered drift to punch through the drain hole, this will form a run off gully around the drain & help draw the suds to the drain tube. Some people have tilted the lathe slightly to effect a run down to the drain tube. I wouldn't worry about leveling the lathe too much, as long as the bed is NOT twisted, take a look at marine engine rooms, the larger ships have machine shops with a lathe in, they couldn't be called exactly level.

George.

Cutting fluid will certainly help. the trouble witl most stainless steel of unknown grade; & known grades too is it work hardens very quickly as most of us have found out at some time or other. Using cobalt drills do help & carbide drills will help too but you've got sharpen those to a proper cutting angle as per normal drills..118*.. using a 'green wheel'. I've tried a similar process with stainless frames for my latest project with 3mm drills.. not a cat in hells chance! I reverted to making them out of aluminium!

You've also got to keep a constant pressure on the drill, preferably using drill/mill machine as you rarely can keep up the pressure with a hand drill, you could well end up breaking the drill trying to keep alignment square, I have a few times & as said as soon as you start to drill.. boom! the job work hardens if you don't get under the 'skin'. I have purchased a set of three fluted cobalt drills from 'Banggood' usual disclaimer, which claim to be specifically for stainless & other hard alloys.. yet to be tried & proven!. It may be a case of having to remove your beam & setting it up securely to maintain constant pressure. I'm sure other members will offer their advice , as I type. good luck.

George.

Have a look in my album 'X axis drive' I've used a 12v two speed wiper motor, a PWM with speed controller from eBay, & a spare 1/4 drive universal joint + spare sockets modified to be spring loaded; crude but it works fine for me.

George.

I had written a long spiel about my garage insulation but having moved off write up to get pics, I lost it all... another pain in the arse with this forum format... this reply dialogue box won't keep anything typed, I have to copy & paste into word docx & save, have to do the same to reprint back into box.. enough of the gripes. A couple of pics to show the basic insulation set up..

Insulated garage door..

Access door..

I think you answered the question yourself... 'spring back'. did you do a couple of spring passes at 0.594". Did you take out any backlash from the crosslide before adding the final cuts, it's best to creep up on final cuts by taking 1/2 of what you think you need. Did you not remove the alluminium build up from the tip prior to final cut, all contribute to that bit 'extra' on sizes.

George.

Same thoughts, possibly mortar sighting - elevating & traversing but don't see any scales.

George.

+2 , still going well after 4 years; have spread & puckered up in a couple of places so will trim.. eventually.

George.

Yesterday actually; was getting on with my beam engine but it was one of 'those days' nowt was going right so put it back on the back burner,instead decided to modify my home made 'pusher tool', put one bearing at 90* to other..

George.

Boltbase on eBay have a good variety.& will post from UK, usualdisclaimer applies.

George.

I have a Dickson clone on my WM250V-F, a Bison + 18 holders all set with various tools, I have found these QCTP more than suitable for my needs. I still have the original 4 way block put to one side available for use as & when, but so far never needed. the majority of holders were purchased from RDG, usual disclaimer, at either Halifax MEW exhib' or Doncaster exhib; some have a M ( or inverted W ) stamped on but in all cases they all fit & I wouldn't change anything now.

George.

erratum ..Halifax should read Harrogate.

Edited By mechman48 on 30/10/2020 11:49:21

Re. my previous post ...My shear tool...

Only used on trial DoC .001-2" haven't got pic of 'angel hair' cuttings, will arrange something later although there are plenty on YouTube.No need for centre height setting as cutting edge tangential to work & can be adjusted up/down to suit as edge wears.

George.

edited by george... typo's.

Edited By mechman48 on 28/10/2020 16:35:51

Tried opening page... won't open says too many redirects... is there another link I could try ?

George.

Have a look here..

**LINK**

I made one last year based on the above; works nice giving a fine finish in trials. I'll take a pic of mine later & post.

George.

Me too !. SWMBO wouldn't have a clue...

George.

What a load of b******s... just another platform being PC!. The PC brigade should get out & find a proper job.Too much of it.

George.

I would go for # 2 as the easiest route. My S50 had similar issues with the valve chest; one side is thicker than the other by, IIRC 1/32 - .030" it looks odd/ offset but that is the finished dimensions, the thinner side goes to the port face so watch out for that.

George.

Now you've got the spare, how about 'making a spare' that is if you have means to cut the spline. Failing that; order another as 'spare for the spare'. First off though, what caused it to shatter; rectify that or you may end up with the same situation?.

George.

Superb as usual Mal; itching to see how you work the breech block.

George.

Have scanned pages from Tubal Cains 'Model Engineers Handbook edition 2' if it's of any help.

George

Edited By mechman48 on 24/10/2020 16:48:00

+ 1 Applaud that man! well said Ian.

George.