Member postings for stevef53

Hi guys. Thanks for the help. I did wonder if one of the windings was reversed as being the cause of the roughness. I will be selling this unit on an auction site, and will mark it spares or repair with the appropriate lessons taken from your good selves as to what the purchaser should check as part of any repair. I'm not going to spend any more time on this myself. Thanks for your help getting me to this point.

Hi Everyone. Thanks to you all for your help. I wired it up as suggested, using my spare VFD. I tried to do a "proper" job of wiring up the VFD, because i have been keeping it for another project. I then connected it to the coolant pump, having identified the windings as you showed me. I had to reprogram the VFD from its previous installation, and when i pressed run and increased the run frequency, it ran! success!. The motor sounded a bit rough, but it hasn't run in probably 30 years or so, and it needs some TLC. I have decided, I am not going to be the one giving this TLC, as i have more deserving projects. This will go on an auction site i have heard of for sale to someone who can give it a good home.

BTW AJAX, you are right, this is a possibly a Colchester Pump, as the manufacturer is/was based there. I guess they supplied both machine tool manufacturers at some point. If i were going to keep it the capacitor solution would probably have been my choice. The VFD is going to power a Deckel single point grinder i bought some time ago.It has a dual voltage motor so this will come in handy. Thanks again everyone!

thanks everyone. Initially this will be to test whether it is worth keeping. if i get beyond that i will worry about power and direction of the unit. I will keep you posted. Thanks again.

Hi Noel,

Thanks for this. don't worry i will earth everything! having made it this far through life, crispy critters in my workshop isn't on my to do list!

The VFD BTW is a spare left over from my previous lathe. If the motor is still functional, i will probably sell it on. Too many other projects!

Hi Pete,

Thanks for the prompt response. it makes sense now. so if i rewire the terminals delta, as you suggest, then the input power leads red white and blue should be wired respectively to the terminals 2,3,4 leaving 1 with no connections. Is that right? Forgive my obtuseness, but i do find 3 phase a little scary.

hello everyone. I would very much appreciate some help in wiring up this coolant motor so i can find out whether its still functional. It came as an original part of a Harrison 11 inch lathe, in what was a complete coolant unit. The unit had obviously not been used for years, had long since dried up, and the tank is pretty rusted. The motor was covered in orange dust, ( a dried algae or some such?) but once cleaned, it rotates freely. i opened the motor cover intending to wire up a VFD to it, but can't be sure how its wired.The motor label indicated 220/380V, i.e. i assumed its dual voltage, and my VFD is 220V 3ph. As you can see from the photo, there appear to be 3 wires into the motor which i assume to be the three poles. they appear to have a common terminal (1). the three poles are wired to 2,3,4 i guess. The incoming power leads ( red white and blue) are wired to 2,3,4. Would i be correct in assuming that i wire the VFD into terminals 2,3,4?.

I will of courser earth the body of the pump into the VFD. Having removed the pump from the lathe it has no grounding currently.

Many Thanks for your help!

Another dodgy dealer. i was looking for a sine bar on eBay. Check out the super cheap mitutoyo offer for £8+pp. Seller has no selling history, no returns allowed, a price about one tenth of what you would expect to pay for the item, and other items from the same seller ALL mitutoyo and ALL super cheap.Yeah right.

Its a shame because i buy and sell on eBay, usually get good deals from good people and think it performs a useful service. Sure they make money, but allowing this sort of thing to persist will deter people from using it, and that won't help us folk trying to get good equipment at reasonable cost.

Hi Benjamin, I may be able to help. I have sent you a PM. Cheers Steve

Hi Brian,

Sorry for the delay in response. At the moment i am in the middle of a build of a 3 1/2 inch Jubilee loco to the Martin Evans design. The guys at the club persuaded me to take it on when one of the members brought in a pair of frames, horn blocks etc. part assembled. I have taken it on mostly to learn the skills needed to machine the small parts that make up the beast, rather than a desire to sit behind a live steam loco. When I've finished it, i may well sell it.

I have also recently purchased a Harrison 11 inch lathe, having traded up from a Boxford Model A. Its turning out to be needing a bit of fettling, which i really enjoy, and i think it will be a good little machine when I've got it up to scratch. I've also got a 1943 Bridgeport which i have got going and which i will one day convert to CNC. Not for any reason other than to learn. I learn loads from the guys at the TSMEE and i can see there's much to be gained from many on this forum.

Hi everyone. Ive been watching this site for years and have learned a lot from the members and contributors here. I thought it was about time I made myself known to everyone!

i am not an engineer by training ( actually a Chemist once upon a time) but have always wanted to make things in metal. Retirement has given me the time to practice.

I'm slowly improving in the quality of the things i do -from a low base- and appreciate being able to use the benchmarks of what can be done as demonstrated by some of the skilled members on here. The breadth of knowledge and experience is very impressive. I hope i can make a contribution to that in time. Thanks!

Hi Tony,

You probably fixed this already, but if not try The engineers emporium (www.theengineersemporium.co.uk) as they are breaking bridgeports. I got bits from hardinge, but found them expensive.

cheers

Steve