Member postings for Rufus Roughcut

Hi Andrew

I have the lathe vertical slide and found as you the size limitation an issue so went for a small Warco mill which is not unlike the Siege proposed by Ron L, yes it was £100s of pounds but I've made my money back by it's repair cost and new tooling cost saving use over the years, they also make for very accurate dill press and if your not in great hurry to make an item, lots of small cuts is the same as a few big cuts which if something goes wrong its a small problem not a big one.

Try a friends and judge for your self which best suits your needs.

It's worth noting I've also made some large items for repairing equipment at work on both ML10 and Warco mill as others have said rigidity of tooling and work piece are the key.

Barry

Hi DMB

It also says Autorised reseller

Hi Stevegtr

Some of the cutting tip suppliers at model eng shows are and may be inclined to trade you those for some of a more appropriate size (believe me what ain't good for you is great for a another) cleaned up a bit with WD and a cloth good as new will swap for new.

£5.00 useless to you tip swapped for a £3.50 useful to you tip. supplier makes £1.00 -£1.50, you get tips to fit without the cost of make or buy a holder. Win Win

Hi Jeremy

I Have Old ML10 to and have used all kinds of random make Chucks all with no real issues, it's really your cost and requirements.

I now have a small micro 0-3mm chuck from (Arceuro) for fine work, a 1.5-10mm from (second hand) for assorted uses, a 3-16mm (Jacobs secondhand) for the bigger drill/mills and a 3-20mm from (second hand) for large hole which i've found invaluable for use with holding Rota Brooch cutters for up to 70mm hole cutters for bigger bore projects where the brooches leave a valuable reusable core piece for other projects.

all of these are MT2 to suit both tail and head stocks which also match my Drill Press and small milling machine,

the advantage of a selection is that you can leave tooling chucked for multi manufacture parts so you can swap the chuck rather than the tool each repeat.

BAryy

Hi Don't know if its possible, but if your ML10 is on raising blocks you could fit a 127T gear on the leadscrew and save all the 63 - 63 etc set up I'll try find the chart I had and add it here.

Our New apprentice was baffled when fractions were mentioned, so we bought him a digital caliper with some on, drives him mad 3/256 ths insanity, on working in dimensions try ordering some think 7 1/2" and 2 mm (21.05 cm) long and see how far that goes.

Also for imperial 1/4" or 0.25 or 250/1000 what your preference? or see if there is a drill 0.635 cm I think the latter would never be on stock and not available to order either.

Hi If you opt for Alu, mark the larger gear's 0 start or tooth 1 mount this on an appropriate bolt / axle place the second smaller gear and glue together so both 0 points are correct then remove axle / bolt, then drill and tap right through both gears either side of the center hole glue an appropriate size machine screw right through both gears, cut off the excess neatly each side of gear cluster and Roberts your uncle.

Rgards

Rufus

Hi chaps it's worth noting if you only won't 10 small bolts then pay show supplier prices but you should know that most fastener supply companies do sell small quantities of to anyone and would be considerably cheaper than the show prices irrespective of thread form and also they aren't cheap if you have to travel half the length of the country and pay £10 to get in to get 10 M3 or BA or 40tpi Modeng and the list goes on, or why not group purchase and by 500 to share which would be super cheap

Rufus

Hi Gents

If CNC has to be considered against manual then surely the thickness of glasses and unsteadiness of the hands of the fabricator should also get greater consideration, lets also go the hole hog and assess based on the current financial means of the maker, how ludicrous, we should n,t penalise against a young engineer if all his equipment belongs to his grandpa, if we are to measure our own skill and abilities on the views of others then we are not model engineers, we are just people who can achieve the best copy of some other engineers work which makes us all fraudsters, there are those who feel we should still be warring with stones and forget the bronze/iron ages ever existed. I personally don't care what someone would judge my work as or my means of achieving the outcome, in reality how many have modified equipment, used a different material and or undertaken dangerous feats of the electro-mechanical occult provide ourselves a solution to a problem.

e.g. if the water tank is meant to brass and painted to conceal it then if you had sheets and sheets of stainless why then would you buy brass, just to conform the ideals of some judge who then could mark you down for not using the correct materials.

perhaps the judge can not tig weld and nor could the original designer and the original pattern was a bodge job of cheap materials laid about the shed I mean to say I personally don't know of any old locos which we aim to copy having had cast aluminium saddles or huge brass or gunmetal smoke boxes or such.

Rufus

Hi Mike

Sorry to see you've had no response yet, however an lube is better than no lube at all, colours I've seen green, silver grey and even a couple of blues so maybe they were colour requests when purchased originally, I have used various oils and greases with in mind that the recommended may really have been a manufacturers choice for commercial enhancement as after sales, lubrications have become far more significant nowadays and manufactured to higher specifications than previously so don't feel pressure to buy the expensive as per branded stuff.

as an e.g.. Mobil fully synthetic for engine £10..00 per ltr, Tesco same as £4..50 per ltr. and before you say are but. would you expect a major refinery company like mobil to have two process plants one producing a cheaper version just for tesco, answer NO what happens is tesco say to mobil we'll buy 60 Million ltrs from you in our packaging for £3.00 per ltr as a guaranteed sale like they do with fuels

Hi Gents

Recently aimed to make a replacement 5 tpi worm shaft for a mini cultivator on myford ML7/ ML10 without gearbox as the lead screw is 8 tpi has anyone achieved less than 8tpi lefthand worm shaft on these or could anyone offer suggestions

Rufus

Hi Tractorman

Not wishing to offend but caravan parts and trailer parts are good solutions, for instance what wife living in caravan near a view and you staying there.

Danah!

Rufus

Hi Gents

Ditto as Neil says:

(+1 to what Paul says - if a bike unsticks, it goes forwards in a straight line, it doesn't fly outwards.

Nei

However the real question is acts in relation to what !!!!!!!

If Gravity, the curvature of the earth and how start is a straight line.

Having had gravel rash a couple of times i have discovered that oh! shit is no fix to angular seperation.

Rufus

Hi Mathew

Plastics will help you become delicate with the finer cuts and less aggressive with deeper ones and on the latter is less likely to damage your tool, lathe or you if you cut in to deep

Hi Michael

I see the different pitches and DPs of gears can be mixed without direct meshing throughout a train by use of the stubs, out of sad interest I have a T104 like the one on the lead screw which meshes fine with the myford gears but have absolutely no idea what use it may be, along with a small box of similar rogue number tooth gears, it's also worth saying I do check mine against the myfords and my hobs before running them together I'm not quite that rough yet.

Great concept though, I'm getting tempted to get my spare ML10 out and play

Rufus

Hi John

Don't know what you intend parting, although I've never put catcher tubs under part offs, mine tend to stay between the parting tool and the tail stock centre at the point of break, but then I go steady when the cutting tone drops just prior to break off.

Don't forget you may not be able to wind your cuts in as vigorously as you did with the larger machines.

enjoy

Hi Garry

Well cleared Shaun

In a former life I did lots of hydraulic as a norm 1.5 x wp (hydrostatic at various temperatures) testing on hp steam lines on power stations, refineries etc, however over the years some less than safe activities involving pneumatic testing world wide has caused a great deal of fear amongst companies, due to the explosive forces should ruptures occur, I myself have witnessed poorly methodized companies have some quite catastrophic equipment failures where only by the grace of god no serious injuries or fatalities have resulted, however a search on the net will show you that not all companies are so lucky and I'm sure your aware of ballistics and it's affects on people, the US military tent to undertake tests in with the vessel in large tank of water to limit the shock wave when failures occur.

The fittings, gauges and appropriate rated hoses can be attained from hydraulic suppliers who would probably make you up test rig which would be more than adequate for self testing, however the cert is a bit more complexed and would need to be witnessed by a competent person familiar with testing processes and acceptable outcomes and usage of test item.

Hi All

Pleased to see I created a bit of fuss of exactness, has anyone tried jacking up a Myford 7 and extending the quadrant (non gearbox version) and fitting a 256T to the lead screw?

Pleased to see that even the professors and computers are rounded to best guesses exactness.

Ed, Did you achieve the thread and was it significantly cheaper than the use of the correct Tap/Die

Happy new year

Rufus

Hi Ed

Hope this is of use

Hope these serve many

Rufus

Hi Gavin

A rule of thumb for the novice in that round stock is in most cases not round, you will need to make is round, I found when starting out that using stock slightly larger than the required end result was the best start point and before any lateral machining insert the rod as far in the chuck as you can conceivably get it leaving a bit sticking out and centre drill with tail stock drill un-chuck and repeat at the other end you can now centre the work piece between the chuck and tail stock centre and machine a length from the tail stock end long enough to fit in the chuck if the stock piece is long un-ckuck it flip it round and repeat, using many light cuts will give many practice opportunities to centre and round a piece of stock and you will get a better view and feel of how oval round stock is and then you can proceed to cut down the stocks length with more confidence.

Do you have an ML7 Manual, if not please e-mail and I'll send you one ( [email protected])

Rufus