Member postings for John MC

Don't forget Ebay, lots on there. What I like about the 'bay for this sort of thing is that the price you see is the price you pay. If postage is to be paid its there, no finding out as you wade through the order process, likewise with VAT.

Thinking some more over the question of stops. I believe that electrical switches that limit the overall length of feed are important. I would suggest that a quite considerable the torque is applied to the lead screw. If it was not disengaged before the limit of travel is reached then some damage will be done. Something may "give" in the motor/gearbox, worse still damage to the lead screw and nut. Even worse still the work table on these very lightweight machines could be twisted.

With no limit switches it would only take a momentary distraction , then the damage is done!

John

I have two vertical mills, similar in size, one tilts, t'other doesn't. If one had to go it would be the fixed head one. The tilt facility is infrequently used but when needed it is very useful. Rigidity isn't compromised as it might be by using a tilting vice, for instance. I really cannot see any objection to using the tilt facility when needed.

One thing I would look for in a tilting head is where the clamping bolts are. Ideally they should be well spaced away from the axis of tilt to avoid the problems that Bridgeports are notorious for, heads moving under heavy cuts. This happens because the 4 bolts clamping the head are too close together and there is a lot of mass (motor, speed control, etc) along way from the axis of tilt.

John

My advice here would be to use the flywheel thats available, it may well be OK. If not then try again with the size recommended.

I was once involved in IC engine design, one engine, a diesel of about half a litre swept volume had a flywheel about one tenth of what was recommended, it ran fine, it could idle at 500rpm and, much to everyone's astonishment rev to 7000rpm while still making useful power! 5500rpm was the designed maximum rpm.

John

A good reason why videos of this nature should be peer reviewed before put on the 'net! Not going to happen though.

I've done similar occasionally, difference being I made a tool post clamp for the angle grinder. Recently reduced the width of a case hardened gear in a motorcycle gearbox. Also used PPE, something the guy in the video was probably not to bothered about.

And before anyone mentions the evils of grinding dust , I do cover the important bits.

John

Seeing the picture of the hammer/drift brought back many pleasant apprenticeship memories. The one handed operation was useful, and, as Hopper says, it would "lever" out the smaller MT's.

I really wish I "acquired" one all those years ago, too honest I guess!

I'm intrigued by the Chronos offering, I'm going to buy one.

John

Perhaps this thread should be "balanced" with a "how many micrometers" thread. Both can be used with precision,apparently.

John

17 for me of all types, from a medium size sledge down to something so light I don't recall ever using it. Including a ball pein (pane, peen, pien???) hammer I forged myself during my apprenticeship, we spent a few weeks with a proper engineering blacksmith, (not what seems to commonly pass as such these days). I've also just successfully replaced the hide end of my size 1 Thor mallet.

John

Thanks for the replies. I've tried varying the search words, no luck yet.

The Youtube video could be useful.

I've looked on the Maidstone website, couldn't find anything.

Been to the Model Boat Mayhem forum, tried a search but can't get past their anti-spam thing, its a rediculous set up!

John

If I had the space for Versatool cabinets of that style I would have a workshop full!

Reminds me of my time as an apprentice, the milling sections Versatool cabinets were well layed out, each mill had its own complete toolkit, accessories etc. carefully stored. The instructor would check at close of play if everything was back in its place. Anything missing and we would all stay until found. It was a joy to work in that section having all the kit to hand. Excellent instuctor as well.

Unlike the turning section, Versatool cabinets again. Tools, accessories, etc just chucked in anywhere. So frustrating not being able to find a chuck key. We offered to organise the cabinets but were told by the instructor that we were there to learn to turn not to tidy. Hopeless instuctor compared with the rest of the guys that I was lucky enough to work with

Sorry to ramble on!

John

I'm looking for a design for an electrical/electronic water gauge for a gauge 0 loco boiler. The boiler has a conventional glass tube gauge thats difficult to read. What I'm looking for is a "sender" that can be fitted to the boiler with a suitable LED indicating thus, LED on, level OK, LED flickering, top up, LED off, level very low fill quickly.

I sure I have seen such things described, my recent searches haven't fund anything suitable.

Thanks, John

My preference is to always go for black bar if it's available in the grade of steel I want to purchase. Two reasons, its usually cheaper than bright drawn, also less prone to distortion during machining.

If steel is sold as EN3, black or cold drawn it will be EN3. All "new" steel will contain recycled steel, steel being one of the most recycled materials.

John

I've been looking at this design for a power feed for a mill I'm working on. Two reservation, firstly is that there is no means of instantly disengaging the drive to the table. Secondly, electrical stops, how accurate are they? OK for limiting the overall feed. Does the motor stop instantly or is there a finite period of slowing down?

Neither of these are "show stoppers" for me, I'll sort out a lever operated dog clutch. As for reliable/accurate stops I can work around that one, disengage the drive near to where I want to stop the feed and manually feed up to a point on the dial/DRO.

John

Can't say these truck engined B's do much for me, far to heavy up front! The V8 was a much better balanced car that should have been developed much further.

I've always admired the RV8 version of the B, the guys who developed it on a very small budget as much as the car itself. It seemed to me that the money ran out just before they got to the rear suspension, that really lets the car down. After the work they did with the front end its a great shame the rear end didn't benefit the same way.

John

I have an ancient Guyson grit blast cabinet. When I bought it the seller insisted I take the extraction/filter unit, at no extra cost! "You'll need it mate" he said, how very right he was. Using finer types of grit it soon gets hard to see what I'm doing if the extractor is not running.

I use the cabinet infrequently, never the less I find it surprising just how much the dust the extractor collects, better there than inside me.

John

Sorry to say no good at all, assuming you are forming rather than generating the gear. These gears need hobbing (generating the tooth form), although not transmitting any great load the formed tooth will probably be quite noisy, defeating Veloce's use of helicals to keep thing quiet.

Why not buy a gear (£59 from the VOC) intended for the manual advance/retard and modify that?

John

Recently I had first hand experience of the app working. Out mountain biking we came across a group of walkers, one of them in very obvious distress. Fortunately they had the app on a phone and luckily the local emergency services had just started using it. The emergency services were able to get to the location quickly. These walkers were not local so, would by their own admission would struggle to give an accurate location. Us MTBers being local may also have struggled using local rather than the "official" names for the area and features that the services need.

Needless to say I've installed the app!

John

This drill sharpener was a pleasant surprise! I bought it from Aldi (under a fiver, I think, complete with a spare grinding wheel) several years ago as a means of sharpening drills "off site". It works very well. Power is provided from an electric drill, I used a drill with a top speed of about 3000rpm, not really enough but I suspect running any faster would shorten it's life significantly .

Copes well with both HSS and tipped masonry drills.

John

The last two posts, should we ignore or follow the instructions! I (and others) have taken both approaches, still doesn't work. My 20 year old (I think) version of the Drill doctor was notorious for variable results, newer versions seem better. It was the second one I had, first one returned to the supplier, really should have sent second back but never got around to it. Anyone want it, free to a good home......

John

Edited By John MC on 10/08/2019 16:51:50