Member postings for Brian Oldford

"Self Amalg" doesn't need heat to 'do what it says on the tin'. It'll bond into a homogenous boot at ambient temperature over a period of a few days so long as the pressure is applied by a complete PVC tape over-wrap. (That's the important bit).

It takes a little longer if it is colder but I've used it in a former life outdoors in winter in the UK and it worked. I was told it had a "shelf life" but I've used some that I've had for years and it still works OK.

If you want a waterproof seal around a cable remove the minute longitudinal extrusion marks by circumferentially abrading the surface.

Going back to the self amalgamating tape. During my training I was taught to overlay the "self-amalg" with firmly bound self adhesive PVC tape. The application of pressure ensuring a complete and swift amalgamation to form a homogenous rubber "boot". Once fully amalgamated the PVC tape could be removed or may peel off on its own if exposed to sunlight.

Although I've never had a problem I'm about to check and adjust the spindle bearings on my Mk1 S7. Can someone advise the procedure and confirm whether I need 1 or 2 "C" spanners to make any adjustment that might be necessary?

Try a bit of KISS if possible and use a larger diameter tube.

Polystyrene is frequently used as a sacrificial pattern material. Useful for large-ish one-offs. OK for CI but other processes need to be added if casting steel or other materials where the carbon content must be controlled.

Sikablock (and similar from other vendors) is just such a polyurethane material. It's available in a huge range of densities. The lightest has similar mechanical properties to Oasis that used by flower arrangers. The densest could be used to drive nails in with.

Are you thinking of Sikablock? It's available from the likes of http://www.johnburn.co.uk/

I use it from time to time in my professional capacity.

I'm fairly sure you'd find someone to help you out if they are reasonably local but you give no indication of where you are.

I did a slightly similar thing using PC SMPSUs. The only thing I added was to ensure the frame of the PSUs were isolated from any metallic chassis and add inverse "flywheel" diodes to the OP of each PSU to ensure easy start-up.

But also importantly identifying the winding ends correctly as described gives the flexibility to connect star if required at a later date,

Edited By Brian Oldford on 31/05/2015 20:27:27

According to the silk screening the original C should be sufficient voltage rating for UK single phase. If of far eastern origin perhaps the figure of 450v may be more optimism than fact.

Sorry to drift OT but may be relevant.

My clunker of a Mk1 S7 has shocking rotational play on the tailstock barrel. If anyone knows of a easy (inexpensive) fix please let me know.

Great photo-story. Please keep us updated of what was found. The good, the bad and the ugly. I was a little surprised you painted the rear seating face for a (quite rare) taper turning attachment. Perhaps you don't envisage doing long tapers.

Good stuff.

Are there any multi-V/poly-V belt experts here?

Perhaps a half size might be a better compromise between utility and affordability. Looking at the drawings I don't think the patterns and cores are overly complex but the low speed prime mover might be the stumbling block. Any thoughts?

Edited By Brian Oldford on 18/05/2015 21:21:26

Without wishing to take the discussion too far off topic I think it must be said that whilst many of us aspire to own a chest full of Lie Nielsen tools we simply do not have deep enough pockets and have to make do with the less expensive yet serviceable items.

Try installing a Linux distro such as Mint then try running those old apps on WINE.

I think even 1/4hp may be a bit OTT for an Adept . Have you considered a sewing machine motor along with its usual foot control?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YDK-SEWING-MACHINE-MOTOR-AND-FOOT-CONTROL-PEDAL-LEAD-NEW-SINGER-BROTHER-NEWHOME-/350714545662?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51a83745fe

f'rinstance

As a broad generalisation for the small volumes model engineers want the greatest cost is in the pattern. That cost being predominantly labour and very little material. If you start to add complex coring the costs can sky-rocket.

Another supplier may be found here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231541878757?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Good luck in your enterprise. There's few foundries left wanting to work in "penny numbers" even in the West Midlands. In consideration of the high cost of carriage of castings, where will you be based? And; what metals will you be working in? Air-set and/or green sand?