Member postings for Journeyman

This is the Warco 80mm vice mounted on my WM14, the swivel base is somewhere about, have never used it.

Should give you an idea of the size. Works well for me.

John

Useful info on lathe tool grinding at *** Steve's Workshop ***

John

This is the motor in my BDS 460 belt sander:-

John

Looks very similar to one I got from Warco a few years ago. I use mine for metal and wood without any problem (yet). For a bit more info see a review of mine at *** Journeyman's Workshop ***

John

No problem with log-in here, almost instantaneous!

Making the post seemed quicker than normal as well.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 10/06/2022 15:27:11

Worked all right for me and quite happily sticks to cellulose that is on the machine. Only drawback is I still have a lot left. I can pour some into an envelope and post it to you!

John

I took the small swinging spindle cover off my WM250 and went to B&Q and got them to colour match some gloss paint. Worked a treat, think it was Dulux.

John

I would be inclined to buy a backplate from Warco ready to go. You then just have to machine it to fit your collet chuck. Did the same for my WM250 some time ago. Details here *** Fitting Collet Chuck ***

John

You can still buy them apparently:-

*** Lee Valley *** Canada $15.95

John

You certainly don't need to buy the Myford riser blocks but getting the lathe up in the air a bit is quite useful to aid cleaning and preventing knuckles hitting the drip/swarf tray. This is a picture of my now long gone ML7.

The tray under it is an old steel shelf from an office cupboard. The riser blocks are a couple of bits of 2" x 1" BMS bar. The blocks serve to prevent the wooden bench moving too much with a similar chunk under the bench to sandwich the top clamped together with a couple of 0.5" studs, top block threaded for stud and lower one drilled clearance. The top was drilled and tapped at the mounting holes centre for a bolt. Lathe was 'levelled' by using shims under the feet as needed. Worked well for many years.

John

Looks suspiciously similar to my ancient WM250 saddle clamp/guide. Have a look at this page on my website *** Journeyman's Workshop ***

John

To quote Terry Pratchett:

"A lie can run round the world before the truth has got its boots on."

John

Agree wholeheartedly with John McNamara and Jason. New owner, new ideas, lets move into the 21st century. Just because we are, perhaps, modelling an 18th century machine doesn't mean we should use 18th century techniques.

I would like more perhaps on 3D printing in relation to both making items but also as to jigs and tooling to aid the production process. Printing metals can be done commercially how about developing this in the home workshop.

I would also support a change of name for MEW to promote the wider home workshop ethic. Not everyone builds models but there are plenty of people using machine tools with a vast range of interests.

New owner, new name, new era!

John

Many older batons, especially those for presentations, were made with a silver join which could be engraved.

If the repair isn't as tidy as you would like a thin tube of suitable material could be fashioned to cover the join, could even be silver and engraved, very thin so no real weight.

John

Sam, it sounds as if your WM250 might be even older that my 2007 version. The lathe still works well although probably quite lightly used compared to some here. The DC motor does indeed run hot despite the fan, being tucked away at the base of the headstock there is little in the way of free air circulation, I considered fitting a computer style cooling fan to help but never got round to it. Where possible I keep my lathe in the low speed range so that it can run with higher motor speeds, this helps both for cooling and for power.

A few things I found which help rigidity:

• Check the rear saddle gib strip mine was loose on delivery, this stops the rear of the saddle lifting.
• Check the guide blocks at the front of the saddle these will probably need fitting by filing, machining or rubbing on abrasive paper. Unfortunately not adjustable so it's a one way trip don't overdo it.
• Check the cross-slide gib strip and adjust carefully. Stops side to side play and snatching.
• Check the top-slide gib strip. If not in use clamp up with the allen head screw.
• Adjust the change gears to ensure they are not too tight, use paper between the teeth.

I use a QCTP on mine without any problem but sounds as though yours might be a bit awry. I made a cross-slide toolpost to avoid any chance of play or rigidity problems from the top-slide.

As NDIY has kindly already given me a plug above here are some relevant links to my website:

WM250 review (this is a bit long in the tooth now) 4 pages
QCTP 1 - cross-slide toolpost
QCTP 2 - top-slide modes

There are a few other bits on the lathe, I will leave you to find your way around, hope it helps.

John

I thought this was quite an interesting article on the BBC News website *** Super Sized Heat Pumps *** An improvement on the Governments ideas about replacing domestic boilers with heat pumps. I was particularly impressed by the proposed use of old mine workings to provide the heat source.

John

Cycled past their HQ a week ago and it seemed to be well cared for and usable. No one there during the week though. Their *** WEBSITE *** says they are going to be running during the Easter weekend.

John

Local Charted Accountants near me:-

Keen Dicey Grover

always amuses me as I pass their office.

John

This is my version for WM250

Details of build *** HERE *** but no video!

John

You could try *** Accu *** they manufacture, mainly stainless will do specials but can't say as to order quantity required.

John