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This is a set from My record No. 3, current jaws are aluminium.

Best as I can measure. Hole centres are approx 2.110" or 2 7/64" (definitely less than 2 1/8" ) which seems a very odd measurement and the holes are 5/16" up from the bottom of the jaw. Perhaps they were 'fitted' individually!

John

I agree that many websites are unreadable due to poorly placed ads and indeed lathes.co.uk seems to have gone a bit OTT with ad placement. I would however just wave a bit of flag for the website owners/suppliers who rely on the income to offset the cost of providing the site.

I fall into this category my Journeyman's Workshop site has ads but I hope they don't deter readers, they may even provide the occasional useful link. The ads basically pay for the hosting, domain charges and even help a bit towards the ISP costs. I try to place ads sensibly so that they don't interfere with the subject matter but still may get read and clicked on. Google of course keep asking me to put in more or even worse to let them put in ads wherever they want, no chance of that happening.

Placement of ads is ultimately down to the website owner/creator who has complete control over how many and where they appear. Unfortunately some owners/creators seem to think that they should put in more and more ads just to generate revenue. This ultimately is a bad idea as visitors will just 'click on by' and you won't get any revenue at all. It's all a matter of balance.

John

If you have the original drawing would it be possible to extract just the text and then print just that in the required colour and then insert into the depression with a suitable adhesive. Print at half the height of the text depression and then you will still have an engraved and filled look. Depends a bit on the size but printing at 0.5mm or thereabouts is doable. Just depends whether the text is wider than the nozzle width.

John

I have had some success with multi colour printing for numbers, probably a bit larger than you require but this house number was printed in grey and gold PLA simply stopping the printer at the required height to change the filament.

The printer software allows for the stop and you set it it at the required height (number of layers) this was done using the Prusa Slicer software. Fading a bit now will need re-doing.

John

Another vote for spur shelving, very adaptable with a bit of tweaking you can get the bracket to hold shelves at different angles. Cheap versions available from the big DIY stores.

This lot is all held up by spur shelving and I wouldn't be surprised if the uprights were adding some strength to the somewhat flimsy workshop walls.

This is an example of angling shelves by cutting brackets to hold lathe tooling at a jaunty angle.

Most of the shelving is made from 'Timberboard' from Wickes comes in variety of widths and lengths and being an engineered board (laminated) is fairly stable, takes varnish nicely.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 18/05/2023 17:12:30

Interesting, my somewhat elderly WM250 has a similar arrangement which I am now used to but the graduations are in 0.05mm which is slightly more useful. The dial also lets you know it is referring to diameter by the ⌀ symbol.

John

As suggested by Nick above a good solution would be to fit a collet chuck. This avoids the need for a drawbar and gives the additional benefit of extra work holding capabilities.

This is an ER25 collet chuck fitted to my WM250. ER32 is another option which will afford wider work holding range. More info at *** Journeymans Workshop***

The lathe 3-jaw is not designed to hold milling cutters and will likely work it's way loose during milling operations damaging work, chuck or both.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 04/04/2023 14:03:42

Yes, agree would probably need 60 or 70 mm to work with just square ends on the tubes but an elegant solution by Jason avoiding lots of fancy cuts.

John

50mm hollow steel balls from eBay if I am allowed to post the link.

John

I have one very similar, it works for me with the single pattern wheels.

Did the knurls on these with them.

John

I would expect the type of tool you have to be equipped with single angled wheels as per your first image. The diamond pattern that you show in the second image would normally be for use in a single wheel push in knurling tool. Would suggest getting a new pair of wheels.

John

A pocket sundial by Michael Butterfield of Paris, similar to the image below, featured on the BBC's Bargain Hunt last week. Worth as I remember several thousand pounds.

So keep practicing your work too may be worth a fortune one day.

John

You could go the whole hog and build a screen like this.

Or perhaps just use the shop-vac strategically placed.

For a slightly simpler type of screen, have a look at the one I did for my WM14 *** Mill Screen ***

John

Edited By Journeyman on 23/03/2023 11:23:33

No, 2007 vintage, more detail on Journeymans Workshop

John

I use flange nuts on my WM250. It saves faffing about with nuts and washers in the very tight space, about 15mm, between the flange and the headstock.

Couldn't find smooth faced flange nuts so made a threaded mandrel and turned the serrations off. Mine are just bog standard BZP nuts. Seem to work quite well, I don't think they actually take much load, certainly not done up particularly tight.

John

Should include the Open Document file types as well:

• .odt and .fodt for word processing (text) documents
• .ods and .fods for spreadsheets
• .odp and .fodp for presentations
• .odg and .fodg for graphics
• .odf for formula, mathematical equations

Keep us Linux users happy

John

Edited By Journeyman on 16/03/2023 09:30:55

The bed on these lathes is advertised and sold as 'hardened' so possibly this missed the hardening process. A discussion with Warco perhaps.

I am not sure exactly how hard it is and have no idea how you might test this. I might though have expected it to have put up a little more resistance to scratching than it has done so far.

John

Diluted PVA painted onto the bed will help with adhesion problems. Dilute the usual PVA wood adhesive about 50/50 with water paint on and let dry. The bed still needs to be very clean, a wipe with kitchen paper and bioethanol or similar fixes that. More important is getting the first layer height correct, if the plastic is not pressed down well to the plate it won't stick. Also with PETG the temperature needs to be correct, it has a higher melting point that PLA so make sure you have set the temp correctly. May still need some experimentation with temperature to find what works best for your particular filament. Too high a temperature will result in lots of stringing (fine hair-like strands) the stringing tends to stick to the outside of the nozzle and can cause problems.

I find that PETG is a very good filament to work with once you have cracked the problems. I rarely use PVA now except for larger prints that often want to lift at the corners.

Good luck

John

It seems I was wrong about Z height being in software. Just had a look at one of the Anycubic manuals and it does seem to rely on the manual adjustment of the bed. Sorry! I am used to my Prusa and once the initial setup is done you use a menu setting to adjust the print thickness up and down.

John

Z-height adjustment will definitely be in software and available from a menu. The four bed screws are for initial bed setup and levelling only. Once set level the bed should only rarely need adjusting again. Depending how old it is there may even be bed level compensation built into the operating system firmware. You can tell if before a print run it performs a series of traverses across the bed. The latest models certainly include 25 point bed levelling in firmware.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 27/02/2023 09:37:49