Member postings for PekkaNF

Thank you Jason,

I found your and Clough42, in Thingiverse, but could not find the box from either of them.

I'll check the youtube vids, I am sure they are useful.

BR,

Pekka

Does anybody have STL for the LED/button control box?

I have ordered aluminium box, but it takes some time to get it. Might as well to print one in meantime.

I have control board and 3D printed buttons and lid, only missing the boxy part.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=52187

Zan,

You may want to have look on GitHub Wiki component list: - lathe spesic parts

https://github.com/clough42/electronic-leadscrew/wiki/Stuff-You'll-Need

And watch episode Lathe Electronic Leadscrew Part 15

https://youtu.be/9Ou80oucrvI

" I used a 1024-pules (4096 count) encoder (Omron E6B2-CWZ6C).
Choose an encoder that runs on 5VDC with open-collector outputs. "

OP has a round column mill.

I bought three axis unit and assembled X/Y into dro. Left Z as "future expansion" I have plan, but I am not yet in agreement with my self on execution.

My warco mill/drill has pretty basic depth stop I upgraded it loosely like in this video:

https://youtu.be/4eY_8wCVGMg

And mounted el-chepo scale to quil:

https://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,12858.0.html

Pekka

Build something like that 2017 to lap carbide scraper blades. I used 90W 2800 rpm furnace blower motor geared dow with round belt pulleys.

I used scraped aluminium profile for frame and build very simple spindle with two ball bearings that acsept 12 mm shaft. i glued one bearing (fixed bearing) and left another easy fit. All parts and materials from scrap box.

Work table is mild steel to allow fixing jigs there with magnets.

Different holes for different r (on scraper blade radius).

Plinth made of C-section mild steel is milled to proper angle (scraping blade needs small negative angle).

Slow speed works fine and even blade change is not too hard with knurled knob.

Edited By PekkaNF on 12/11/2019 17:31:09

Edited By PekkaNF on 12/11/2019 17:32:50

Or you might get something out of this vid.

https://youtu.be/GOBtH4m2TYo

Edited By PekkaNF on 12/11/2019 11:16:13

Edited By JasonB on 12/11/2019 11:19:37

I use a band of color coded electrical tape. I buy package of assorted colors and then stick to code. Cromos are pretty impossible to differentiate by looks and same material in rough after heat treatment, rough turned or drawn can look very different. And you will not notice difference with 42CrMo4 or 34CrNiMo6 in bar form, until you mix these with free maching steels and then break drill or tap.

Color coded tape is good enough for me and no trouble allowing for overlaping colors with steel and aluminium, they look pretty different.

Paints are good, when you have a bunch of material and can paint them all on one go, but assortement of unreliable half empty spray cans is not my thing.

Pekka

Would It be possible to fit approximately 10 mm sandwich plate and not to use the original erroneous screw locations but make new ones furher away (and possibly Low Hex Head Screws or countersunk head screws)?

Maybe you need to make back fixing point trough the steady and sandwich plate, maybe there is enough space outside of the fixed steady?

This would allow to fix this steady to to sandwich plate first and then make fresh start for new fixing screws. Allows using the new (better and more locating postitions) for mounting and removing the fixed steady and allows better location fixing for news holes. I would put good size arbour between chuck and tail stock, locate steady fingers to near ideal places, CA glue the steady onto cross slide and then mark location for fresh screws.

Downside is that a sandwich plate moves the fingers away from the cutting tool, sometimes it is problem, sometimes not really that much.

OMEGADRILL?

http://omegadrill.com/

I (mis)used one to drill into hardened steel pin.

Edited By PekkaNF on 01/04/2019 10:45:05

had this problem also. I have to circumvent it by using a drawbolt + MT2 collet + ground arbor (that fits inside MT2 collet) + bushing to fit (if you need larger diameter stub than you can fit into MT2 collet). Sounds fiddly - it is, but gives pretty good repeated centering.

I also had to modify keys under the RT to index it straight into milling machine table. I have 1500 kg milling machine and 150 mm dia RT. RT is not very rigid for all the cuts. These cheap ones don't have very good bearings and design. But I usually get the work done.

PekkaNF

Has anybody got this mag yet?

I got "Order Confirmation" on 27:th of August and eagerly waitting for this publication to find it's way to my mailbox.

PekkaNF

I would love to see this in MEW. I have a 1200 kg TCG but I have to duck for cover every time I start it.....

If it is done in ME and not offered to MEW only audience as a peace offering/freebie or something....I would feel completely gutted.

PekkaNF

Two pieces of advice:

1) Stop spending. Don't buy any cheap tools until you absolutely need them. Then buy ONLY tools you need and quality.

2) If you are any new to milling buy a book "Milling: A Complete Course" Harold Hall. And in meantime visit his site:

http://homews.co.uk/page463.html

Some of the clamps and other workholding equipment can be bought, but quite a bit is least as good when made at home.

PekkaNF

Aargh...

I got a reminder to renew my MEW subcription and the offer only gives one option. That is paper only for and paper £52.95 + digital for £61.95. Pretty big raise on the price.

And when I go to the site and try to renew my subcription the SW only tells that they have no record of me. I did contact this comppany and this did not resove it. I tried again with the information they gave me and it does not work.

I'm pretty mad at this point. I used to like this mag, but I'm really, really thinkking do I really need this.

PekkaNF

Yup. There are limitations, but they don't blow up when they heat up. I have had cheap welders and I have a professional welder. The difference is very clear on the duty cycle and ease of use, but even the cheapest piece of crap buzz box will just shut off and after cooling it it will work.

Moreover all these milling machines comes up with a table that will tell what duty cycle they perform.

Electronics that overheats and dies from normal use is just faulty. Plain and simple. Bad design or poor manufacturing. Thermal cutout (on motor and control board) has very little impact on price and practically no impact on weight. A PTC on the motor weight few grams.

I do agree for the rest of the post regarding rating and duty cycle. Any improvement will cost money.

But serously....it is very sily to require a hobbyist to have an ESP qualities of estimating what these machines will do and what not before giving up on ghosts.

Pekka

Ketan Swali is gettin here so much undeserved flak that I'll prefer to order some next tools from him. I just have to salute that level of comitment and integrity he is showing.

Have to get some stuf together at the work, that I will be blamed anyways no matter what, but someone has to do the work, othervice the rest would have nothing to complain about.

Pekka

Bought exactly one of these Ikea jönsö or whatever clip on lamps and just to chek it out I clipped it on office table. It went off after like 10 minutes and I returned in on the shop. I don't like much sweedish chinese stuff. Someone else might have a better luck with their products, but I really hate visitting their shops.

Pekka

I like to use carbide inserts, because it is possible to buy brand/quality inserts and holders. Carbide can be used without cooling and grindings.

Then again, I almos gave up after I bought bad inserts and holders.

I'm having real trouble locating even semi decent HSS blanks. I have found one supplier that does, but then corbide insers are more economical to me.

Although I agree, that if I need something nonstandard, then grinding from HSS is way to go.

I stick mostly on following tip geometries:

CCMT6 (SCLC R/L for external turning, SCLCR for internal turning 8 to 16 mm shanks)

SCMT9 (SSSCR Roughing)

GTN2 parting off, I had some Sandvik inserts, they were really good, still have 10 pcs of Iscar inserts, but tehy are not equally good.

And Mesa tools stuff for threading and grooving:

http://www.mesatool.com/products/threading-tools/

I still retain some right/left hand cheap CCMT09 holders, but now I buy quality inserts for them,

I trashed the first/cheap nonstandard threadin, parting-off, and internal turning holders they looked like tools, but were just imitation. Some of the inserts grumbled when they touched the workpiece first time - and they cost 60% of the real thing! If the seller can't give you grade and parameters, changes are that they are not known!

Pekka

Nothing else but haples charcter chasing running avians comes into my mind. And ACME-brand rocket apparatus.

Is "GWR screw reverser." some loco-stuff?

Chekked Tracy Tools and ACME taps looks affordable, definately something to keep in mind, but metric one (trapezoidal) didn't seem to readily available "TRAPEZOIDAL TAPS - PLEASE TELEPHONE FOR AVAILABILITY"

Probably will buy a insert and tool-holder or try to make one ground HSS-variety with adjustable lead angle (left/righ) for outside thread, but under 16mm tap would be nice.

Thanks, Pekka