Member postings for Fowlers Fury

Howard - this is by way of an experiment as I no longer have Win 7 but it "should" work with any screen text or image. I wont know until I press "Post a reply" and see it !!!

1. I opened a blank "Post a reply"
2. I held down the right mouse button whilst dragging the cursor over the text in your letter above.
3. Then released the right mouse button and moved the cursor to the blank "post a reply".
4. Then, I used the standard Windows command of Ctrl + V [which means "paste"]
5. The captured text from your post then appeared.
6. In the top right corner there was a red arrow. Clicking on this created space above the copied text which is where I am typing this.

Howard Lewis	19/03/2021 16:20:38
4554 forum posts 9 photos	Looks like there is no hope of my being able to use Windows 7 to paste / import an image into a post! Can JUST manage to paste / import (whatever the term is ) to put an image into an Album. No wonder we dinosaurs became extinct! Howard
	Message member Ignore member Send to friend Quote Report

Edited By Fowlers Fury on 19/03/2021 16:36:00

Re. "The other question is, can the font size in a post I’m writing be changed? I find it far too tiny to see write and read and have to [copy] and [paste] with Arial 13pt using LibreOffice, as I've done here."

If you're one of the myopic dinosaurs like me using Windows and a wheeled mouse, then hold down the Ctrl key and rotate the mouse wheel.

Neil > "You can switch off defragging for an SSD, it doesn't speed one up as there's no seek time with an SSD "

Exactly ~ and of course as mentioned above, regular defrag procedures are detrimental to the life of a SSD, which is anyway less than that of a HDD.

Though others may well have had better experience, I recently HAD to buy a new drive as the old HDD gave up the ghost. OK, more expensive but I'll get a SSD.
No anticipated problems in configuring the SSD I naively thought - I have a weekly Windows backup on an ext HDD and everything will copy over OK.

It does not. "Gotcha No. 1"
As multiple searches online via a laptop confirmed, a Win10 backup keeps a copy of your personal files only - not the OS + your progs.
Ah well then, there's plenty of guidance on d/loading a copy of M/soft Media Creation Tool and from there, the creation of a new, up-to-date Win10 OS.

"Gotcha No. 2" is that it is hellish hard and takes many hours to try and incorporate all those personal files into the new OS. Docs, images and music etc are no problem but reinstalling emails, e-addresses via .pst files and your progs are a subcategory of Gotcha No 2. I gave up on that after many hours.

Naive thinking Chapter II
I also had taken a disc image of my old, defunct HDD. It was about 3 months old but "it'll be dead easy to just recreate the image onto the new SSD".

Wrong again = Gotcha No. 3.............
As further online searching revealed, M/soft will only allow a disk image to be restored to the original disc from which it was taken !!!
(Expletives deleted)

Eventually discovered that you can partially defeat Gotcha No. 3 by a tedious process which will "mount" it. This produces a huge, multi Gb file of everything in the image. (Yes, you find you need a high capacity ext drive).

I can appreciate M/soft don't want to invite litigation for allowing the easy copying of commercial, copyright progs. This would be the case if it were possible for the unscrupulous to sell copies of disc images or backups loaded with pirated s/ware.

But I will be truly delighted to read of others' easy solution to this not-so-unusual need to reproduce your entire, up-to-date but failed HDD on to a new one. Perhaps one of the commercial progs have been proven to accomplish this within a few hours without tears or constant monitoring so that you finish with a fully working, 100% restored main drive. I'll gladly buy a license if so.
If it's suggested that a total clone of your HDD is taken onto a 2nd HDD every night, then that doesn't satisfy the criteria above !

There's an old saying "You'll never know how good your backup is until you really need it"

You wrote " I don't want suggestions for 'fixes' as I've guaranteed to have already tried / implemented them with no perceivable difference."

Hence you will have done the following:-

Pressed Ctrl + Alt + Del keys together when your pc has finally loaded up.
Then clicked on Task Manager.
Clicked on the tab "Startup" showing you the impact that start up progs are having on your computer's resources.
You will have disabled any progs you don't need at start up.

Also, if you have a 'big' antivirus prog installed e.g. Norton, you will have already checked that it's likely to be examining all running boot processes etc when starting and you will be aware it can delay things appreciably.

Yes, absolutely a SSD (Solid State Drive) will speed things up no end. But you'll be well aware of the numerous Windows "gotchers!" in transferring your operating system from a HDD to a SSD.

" I just wonder if this type of OS is just becoming outdated and too top heavy."
I don't find it (Win10) "outdated" in any way. Not sure what "top heavy" means but in its current manifestation, it certainly occupies a vast number of gigabytes.

A lot of justified support above for a spotting 'scope to meet your needs.
A tripod is essential and the 'scope needn't cost a fortune. At the Midlands ME exhibitions some years ago, there was often a stand run by a Chinese (?) lady who sold various optical devices. I think I paid GBP70 for one of her spotting scopes with tripod and coated lenses. Its performance is impressive even if the focus control knob is a little imprecise. Here is a composite image taken with a Leica Q2 of a cement works about 2.5 miles away. It shows the images taken at x25 and x75 with the camera via a home made adapter coupled to the 'scope. (For posting this, the image size and resolution has been much reduced).

Nick, not sure I'd want to use expanded polystyrene in a garage/workshop location even when the EPS contains fire retardant. Have you had a look at Kay Metzeler's safety data sheet?
Some points therein:

• Extreme caution must be exercised when storing, shaping and applying EPS to ensure total protection from flame and/or fire.
• EPS should be kept away from all substances of unknown composition that could contain solvents e.g. paints or adhesive.
• Avoid all sources of ignition: sparks, open flame.
• Incompatible materials: Solvents e.g. paints or adhesive / Creosote / Diesel / Heating oil / Petrol / Paint thinners / White spirit

Some years ago, I went for this product to insulate the inside of steel garage doors:- https://www.weatherstop.co.uk/collections/garage-door-insulation

Very effective, it seems to be polyethylene "bubble sheet" inside a double layer of aluminium foil.

" don't worry Neil will be along in a minute to explain that the the google + facebook cookies added by this site are not trackers but merely benign helps to improve the site design "

According to "Ghostery" which always runs alongside Firefox Focus, this is what we get.
4 trackers = not bad for a 'public site' and it still works fine when they're blocked.

Ref earlier posting " On top of this, it is worth knowing that almost every user on the internet is uniquely identified by your IP, browser, operating system, and other information that is sent by default to every website on the internet. If 'they' want to know who you are, it's not a problem for them. "

Does the "almost" above mean all those who don't use a VPN? Seems unlikely as in 2020 (quote) "If you use a VPN, you're among around 31% of internet users".
**LINK**

Using a good VPN provides a whole manner of safeguards and benefits since you're not identifiable to the websites visited.

Duncan, just used "Behind the Overlay" on Arc Euro's site and that cookie overlay disappeared leaving normal access.

(Typo corrected)

Edited By Fowlers Fury on 27/01/2021 16:31:40

It is infuriating now that when opening most websites, you're required to approve or reject "non-essential" cookies before it will load.
I have though found one solution which works on 90% of websites. It's a free add-on for Firefox and Chrome called "Behind the Overlay". Firefox version:-

**LINK**

It places a small icon in the search bar, or you can Shift+Alt+x. When confronted by the cookie overlay, either click on the icon or use the 3 key combination and the cookie overlay disappears and access the site as normal.
A few sites then block scrolling but there's a work-around described.

Please ensure if you are spraying white spirits or indeed any other proprietary enamel solvent* (petroleum distillate) that you avoid inhalation of the droplets or vapour. Although the quantities used and released from airbrushing are small, the health hazards are potentially significant, even under 100 parts per million in air. Detailed information is summarised here:-

Check -

*At least read the manufacturer's MSDS online.

An ordinary fabric face mask will provide no protection.
Then there is also the fire/explosion risk from the vapour. White spirit forms explosive air-vapour mixtures above 21°C.

Using a little white spirit on a rag to clean a small surface constitutes a minimal risk to health but spraying the complex petroleum mixture should really take place in a booth or outside.

Of course there will be many claiming "a working lifetime of exposure to white spirit never did me any harm". Unfortunately, CNS effects following long-term solvent exposure are well known.

Kevin, you haven't witten which of LBSC's alternative valve gear you have made for Tich.
Assuming you've made it with Walschaerts, it might be helpful to look at some valve timing vids on YouTube. Though not for a Tich, there's one vid (of many) which explains clearly enough the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRGGSr68miQ

I should have made it clearer in the first post.
Instead of " The posted comments explain " I should have written, "Commenters on the YouTube page identified the electric skateboard".
I noticed his janitor's bucket when in motion had acquired suspension but only after reading the posted comments did I watch again and see the skateboard.

Lockdown Distractions?

I yeald to none in my ignorance of basic physics but this short video, sent by a model engineering friend, even to me clearly contradicted Newton's 3rd Law:-
*Link*

I was only sent the vid not the YouTube link so it took a little tracking down. The posted comments explain ...but perhaps amusing nevertheless?
(I tried following site guidance for embedding YouTube vids here. I couldn't get to " Scroll to the size boxes, go to "Customised" and type "450" into the width box " on my browser).

Another time-waster spotted on YouTube below. Perhaps I feel less concerned about my wasted workshop time now:-
Useless Machine

Have you ever looked at "David Carpenter's website"?
Some while back there was a short construction series by "Artisan" on making a tube bender.

As you'll see above, he made no claims for originality. I made one to the design and am very impressed with how well it works, producing tight bends without kinking or other unwanted distortions.

Artisan showed examples of bends his device had produced:-

David Carpenter has transferred most of his older articles to DVDs now which must be a bargain at GBP 7.90 each. Just check on his DVD section on the website.

I made a few alterations to the design such as a stronger baseplate and also discovered an easy and quick way to make the many rollers. I'm happy to provide details if you decide to go this route.

Emgee ~ thanks for posting that link, it is to the article I referred to above - but couldn't now locate its source.

My latest rings were made for the HP valve chamber and thus smaller in size than those for the main (5" scale) cylinders. As, NDIY comments, the rings take a set at the "right" temp. I over-heated the first batch and half snapped as they were gently spread over the valve bobbin. With the pyrometer, the 2nd batch were gently raised to about 500C and allowed to cool amongst the fire bricks. The pre-cut gaps of 2 thou were held apart in the clamp - as below before being covered with the 'fire bricks'. The 4 rings were then sprung over the bobbin without a problem.

Quote " According to Mr. Parker you clamp the rings in a stack, paint on the Whitening, Heat to cherry red allow to cool and remove whitening with a wire brush. "
Having just spent many hours making Meehanite rings for the loco and breaking 50% of them during fitting, may I offer a note of caution?
Clamp the rings but do not heat to cherry red; that's far too hot. It is above the critical temp and will cause metallurgical changes in the iron which are not wanted. After much online searching, I found an excellent article which reviewed (& criticised) some of the expert writings of Tubal Cain, Prof Chaddock etc. Therein it states the correct temp is "480 -520 degC " and not hotter.
I borrowed a pyrometer, followed the guidance and no more breakages fitting them over the piston.
Don't bother with whiting - at the correct temp there'll be little or no scaling.

Unfortunately, the url I have for the article seems to have expired
http://www.btinternet.com/~sylvestris/rings/rings.html
but if you PM me I'll gladly email you a copy - it's a wealth of information.

Someone queried the consituents of dishwasher tablets. There are agents to "bleach", surfactants, and oxidisers e.g. sodium carbonate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium percarbonate and alcohol ethoxylates. Much of their oil removing properties are due to enzymes such as subtiliisins. However the enzymes need cool water, being deactivated in boiling water.

Despite Duncan's advised precautions, I would advise against using "hot & strong" caustic soda. It is very corrosive.
As before, it's safer to use either Orange Swarfega or a couple of dishwasher tablets in an old container big enough for the parts. Start with warm water to preserve the enzymes then if you can, boil the solution - if that's not possible then just steep in very hot water. At risk of repetition, if you don't get old oil out of seams, rivets etc, it can ruin your subsequent painting.

Roger B's advice is fully endorsed !
I would suggest rubbing the surfaces all over with Swarfega, the "Orange" version is maybe better as it contains plastic microspheres - then flushing with hot water.
THE best preparation on those components which can withstand it - and when SWMBO is out for half a day - is to put them into the (empty) dishwasher. If the risk of detection is too great or you don't have a dishwasher, then boiling those parts with a couple of dishwasher tablets in an old pan will be nearly as effective. I suggest that because the big problem is old oil trapped in seams and especially under rivet heads. Unless that is effectively removed, you'll end up with "fish eyes" and streaks when repainting/spraying.

BTW - white spirits is an oil, OK for most oil-based enamel paints but not cellulose or some acrylics.

+1 (or more) for 240v dehumidifiers left running. Not experienced any rust problems since acquiring a fairly large dehumidifier some years ago.

Common belief that "you" are the major source of water vapour is not really the case compared to the ambient, weather conditions. The amount of water vapour we exhale depends on local air temp and humidity. Lower ambient temp & humidity means more water vapour exhaled. For example in conditions we wouldn't tolerate in the workshop of -10°C and 25% RH, water loss through breathing is at maximum of around 20 ml/hr. Under more comfortable conditions, it is less than 10 ml/hr.

(Added bonus of a sizeable dehumidifier is the volume of distilled water produced during autumn & winter. This is used by SWMBO in her steam iron, by me in the loco boiler and for car 'screen washer etc etc).