Member postings for GWRdriver

If this is the LBSC "Pansy" you can count on their being a few errors, although how many and how serious they are I don't know, but all have probably been sussed out and posted or printed somewhere.

A check of Alan Stepney's model engineering page, which had an ongoing "Errors" page, shows that unfortunately the page is no longer up. Perhaps it's been reposted under a different name. I have the information from Alan's Errors list but it's on another computer and I'll have to go there to search it out. If I find there is any information there I'll post. it.

>>(I) have a couple of questions: compound steam oil - 460, 680 or 1000? I've been suggested 1000, but I think it should be 460?<<

I think you are correct.  I've been using 460 (or thereabouts) steam cylinder oil for 40+ years on all scales with excellent results.  The advice to use 1000 is overkill IMHO and is a symptom of the "More/bigger is better" disease which seems to be creeping in everywhere.

There is propaganda being spread that all of today's so-called "steam oil" is only a gear oil in disguise, and some of those oils may very well serve well, but an engineer from a well-known petroleum brand assures me that a proper steam oil is still being made.  I contacted that company some years ago to suss out a rumor that steam oil was soon to be discontinued.  His answer, in brief, was no, the world was still full of steam powered industrial machinery all of which needed good old steam oil.

Edited By GWRdriver on 18/02/2016 00:12:59

Hello Dave,

I prefer the interior butt & strap joint, for the reasons mentioned, . . . with qualifications. The only riveting absolutely necessary is what is required to hold the joint in place and keep it snug during soldering. Otherwise there's essentially no structural benefit from the rivets - it's all in the solder. For that reason it's important to get complete solder penetration to this joint and to do this, in addition to keeping the surfaces scrupulously clean, I file a slight relief angle (creating a "V" ) on the abutting edges of the barrel. This V helps admit and distribute solder along the joint. I also file a solder port (wide spot) every inch or so along the joint, likewise to provide entry points for the solder. I also grind (by Dremel, etc) shallow solder paths in the solder side of the strap to help solder wick to the edges of the strap. Tiny details I admit, but this will help insure a sound joint.

Edited By GWRdriver on 18/12/2015 14:26:18

Hello Martin,

My general approach, when starting from scratch, is to assume the top edge of the flue nest is located at or just under the center line of the barrel. This isn't an absolute, but rather a starting point. This will put the upper surface of the firebox crown sheet a short distance above the barrel centerline, equal to whatever allowance you want to make for the radius of the formed head, plus two layers of copper. Does this help?

Harry

I can't address your question specifically as it relates to Britannia, but I've tried to use ball bearings in a couple of locos, always with no success. I'm sure they would be a great running success, . . IF I could fit them in. Invariably a small ball bearing with an OD which will fit within the limits of a typical axle box, has an ID such that it reduces the axle diameter axle to the point where it can become a weak point and undersized for the wheel. Personally I like to retain as much axle diameter to the back of the wheel as possible.

A solution is to use needle roller bearings and matching hardened inner races. Needle bearings require careful fitting but they can work out quite well as long as their fitting, alignment, and lubrication needs are looked after.

Cheers,

Harry

Edited By GWRdriver on 16/12/2014 03:53:52

Hello Mark,

I have found that a good quality steam cylinder oil of around 460 weight is satisfactory for everything from Ga1 to 7"+ga with moderate superheat (ie, steam drying.) For general track and workshop lubrication I have found that common hydraulic oil (ISO-68) is perfectly satisfactory for everything from motion work to spindle bearings.

It's difficult to say how effective it will be, each situation is different, but living in the high humidity of the southern US I have found that along with the usual care, and a little preservative oil now and again, a small circulating fan has done wonders to prevent any condensation (and subsequent rusting.)

Edited By GWRdriver on 12/02/2014 21:00:06

A couple of years ago I posted a few questions on locomotive details, basically "How'd you do it?", to one of the model engineering boards I haunt and I was answered off-board by "Taff", a name which aside from that particular ME board I had not run across despite years (actually decades) of reading ME and not so many EIM. (Perhaps I should re-read some of these volumes and pay closer attention to the bylines.) Anyway a brief, friendly, and very helpful personal correspondence followed which eventually included several photos of his beautifully done GWR locomotive models. I too am sorry to hear of his passing.

Now would be this be for the 3.5"ga version or the 5"ga?

Dockstader does work just fine but for future reference all the Dockstader programs are primarily proofing programs rather than design programs. Certainly it can be a design tool, but you must first design your valve gear, or develop approximations to your design, and the results can then be plugged into Dockstader, the behavior of the gear analyzed, and then make and view the results of adjustments made to optimize the operation.

His last known address (2008) is

Lidesdale

5 Dipwood Way

Rowlands Gill

Tyne & Wear NE391DH

It was a bit odd from the beginning. One can build the complete chassis from the articles in ME (May 1970 - March 1972) but there the series unceremoniously ended without explanation. Rumour had it that there was a disagreement over publication rights. There may still be a disagreement over publication rights and Ken has elected to be the sole source for drawings.  I have virtually all the drawings beyond what were published in ME and these were acquired driectly from Ken in Rowlnads Gill. At that time I believe he was still offering castings direct. That was in 1999 and I don't know if Ken is still living.

Edited By GWRdriver on 04/01/2013 13:40:36

Hello Ian,

If I understand correctly you propose to build a Bridget. I can't provide a definitve answer to your question but I do know the Bridget boiler fairly well and it would be reasonable to assume that Ken Swan adapted at least the details if not the entire Bridget boiler to Jessie. From measuring two small elevation drawings the OA length and other major dimensions appear to be the same but that could very well be misleading. I would be glad to quote and compare OA dimesions with you if you wish.