Here is a list of all the postings Ian Parkin has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Warco WM16 |
02/02/2016 08:54:17 |
Mark p I think Chris Evens6 was referencing Mark p..rickett2 |
01/02/2016 17:26:29 |
Michael is this the same as your gear? this is how mine wore out as the teeth were not fully in mesh Having said that the one that i have spare which has been in 3 years or so is like new after solving the engagement problem |
01/02/2016 10:43:17 |
George the oiling system is a pump from arc some pipe a 3 way connector and fittings into each nut...the pipes are a bit of a pain to route so they dont get trapped on the travelling of the ways
The Z drive is a small parverlux 24 dc geared motor from ebay theres a seller who does loads of these Its mounted via a coupling to where the handle fitted and controlled by a switch mounted on the side of the control box
The motor and belt drive is here its a 1440 rpm 1.5kw 3 phase motor with a 35 tooth 15mm wide 5 mm pitch htd belt and the pulley on the spindle is a 72 tooth the gearbox is removed completely the tacho drive is relocated to between the 2 gears left on the spindle
Guard removed for photo held on with the screws visible in front of the front pulley Edited By Ian Parkin on 01/02/2016 10:44:55 |
01/02/2016 08:16:02 |
I have a WM18 size machine and all in all I'm very happy with it...its work envelope is great for its size and weight My gear only lasted 4 weeks and after stripping it out it was because the speed change levers detents only put the gear half in mesh with its steel counterpart...after modifying that and a new gear alls been well since ( 3 years... but then done away with see below) Modifications I've done Motor drive to Z axis 3 axis dro power drive to X tramming screws on head to hold head at 0 degrees oiling system to screws replaced motor with induction motor and VFD now 1.5kw get rid of gearbox and fit htd belt drive machines runs so much better and almost silently from 40rpm to 2000rpm and no vibration
I'm limited in the weight of machine I can get in my workshop ( down 13 steps) but it does everything I can imagine. |
Thread: Power X Feed Problem on WM18 Mill |
25/01/2016 18:00:31 |
well as its not mounted where is it? is it pressed? |
25/01/2016 16:34:21 |
Is the limit switch ok? did you mount the limit switch? on mine if the switch is pressed it stops travel one way yet allows you to run the other way Though it doesnt kill the power light |
Thread: Plating nuts and bolts |
24/01/2016 18:47:47 |
I used kits from GATOROS zinc with passivation ,copper and dull nickel for restoration of my motorbikes They worked well and have lasted well |
Thread: Metric lead screw on a Myford Super 7 |
24/01/2016 13:46:28 |
Do you have a dial gauge? clamp that to the bed ways and turn the lead screw one turn with the half nuts engaged and see how far the carriage moves.... similary with the cross slide
this will confirm that you have metric threads |
Thread: Harrison L5 problem |
23/01/2016 13:15:53 |
Posted by Tony Pratt 1 on 23/01/2016 12:01:17:
Posted by Ian Parkin on 23/01/2016 11:37:30:
I cant imagine any chuck could let you turn a taper...if you tun the chuck slowly under power does the dial indicate wildly? meaning the bar is held at an angle
sorry i worded that wrong if the chuck isnt holding straight it will turn a taper but bigger to the chuck end Edited By Ian Parkin on 23/01/2016 11:39:08 Whether a turned part is parallel is controlled by the alignment of the spindle to the lathe bed, the true running of the chuck or otherwise doesn't come into it. Tony If the work is held in a chuck at an angle then the work wont turn parallel at all whether the spindle is in line with the bed or not It will turn a taper bigger at the chuck end and smaller at the far end |
23/01/2016 11:37:30 |
I cant imagine any chuck could let you turn a taper...if you tun the chuck slowly under power does the dial indicate wildly? meaning the bar is held at an angle
sorry i worded that wrong if the chuck isnt holding straight it will turn a taper but bigger to the chuck end Edited By Ian Parkin on 23/01/2016 11:39:08 |
23/01/2016 11:14:42 |
Have you a length of silver steel to mount in the chuck and redo your alignment test with the dial gauge? also grasp the test bar mounted in the chuck with the dial on it to see if it will move under force Edited By Ian Parkin on 23/01/2016 11:21:06 |
23/01/2016 10:55:04 |
What diameter are you turning the test sample to? Are you using a steady? |
Thread: Price of steel |
19/01/2016 14:23:35 |
I would think that theres a world of difference between buying a lorry load of steel and buying a 1/2" diameter 12inch length from a retail environment If I go to my local steel stockists I get charged about £1.50 a kilo for new stuff in full lengths (3 metres) Offcuts on the other hand are about £0.50 kilo Looking at a typical me supplier they charge £3.30 for 300mm of 25mm dia steel ( 1.25kg) so about £2600 ish a tonne |
Thread: ER32 Collet Chuck advise please. |
10/01/2016 14:06:38 |
If you put the indicator on the taper on the inside of the collet chuck how does that read? If thats good you are installing the collet into the nut before fitting? I have seen some american sites where people have not done that and had run out |
Thread: Problem with electric motor |
08/01/2016 21:39:57 |
Have you removed a capacitor? your rating plate shows the specification needed looks like it may be connected to your 2 spare connections on the terminal block |
Thread: What do i need for my new setup |
07/01/2016 19:10:40 |
MalcB did you mean in your post above that if i have a MT3 in my mill and want it to be R8 instead ...it is an easy mod with the spindle in situ?
Care to explain how?
Ian |
Thread: Stevenson Blocks... |
07/01/2016 11:23:04 |
Having aquired a set of er40's they look very well made and finished....do you make them mr stevenson?.. One thought though is it possible to have made a er40 nut that will take a er32 collet or er20? then a taper fitting to put into the er40 hole to sleeve it down? to the smaller sizes
Just saves buying smaller er40s when I allready have them in smaller er's
Is this possible? |
Thread: Boxford VM30 Milling Machine Motor |
02/01/2016 10:47:19 |
Mike Photos.... when you are writing a post click on the camera icon above the text entry box and select a photo from your album Hope i'm not teaching sucking eggs but to change to delta remove all screws ( 6) from the connections and move the links ( 3) to go up and down one link on each wire pair rather than across as in your photo replace all screws and input wires as you were and you now have a delta connected motor suitable for 240v use As to size of inverter unless you have access to a 415 v supply to measure current or a friend with a say 2kw inverter who would let you connect your motor to to measure current...all inverters will display current whilst running. I would say looking at your motor that its unlikely to be bigger than 1.5kw so buy a secondhand inverter as a start and connect and see what current it draws and set max curent to 20% higher. If you are anywhere near sheffield I can do this for you and make a switch control box whilst you wait
Ian
|
01/01/2016 21:58:36 |
Post a picture of the inside of your junction box and we can tell if its dual voltage if it has 6 wires its dual i only 3 its 415 only without diving in to find the star point Ian Edited By Ian Parkin on 01/01/2016 22:00:37 |
Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread (2016) |
01/01/2016 17:25:13 |
Bob thanks for that that looks to be the one but you must have better eyes than me I cant see clarke on it
Ian |
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