Member postings for _Paul_

Could it be because it will also double as a Bullworker® ?

Handpower is fine but once you go beyond making keyways it can soon become tiresome.

Paul

As previously stated lathe tools will do, you wont get any shop bought ones.

Couple of books you might like which contain how to make your own:

Ian Bradley "The Shaping Machine"

Lathe and Shaping Machine Tools by "Duplex"

Depends what you are doing but for general use I prefer this type :

Lets you use smaller chunks of tool steel, there are quite a few variations on this style some bought (Armstrong) and some shop made, the late Art Volz did this design some years ago.

Regards

Paul

Sadly true, however Blackgates do their own brand of case hardening powder witch works exactly the same as and has the same properties as Kasenit.

I normally get mine from their stand at whatever particular event they and I are at.

Paul

lol

Dual voltage (220/415v) motors should have a junction box on them which may if you're lucky have a wiring diagram in it, you will have to open the junction box cover and alter the "links" (brass strips with a hole either end) motors will vary by manufacturer but typically should look something like this

Example of a STAR Mode (415V) Connection

Example of a DELTA (220V) Mode Connection

Paul

From an earlier post here

You could run it on an RPC which should be cheaper to make than the cost of an Inverter, that said the inverter will give variable speed and a lovely smooth finish.

As a comparison my Alba 1a has a 1/2hp 3Phase motor and can produce a reallysmooth finish.

My Elliott 10m has a 3/4hp single phase and will not produce the same quality finish no matter how much I tweak the setup/tooling/lubricant.

Similar behaviour from both my single phase Boxford 8" and 7" Atlas.

Regards

Paul

I use the MT2 taper inside the Heads spindle to mount mandrel/s when gearcutting never a chuck.

Paul

Chromed spokes eh these cart wheels are going to be a bit like 1800s Ross Styles lol

Does anyone here sell on Ebid? if so whats your experiences

(apologies to the OP for the OT post)

If you have enough height to centre the tool try it in reverse IMHO you should see a difference.

What kind of parting off tool are you using?

Made some progress with the construction of Steve Ward's (kwackers) rotary table controller got the circuit board soldered up and started on the box it will it in for now.

Yes know what you mean some of the manuals/menu's are like wading through treacle.

So to fix this you could:

Fit a temp sensor on the motor wired to say an Arduino to do two things:

Once it hits "X" temp switch in an external fan you have secreted on the motor

If temp still rises then trigger an E-Stop on the inverter but leaving the external fan running till the temp reaches an acceptable/normal level.

Paul

+1

And if you can smell burning insulation resin it's also time to give it a bit of a rest

Thor,

If I occasionally "jam" the Teco driven Bridgeport it does exactly the same but then it takes a complete shutdown of the inverter for it to recover, iv'e often wondered if this shouldn't be more of an E-Stop type event?

Paul

Sounds good what happens when it gets to the point where it thinks the motor is at risk does it shut it down?

If you fit additional cooling to your slow running 3 phase motor to counteract the temp rise from lack of airflow can you override the setting?

Regards

Paul

The smaller Teco-Westinghouse devices have no current settings either.

How strange... the recommendation to use such a setup came from Dave the chap that owns Drives Direct probably one of the biggest retailers of VFD's in the UK.

Whats dangerous about it then?

I have one Teco 2HP Inverter which has for years been powering various different machines all with different size motors ranging from 1/3 hp to 2 hp with no problems at all.

Swapping machines/motors is done by using a 3 phase socket and plug system.

Paul

Great find your machine looks complete.

Star only motors very often have the star point in the outer layer of one end of the windings this requires the ties cut from the windings pick out the star point separate the wires extend/add some tails and you now have six wires coming out of the motor (Delta).

If you feel adventurous there are a some good books in the Workshop Practice series written by Jim Cox & Graham Asterbury which describe how this is done.

I have done many with great success.

Here you can see the 3 original wires coming from the windings at the back of the pic and at the front the freshly exposed Star Point with the three wires now separated

You could probably find a motor repair shop to do it for you but if you like a challenge.....

Paul