Member postings for _Paul_

Never used it but I see that Rocol also sell "ROCOL ULTRAGLIDE 68" Is that the same?

If it is I wonder with a name like that if it's not some form of T68 spec slideway oil, same stuff I pay £20 a gallon for from The Baltic Oil Works in Newport.

Paul

Ian Bradley's book is OK but IMHO copies seem to be very overpriced, especially for the amount & type of content it also concentrates too heavily on the "Acorn" shaper (7" Atlas clone/copy).

Here are some other tomes you may wish to consider:

• Shaper Job Operations: J.W.Barrit 1937 (reprinted by Lindsay Publications)
• Shapers: Emanuele Stieri 1942 (reprinted by Lindsay Publications)
• Lathe & Shaping Machine Tools "Duplex" 1949 (Tee Publishing)
• Machine Tool Operation Henry D. Burghardt 1922
• Machine Shop Practice K. H. Moltrecht Volume 2 1981

Online you will find Machine Shop Operations & Setups (Chapter 7 I think) which is from "Cincinatti" tools and for a freebie it's very good.

There are many others but I guess these are my favourites.

Paul

There are a few ideas online here's one on the NEMES site

I've not made one (apart from the slitting saw) but from what I read the issue centres around chip clearance, the working area of the saw blade would have to completely exit the work for the chips to clear so to cut a 5" lump of metal you would need a machine with at least a 10" stroke to clear the chips.

It's the same principle as my old Donkey saws both have 14" blades but only have a 6" stroke.

Paul

Edited By _Paul_ on 26/07/2012 12:22:17

Thanks John I'll have to have a dig through my old copies, having started to make the Aloris/PhaseII type I am now sort of commited but I can change that.

You make me quite envious any heat treat I have done is by yours truly and is never as good as I would like

The Shaper can have some "diverse" uses I recently made this it's a slitting saw designed along the lines of Ian Bradley's (from his Shaping Machine book).

You may think this wouldnt have a great many uses but its great for slitting bushes and the like, uses scrap bits of old hacksaw blade as a cutter and unlike a thin lathe/shaper slitting blade it's 1" length means it dosent snap or shatter easily.

Regards

Paul

John

43 holders make my 15 or so look a bit sick I do like your design tho looks like it gives the same grip but easier holder construction.

My homemade ones are from chunks of unknown "scrapbinium" what material did you use any preference?

Paul

I recently made some "Aloris" type toolholders for the AXA toolpost on my old Boxford and had to do some "infernal" dovetails.

In fact nearly all the facets of these were cut on an Elloitt 10M.

Paul

I had almost forgotten about the floor surely it's better to have a good weighty British Shaper holding it down rather than some lightweight import mill?

(Apologies to the OP for the hijack BTW)

OP

It's not all rosy in Shaper Land tho the old saying is "You can make anything on a Shaper except Money" it's probably true as setups certainly need more consideration and can be harder to achieve than the average mill if you see what I mean.

See if you can get someone to show you one working and perhaps even have a go yourself I am sure you will enjoy.

Regards

Paul

£10 does sound a very fair price for sharpening something with that many flights.

My cheapest (bought working) shaper is an Alba 1A cost me £70, include say £5 worth tool steel = £75

Your Dovetail cutter £35 and allow say around 2 sharpens? before it's done = £55

My math favours the Shaper

So assuming our hypothetical dovetail cutter hasn't any chipped teeth and is suitable to sharpen what might that cost for say a 1" 60 degree item including carriage to mainland UK?

So if one isn't armed with the equipment & or ability to sharpen say for arguments sake a very expensive dovetail cutter what do you do with it?

Do you still have one then John ?

To answer the OP yes they are worth having and not just to stop the floor flying away

• Cutting dovetails with lumps of cheap tool steel & not expensive dovetail cutters
• Seeing how far you can make the chips fly down the workshop
• Producing lovely flat surfaces using more lumps of cheap tooling
• The theraputic aspect just watching the thing work implacably away

I am a little biased tho I have five in total so I guess my floor is safe

Paul

Cyril I see from your link Frank uses Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate?) I use Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) with the same effect, I wonder which works faster?

In my experience the downside of using marker pen is I find the fact it will mark the paint on your machine.

Cutting oil certainly does wash it off, WD40 does this faster than Sulphur based and once washed off it finds it way onto the machines paintwork and stays there.

Regards

Paul

If it's flying straight off the pulley/s they must be very badly misaligned?

If I remember correctly did'nt Professor Eric Laithwaite build a model of his precession "engine" using Meccano?

Thats a little more than simple engineering I would say.

Paul

TBH I have never seen another forum with as much clat or as many advertisements surrounding the page as this one...

And you never hear of this kind of problem on the Home Shop Machinist or Mad Modder forums.....

If everything here is all hunky dory then why so many complaints about it?

My 2 pennorth

Paul

@ Michael Cox

Mike, do you have a particular washer pump you could recommend? as I am quietly leaning to towards trying a washer pump setup out it would be nice to start with a "known value".

Do you suffer from corrosion and if so how do you cope with it the reason I ask is that I have a built in suds pump on one of my donkey saws and it always seems to rust the machine no matter how diligently I mop it up.

Regards

Paul

You check the finsh of every metal object you pick up

Put a decent cutting edge on a cheap masonry bit using a diamond sharpening "stone" and it will drill the hardened stainless of the caliper, thats how I fitted the DRO on my ML7 tailstock.

Adrian,

It looks a very well made machine as to it's lineage I would also say possibly Butler or perhaps even Hendey but then I am no expert on American shapers.

IMHO I would lean toward an inverter, you already know how flexible they are, have a look on the Home Workshop site a chap on there (Gavin Oseman) sells competitively priced units.

Steve,

My Teco inverter parameters can be set to stop my mill spindle in what appears to be a turn or less, unfortunately I cant have it set that vicious as the inverter is shared with both my ML7 and Boxford lathes both of which have screw on chucks.

It will stop the shaper quite quickly too not as quick as the mill as it has a bit more inertia to deal with but still quick enough.

Regards

Paul