Member postings for Saxalby

Hi,

Have just checked my Benson VHG, and the screws on mine are 6BA. The knurled heads are 7/16" dia. and just under 3/16" thick.

Regards Barry

John, I thought about that before making my little ring thingy. But had no joy with holding the taper securely while I drilled it.

Regards Barry

I have the same problem on my ME10. Drill chucks and stuff with a tang on the end ejects ok, but the various centres I have dont.

Cant use David Jupps spanner method as the the tail stock spindle does'nt retract into the tailstock casting. Sticks out by about 3/32 or so.

What i did was was machine a ring out of a bit of 1 1/4" steel, bored to slip over the taper (from the small end) and counter bored about 1 1/8" to pass over the tailstock spindle. Hope that descricption makes sense.

Well done that you have a clutch. When I bought my ME10 (new from Boxford) they had stopped offering the clutch as an option.

I am trying to imagine a couple of BSI engineers holding down a badger ( vicious little buggers) while running a surface gauge over its rear end.

Barry

Hi Brian,

Maybe this will help.

http://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/pdfs/BS%2057-1951%20-%20BA%20Screws%20&%20Nuts%20etc.pdf

Barry

Martin beat me to it

Edited By Saxalby on 25/02/2014 09:47:07

I originally bolted my both my Boxfords to the floor. But when I moved I could not decide on the best location for the machines, so opted to mount them all on adjustable machine mounts. I have not noticed any detrimental affects on either the lathes or milling machine.

Finally getting a good finish.

Used Grahams tip of marking the wheel surface with a felt tip and them dressing the wheel as he suggested.

Again many thanks.

Thank you all for your hints and tips. Will try again tomorrow.

The spare wheels were bought from the USA, and specified for use on a small tool post grinder. Will bare in mind what has been said about dressing the wheels. Think the problem may well be there. The punches are round shank (roll of bench type) so are being help firmly in collets.

Blowlamp, No the surface is not burnt or burnished.

Graham, you get such a wonderful finish, if all else fails I will send them to you.

I recently acquired a Boxford "Little Giant" toolpost grinder, but I am having no luck getting a smooth ground finish. Both the lathe and grinder spindles have no "play" in them. I have tried both the original wheel that came with it, (quite coarse, probably 60 grit), and some new 100 and 200 grit wheels I bought. Wheels were trued up with a diamond dresser.

How should one run the lathe, fast or slow, with or against the grinder rotation.

At the moment just trying to grind a nice point on some old centre punches and scribes. Any help would be appreciated.

If you need to move the saddle by small amounts, why not get yourself one of the Boxford saddle stops. Often appear on e-bay.

Or make one as I did

Edited By Saxalby on 05/02/2014 19:54:00

There are two 26TPI series of threads.

BSB (British Standard Brass) with 55deg thread and the BSC (British Standard Cycle) with 60deg thread.

Barry

I have never seen ME thread studding.

What is the project that specifically requires this size. 2BA studding is available, very slightly smaller and approx 32 TPI. Would that not suffice.

Barry

I thought we were talking about the camera mounting thread.

Check my head again and the clamp thread is indeed a 2 start thread 10mm X 1.5mm pitch 3mm Lead

Barry

Hi Russell,

It is identical to one i bought from either Chronos or Millhill Supplies many years ago. Mine is a 4 inch and like yours very smooth action with virtually no backlash even after many years use. Modified mine with a small thrust bearing, and a larger handle, the original was a bit small. Also mine has just a plain 1/2 inch centre hole.

Barry

I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that John had the 3C collets but the nose piece had gone missing. I agree that the 3C are limited to 1/2 inch. I bought my 3C with the lathe when new, but later bought a Bison 5C collet chuck, which takes collets up to 1 1/8 inch. Much more useful, and the cost of 3C are no cheaper than 5C.

I still use the 3C a lot as it is quicker to spin the drawbar than the key on the 5C chuck, and have a set of BA hex collets for it.

If anyone still wants the sizes for the 3C nose piece, just let me know.

John,

If you mean the (for the AUD) the 3MT to 3C collet nose adapter, then I can let you have a photo and dimensions. I made one for friends Boxford. Not a difficult job.

Regards Barry

I was bought a 16mm shank threading tool and tips at a boot sale only to realise I could not get it low enough in my toolholder. The shank was not hardened but was very tough. I used a grinder to take of 4 or 5 mm and then milled of the last fraction to get a nice flat bottom.

Barry

I moved to Portugal a while ago and live in a quiet rural location in the Algarve. While there is little if any criminal activity from the Portuguese there is some problem with east European immigrants.

We had a system installed by Securitas. They operate over most of Europe, so would be supprised if not in the UK.

Its a wireless system with all doors (inc workshop) fitted with magnetic sensors. Inside the house there are motion detectors and two cameras. Once the system is activated by either by code or the magnetic key fob any door opened will activate the cameras and audio alarm. At the same time the Securitas HQ is notified by cell net connection of possible intruder. They call me on mobile to check if not accidental activation, they can deactivate the alar If I give a pre-arranged code word. If its real or I can't be contacted they notify local GNR (police). Camera start sending piccies at same moment alarm is set off.

Had it set of once when someone was trying to force the back doors and it set of the motion detector inside the house, and camera took a nice picture of them looking in through the glass doors. GNR nabbed them walking down the road back into town. No damage was done by them, but nice to know the system works.

At night I can activate just the workshop alarm. All the wireless sensors etc handshake with the main control box and if there is a fault they call me and arrange a technician to come and fix it.

Barry

Hi,

I have used the button type inserts on my Boxford shaper, and was very pleased with the finish it gave on cast iron and steel. Used it for a finish cut rather than getting under any 'skin'.

Barry