Member postings for Simon Collier

I had to find a large bit of pipe, a lathe faceplate, a spacer and a bit of tube the right diameter to bear against the bearing inner race in order to drive the front bearing onto its interference. For this, hammering on the spindle end, with a block of wood between, seemed the only way.

This is the damaged bearing that caused all the trouble. Ignorance resulting in the used of a too small spacer which was pushing against the roller cage.

This shows the method, with a wheel spreading the force on the front inside casting. You can see one of the pin punch holes on the left side near the spanner.

I have finished the job and the lathe is back in service. I used a length of 12 mm threaded rod with various diameter lengths of pipe and tubes, some of which had to be cut and faced and one bored. The biggest headache was how to get out the old bearing outer race cones. There are two holes 180 degrees apart in the casting through to the cone seat so a pin punch can be used, but only a 3 mm pin would fit through the holes so I cut the shank of a 3 mm drill and used a 4lb hammer head, with my finger through the handle hole to hit the pin. There was precious little swing room in the spindle cavity, but I managed to get the front cone moving and turned up some longer pins to get it all the way out. The rear cone however was not going to move, especially as the backgear was in danger of being hit with the hammer. I tried to get a gear puller in behind the cone but it couldn't grab. Eventually I tried cutting a big washer into quarters and poking it in behind the cone where it could engage by just a mm or two. I then used a pusher. I thought I would have to screw the segments to the pusher, hence the holes, but friction sufficed, and after a couple of frustrating days trying to come up with a solution, the cone started to move.

I did that to get the spindle out so I'll work out a way to reverse the procedure. It was very hard indeed to get the Woodruff keys out, especially the bull gear one. I mashed it a little but filed the burrs off. When a tight fitting part has been in place since about 1974, it does not want to move! I think it should go back a lot easier. What's the bet that with all these worries, on assembly I forget to put the new belt over the pulleys? A bloke on U-tube did just that and there was much "railway esperanto".

I've ordered the bearings and cones from CBC. I am fairly confident about replacing the cones. What I am worried about is reassembling the spindle, especially pushing the bull wheel onto its key within the confines of the headstock casting. The videos I was watching didn't show this bit to my great disappointment. I suppose I'll work it out. At least I can make tools on my other lathe.

I promise I won’t be removing it again assuming I can obtain the bearings and get it back together, which I expect to be at least as difficult. Yes, the roller cage was bent. It’s too depressing to take a picture of.

Encouraged by Paul's comments above, and I remember that he has a Hercus himself, I decided to study up and remove the spindle. I watched several utube videos on Southbends, Atlas and finally found one doing a Hercus AR like my ARL, but he was finding his way and working it out as he went, so not a great teacher. Finally this afternoon after two days, I got the spindle out, but destroyed the front taper roller bearing. I used threaded rod and a spacer I made from steel pipe on the other lathe, as shown in some of the videos, but at some point the force must have been against the bearing and it was bent. It is still on the spindle and pushing it off will require another special tool to be made. At this point I really wish I had bought the link belt. It is obvious from the paint across joints that the spindle has never been removed before.

They have gone mad here in NSW. The law makes no distinction between a real gun and a replica, or indeed a plastic toy. Last week a young gaming nerd was prosecuted for 3D printing a replica gun from his favourite computer game. They went easy on him: one year, fully suspended.

It is not always possible but I prefer to make screw in seats I can face in the lathe. The finish left by my D bits is never satisfying.

Thanks for replies. I must check the pulleys as I remember from the specs that the minimum is 80 mm. I did have a look at videos but there are many variations. I would have to find one like mine. It is an ARL with roller bearings on the spindle. I do have the Hercus book showing the parts. The old ruined belt works fine, but I mostly use this lathe for small brass steam fittings, so it is hardly working.

The belt on my Hercus lathe is delaminating and turning into a tar like goo. I intend to replace it with the type of link belt in the title, the red ones. I have read all posts on link belts I could find and unsurprisingly, opinions differ. Any advice or opinions please? I don't want to dismantle the shafts to fit a normal belt as I would have to learn how first and I have enough to do.

It is pretty crude but we just go on the look and feel of the inside of the chimney after running our locos for 10 minutes or so. After swiping my finger inside, I want to see and feel a greasy deposit. If too dry and grey looking, I conclude under oiling. If spewing oil all over the engine and the chimney inside is really wet looking, it is over oiling. Also the rate at which the lubricator tank goes down is a guide. I have no experience of TEs or fire engines but plenty on this forum do. Their long chimneys might confuse matters somewhat.

I got my Sept-Oct issue of AME today and it is to be the last issue sold in newsagents. Distribution costs have gone up to the point of making a loss, so subscription only. That means no accidental discovery of the hobby while browsing.

Our big supplier, Hare and Forbes Machinery House, now have less model engineering stuff and more emphasis on car restoration stuff. They are just following the demand.

Yes, a split bush made from nylon rod should do the job. What do you want to do to the part, drill it?

You need n+1 tool holders.

Concurrent series on turning for beginners in ME and MEW says it all. There is probably sufficient good content for one magazine, not three. I do like the full colour, high quality photos in the modern magazines though. My enjoyment of the old magazines and books is limited by the grainy, unclear black and white photos. I take only ME now and may not renew.

I agree with Jason, the tool looks blunt, in fact the cutting edge looks rounded. You are no stoning the cutting edge by mistake by any chance?

Engine 143.