Member postings for The Merry Miller

Grizzly,

I have several routers but as I said earlier most of the router cutters are clapped and I have numerous carbide faced cutters for proper woodwork.

I am contemplating building a woodworkers workshop in the garden where I can get stuck into my windsor chaimaking again, as it is at the moment woodworking is out because engineering takes priority. I can't even get to my carpenters bench through lack of space.

Len. P.

Afternoon all,

I have had come into my possession hundreds of router bits from the woodworking industry. They are all single flute cutters and are mostly marked "Interwood SHS".

They are mostly clapped out from a woodworking aspect and there are many different shank sizes ranging from .250"-.500" dia.

The cutting blades range from .062"-750" in dia. and the cutting lengths go up to 1.5".

Now I could possibly modify a vast number into acceptable boring bits or something else, suggestions would be very welcome, but before I do, I need to establish what grade of steel SHS is and whether it would be suitable for boring or other activities on the lathe.

I would appreciate some comments please.

P.S. I did adapt one several months ago and it did work very well as a bowl turning gouge on my woodturning lathe.

Len. P.

I

I've just checked mine.

The grubscrew is reduced in diameter at the end and forms the rotation stop for the collets.

The rest of it is, as Nigel's is, a completely integrated body and taper.

Len. P.

I'm amazed that you were still at grammar school last year Gray, I imagined you being almost as old as me and I was there in the early '50's.

Len. P.

P.S. Weren't those rubbers hard!!!

Edited By The Merry Miller on 21/10/2012 16:18:24

Shirley not.

Neil,

How my old eyes lit up when I saw your mention of the Claude Butler.

I bought my lightweight version in 1953 to cycle to work from Forest Gate to Limehouse every day (most weekends included).

I converted almost every part of it (apart from the frame)

GB brakes, centre-pull.

Maes bends handlebars with extended stem.

Brooks ultra slim leather racing saddle.

27" x 1.25" lightweight wheels with large flange hubs and quick release mechanisms.

Palmer tyres.

Campag double-clanger and derailleur gears.

I really loved that bike and almost cried when I sold it in 1960 for £4 (yes £4) when I bought my first motor bike.

Sorry to digress lads, couldn't help it.

Len. P.

First visit to the Forncett museum.

Very impressed with what was on show and the grandsons' thought it was really "cool" especially the steam boats.

Will definitely go again next year.

Len.P.

I've been meaning to ask this for some time.

Why is it that some images when clicked upon go full screen while others like John S's beautiful workshop stay as posted???.

Len. P.

Noticing the amount of foreign rubbish (could not think of the proper word, sorry) entering the country, there will be a massive requirement for maintenance engineers in the near future.

I'm pleased in a way because my grandson has just started his second year of a "Maintenance Engineering Apprenticeship" and it will ensure he will never be short of work.

Len. P.

Ian, it might be worth you upgrading to IE9, it may sort out your problems.

Not that I have any using Firefox

Len.P.

Thanks for that info. Ted.

When I converted my Tom Senior (using an Omrom VFD from E-bay, brand new it was as well) I made up a circular scale divided in a linear proportion scaling readout frequency (0-50Hz) against motor speed (1380rpm) in 5Hz bites. That worked out quite well but the digital display sounds interesting, I'll have to research that one Ted.

I also did use the SY cable but didn't find the need for an filter.

Incidentally the VFD to go on the Myford is an Altivar 11, again brand new from E-bay, £41 quid I think I won it for.

I've just got to finish modifying the motor housing which had a reduction gearbox attached to it and sleeve the motor spindle from 12mm to 5/8" and lastly adapt the body to give the same foot mounting arrangement.

Len. P.

Have sent you a reply Kwil.

Len.

Evening all,

I've searched for a similar thread on this forum without success so here goes.

I'm looking to convert my ML7-R to variable speed in the not to distant future. I have all the gear ready to go but would like to hear about other peoples' experience's.

I'm concerned about the possible loss of torque at the lower end of the speed range although I realise that the backgears should make up for some loss.

Any comments would be appreciated in particular from those who have already carried out the conversion.

Len. P.

Well I'm goin to stir up a hornets nest now, I think)

We are hearing a lot just lately about the length of Paralympic athlete blades like Oscar uses.

Nobody seems to mention the characteristics of the leaf springs which could possibly vary considerably and thus give some athletes more of an advantage than the length of the springs.

I don't know if there are standards for blade deflections etc that they all have to conform to but the speed and bounce that some of these athletes have aquired when sailing through the field makes the mind boggle.

Look at the Brit in the 200m, Richard Whitehead, they way he sailed through the field on his blades defied belief.

Comments please on leafspring characteristics would be welcome!!

Len. P.

I've had some incredible bargains off Ebay and some also from the tool stall in Bury St Edmunds market (Saturday only).

Ignoring the unbranded versions that abound, the normal, most popular selections no doubt would be from the following:

Verdict, Mercer, Baty, Mitutoyo and Starrett. I must admit I haven't seen a Starrett version on Ebay

There are more expensive versions available but their names escape me at the moment.

Also they are available as Dial Test Indicators (DTI's -lever type) or the bog standard (sorry Bogs)

Dial gauge, (Plunger type)

Len. P.

Edited By The Merry Miller on 31/08/2012 14:07:58

Peter E,

Clicking on either of your links comes up with " Page not found "

Any chance of checking it out?

Len. P.

Designed just for women!!

Len. P.

David, below are some links to the American "tubalcain" (no space between tubal and cain)

Some of his videos are reasonable, and he has a room in his house stuffed with steam engines of all varieties.

Len. P.

**LINK**

**LINK**

Michael,

When I started my S50, (I'm more than halfway through at the moment) I discovered a brilliant article by Tubal Cain on the build of the S50. It's in the form of a 28 page PDF which I discovered on Google.

It's a fantastic article and was originally published in the "Model Engineer" starting on 21 August 1992.

I suggest you download this article and then all or most of your troubles will be answered.

Avoid the American " Tubal Cain" for this article.

I've tried retracing the link to the article download with no joy but so many people on this forum have made reference to it and have built it no doubt somebody will step forward with help on locating it.

Best of luck.

Len. P.

P.S. The con-rod is tapered throughout, not just on one side, study the drawing again.

Don't move the tailstock, use the topslide for the taper. The rounded ends are normally done with "buttons" as the article explains. Much better than trying to do it by freehand filing.

Gordon,

If the bowls (woods) are made of Lignum Vitae as many old one's were, it would be (in my eyes) sacrilegious to chop off little bits.

The classic conversion for these woods is for woodcarving mallets, these old woods are like gold dust at the moment.

Spindle speeds for normal wood turning lathes are nowhere near the speeds of conventional routers of which as you are now aware. My routers go up to about 30,000 rpm.

My large wood turning lathe is variable speed up to a maximum of about 2800 rpm and my small wood turning lathe for miniature work is variable up to 3200 rpm.

Your maximum lathe spindle speed is fine but your really should use a hand rest and proper HSS woodturning tools for best results. Ideally you try and get an hour or so tuition from a local friendly woodturner or come to that there must be many Youtube videos that show you the basics.

Finally people will try and put the frighteners on you about using what is known as a skew chisel, this will give you the best finish on cylinders but be prepared for some digins and always wear your safety glasses.

One of the best books on woodturning for beginners I read when I first started many years ago was called "Turning Wood" by Richard Raffan, he has written many books and you may well get some from your local library.

Best of luck.

Len. P.