Here is a list of all the postings Keith Wood 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: X2 Mini Mill - Motor Armature |
18/07/2018 15:29:05 |
Neil I think you have clarified the situation. Maybe the armature manufacturer sent the incorrect ones to my supplier. I will relay this information to them. Best regards. Keith Wood |
18/07/2018 15:20:12 |
John Yes, mains supply is 110v. The armature was supplied by a supplier in the US and I believe all the motors use around 90vDC supplied from the controller. Maybe you are correct. Regards. Keith
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18/07/2018 14:51:59 |
After many years of good service, the DC motor on my X2 mini mill started its periodic popping and arcing. Upon stripping the motor I found the commutator grooved so I skimmed it in the lathe, after finishing the clean up I noticed that there was no meat left for another future skim. I purchased a brand new armature and installed it in the old casing, installing a new set of carbon brushes. After re-installation and power on I noticed that the motor ran up to speed well but was not stable speed wise, also there is no torque on start up and minimal torque during running. I re-installed the old cleaned up armature in order to troubleshoot and there is plenty of torque and the speed is stable. I checked the new armature with a multimeter, the 180 degree check between segments shows good. The adjacent segment check shows good and the individual segment to laminates shows good. Anybody any ideas. I have since purchased a new motor and will keep the old motor with skimmed armature as a spare. Thanks Keith Wood Montreal |
Thread: Where can I get this hole aligning tool |
26/04/2018 15:08:41 |
Sam They are standard aerospace assembly devices know as skinpins, clecos, etc. Aerospace supplies should stock them see skinpins.com Regards.
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Thread: Article Suggestion "White Elephant & Why" |
15/11/2017 17:25:03 |
Tailstock turret, poor locking feature and atrocious alignment, managed to salvage the die holder. |
Thread: 5BA Steel washers |
21/11/2016 18:13:10 |
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am finishing a partially completed loco so all the existing fasteners are BA, a change to metric is not possible. As for turning down the large washers, this is possible, unfortunately the large washers are about 3 times thicker than the ones I used to buy. Many of the screws and bolts are visible so the thinner, smaller washers would be perfect. My guess is that suppliers are substituting the M3 washers for the older 5BA washers due to availability. Thanks Keith Wood |
21/11/2016 15:03:38 |
Hi Does anyone still supply the smaller outside diameter 5BA steel washers ?, all my latest deliveries I have received from the UK suppliers have been washers of a larger diameter, say around 0.25" (6.2mm) . The 5BA washers I used to buy were smaller in diameter and thinner. Help please. Keith Wood Montreal |
Thread: Black 5 blast pipe |
17/05/2016 13:13:10 |
From my experience and based upon info on the John Baguley website, the blast nozzle orifice diameter should be one seventh 1/7 of the cylinder diameter, so 0.232" for 1 5/8 cylinders. For nozzle height, research blast cone angles on the web, many people use a 1 in 3 cone and 1 in 6 cone geometry, the 1 in 3 cone should intersect the petticoat pipe and the 1 in 6 cone should intersect the stack or chimney. Works for me. Keith Wood Montreal Live Steamers |
Thread: Which lathe does this thread dial indicator come from? |
17/03/2016 14:38:18 |
Hi From what I can see it comes off a standard Asian 920 lathe supplied by many companies.
Regards. Keith Wood Montreal
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Thread: Broken tap removal |
22/03/2012 17:18:03 |
I would go with the alum, I removed three broken 8ba taps from some bronze cylinders, placed the cylinders in a pan of saturated alum solution on the stove and simmered, add a spot of water as the solution evaporates. Two hours and they were gone. Alum is cheap and leaves the copper/bronze untouched. Keith W |
Thread: Sheet Metal Folder |
04/08/2011 12:14:30 |
Keith
I purchased the 12" wide 3in1 machine.
It will not cut steel over 0.020" thick.
It bends to approx 95 degress bend through angle.
My guess is that the wider the machine the more flexible the blade.
Keith W
Montreal
Canada |
Thread: Japanese Model Engineer |
15/04/2011 15:26:27 |
http://ww3.tiki.ne.jp/~hwata/index_e.html |
Thread: A beginners locomotive |
28/04/2010 14:45:50 |
Hi Vincent
I started off building a Rob Roy and progressed onto a Lifford Hall 4-6-0.
What I discovered is that the smaller the loco the harder it is to run, smaller boiler & firebox.
If your interest is building only start with something smaller such as a Rob Roy, If you intend to run a lot then something medium sized such as Maisie of Caribou would be better.
I would recommend having at least an axle pump plus an injector on any model loco you build.
Best regards.
Keith
Montreal Canada |
Thread: Has anyone any experience of HQSS tools – notably taps and dies? |
17/03/2010 11:58:25 |
I have purchased taps and dies from tapdie.com for years.
They provide a good product (equivalent to HSS) at a good price and the service is allways top notch.
If you look at the taps, the quality of the machining is very good, generous root radii and good ident stamping.
Recently I had the unfortunate experience to snap one of my HQSS taps (8BA) in a bronze cylinder (rushing as usual), I had also broken a HSS drill in an adjacent hole.
I used the heated ALUM trick, it took around 4 shours of simmering on the stove to dissolve the HSS drill and roughly double the time to dissolve the tap.
I would recommend the products.
Keith W.
Montreal
Canada
|
17/03/2010 11:57:37 |
I have purchased taps and dies from tapdie.com for years.
They provide a good product (equivalent to HSS) at a good price and the service is allways top notch.
If you look at the taps, the quality of the machining is very good, generous root radii and good ident stamping.
Recently I had the unfortunate experience to snap one of my HQSS taps (8BA) in a bronze cylinder (rushing as usual), I had also broken a HSS drill in an adjacent hole.
I used the heated ALUM trick, it took around 4 shours of simmering on the stove to dissolve the HSS drill and roughly double the time to dissolve the tap.
I would recommend the products.
Keith W.
Montreal
Canada
|
Thread: Cotswold Heritage Stothert and Pitt |
02/12/2009 17:20:05 |
Newbie Here
I built one a number of years ago, the castings were superb and it came with all the bar materials and even the wood for the cleading.
The specified threads are metric so you better buy a tap and die set from 1.6mm and up.
I purchase my fasteners from a marine company, non of the normal suppliers stocked metric to such a small size.
Chronos used to sell a nice set.
Enjoy yourself. |
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