Member postings for Nicholas Farr

Hi, I agree with Redsetter, the size of the hole isn't critical, though you don't want it to be a snug fit on the drawing pin and a small clearance is needed. The important bit is the length of the nose inside the gun, too short and you won't get the drawing pin in, too long and it won't grip the drawing pin, or you will lose some pulling length on the drawing pin. Like pgk says, you can make your own, as they are not difficult to do.

Regards Nick.

Hi Sam Longley 1, I expect my father told me what the big H meant, but I do remember my big brother explaining what the numbers meant when I was about 6 years old.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 12/09/2022 08:09:46

Hi Speedy Builder5, in "Fire hydrant signs - a successful metric conversion" in the link in my above post, it says most in the UK were changed in the ten years after 1975.

Regards Nick.

Hi, much information about them Fire Hydrant Sign (google) I've seen that report about people who didn't know what they were for. They have been around ever since I can remember when I were a kid, but they used to be on a white background back then and I have seen them just attached to a brick wall.

Regards Nick.

Hi Matthew, if someone has for some reason, used high strength retainer (Loctite 638 or equivalent for instance) to hold it in, you will probably need to heat it up to about 250 C with your wedges in place, as it would have to be removed while hot.

Regards Nick.

Hi, after taking delivery of a Warco 4-1/2" universal bandsaw at their current 30% discount price early yesterday afternoon and getting it into my garage, unpacking and checking all the parts were there and undamaged, reading through the user manual, I set about building the stand and fixing it to the saw. Today I completed the task of setting it up and giving it a try. Firstly, I had it in the vertical position with the table fixed in position, marked two lines from the end of a scrap piece of aluminium channel to a hole and cut a slot the width of the hole, which worked a treat.

I then put it in the horizontal mode and cut a short length off the same end, which also work a treat.

OK it's not in the same league as industrial bandsaws that I've used in my working years, but I believe it will serve well for my work in my garage.

Regards Nick.

Hi Mick, a lot of people will have many different ideas about the subject of moving and what to take or dump. At the end of the day though, it is only yourself that should decide whether you should get rid of stuff, but the main thing is to put things in order of your own importance and starting with what you definitely wish to keep and will be able to accommodate in your new workshop and whittle it down to things you can be sure that you can discard.

Regards Nick.

Hi, I was thinking much the same as Martin (Blowlamp) if we get many summers like the one we've just had and all the grass turns brown, will they have to suspend using the gas until they can harvest a new crop of grass. I suppose the fuel used in the harvest is in the carbon equation? I haven't read all of their statement.

Regards Nick.

Hi, I've only got a few 125mm x 1mm Tyrolit ones left, but I also have one 115 x 1mm Craft-Pro by Presto left from a tin of 10, which I bought from that Aerospace Surplus Trader at the last Midlands exhibition at a reasonable price and are also very good and I do have a box of 10 from Aldi's, which they were selling at a clearance price of about £4.00, but I haven't tried them yet, but have had some from them before and were OK. Years ago when 4" angle grinders became popular in industry, cutting disc were 3mm thick, these were a bit of a nightmare to use on building wall and roof cladding profiled sheets unlike the 1mm ones, which make cutting all sheet metal much easier to do, although when cutting aluminium, it's best to get those that are designed for ally as standard discs tend to clog up and burr the cut edges.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 03/09/2022 12:45:21

Hi, an illustration in Buck & Hickman Ltd 1964 catalogue, tells basically how it is used.

Regards Nick.

Hi John, you could always try these or similar, but they do cost a bob or two more than a standard type of disc Norton Multi-Materiel Cutting

We used standard type Tyrolit make Tyrolit and Dronco make Dronco in my last day job that I had and they always faired very well.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 03/09/2022 07:00:04

Edited By JasonB on 03/09/2022 13:05:07

Hi, as Noel has said, let the disc do the work, forcing the disc to cut faster by applying too much pressure, actually takes longer to make the cut because it will slow down the peripheral speed of the disc, which in turn destroys the disc into dust and as the disc gets smaller in diameter the process of destruction gets faster, so less pressure on the disc should be used as it wears down in normal use. Slowing down the peripheral speed of any make of disc will shorten its life.

Regards Nick.

Hi Terry, $#it happens, but I would investigate Noel's idea, although you will probably have to take the back end off to get all of the bare wires covered, shouldn't be too difficult to do, just take photos of each stage so you can put all back together correctly.

Regards Nick.

Hi Chris, good to hear you have a successful result.

Regards Nick.

Hi, I thought about the cord idea that John Fletcher 1 suggests, after my edit window expired in my previous post. this will give you more time to switch on after spinning up the motor, but do make sure the cord is completely off and out of the way of the pulley/shaft before you press the start button.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 25/08/2022 15:10:58

Hi Chris, I definitely think your motor has been reassembled incorrectly, which may account for it having a bit of resistance in one place, where things are not correctly inline.

Regards Nick.

Hi Terry, does it always go the wrong way when you start it now? You could try removing the belt from the motor and spin the motor in the right direction and keeping fingers and thumbs out of the way and then start it before it stops turning, if it then runs the right way, it is probable that the start circuit has failed in the winding, a loose wire or a faulty centrifugal switch or brushes that Dave Halford has mentioned, not making contact anymore. If when you do start it without turning before hand and sometimes it goes one way and sometimes it goes the other way, that would also indicate a fault in the starting circuit.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 25/08/2022 11:38:02

Hi Chris, this is the only help I can give you.

Regards Nick

Hi Terry, it looks very similar to my late father's RandA lathe, with a mixture of RandA and Myford change gears. The RandA change gears just having a single hole for driving them, while Myford's have a key way. The faceplate is the same design as my father's, but yours has a cross slide whereas my father's one doesn't.

It could though, be any of those badged in lathes.co.uk/randa

Regards Nick.

Hi Hopper, I have not denied the endless possibilities, however out of all the millions of sperm that could have fertilised the egg that I developed from, only one did and that could only have happened at the time and place it did, any other sperm or time and place would have resulted in someone else. I know that fertilised eggs can produce identical twins etc. but even they are not 100% identical in mind or body. I don't believe in the so called "parallel universe's" concept, but even if they do exist, I'm not in any of them. Now I'm also not denying that other universe's don't exists as "Space" has no dimension and we will probably never know if there are any and of course their physics could be totally different to ours.

Regards Nick.