Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Farr has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: The HobbyMat BFE 65 again |
15/07/2010 13:31:57 |
Hi again, the black circular gadgit that you mention is e1 on Joe's diagram and is a thermal over load that takes at least 10 seconds to reset acording to the user manual instructions.
regards Nick. |
Thread: Cover Change |
15/07/2010 13:13:40 |
Yes I noticed the shiny cover, maybe we shouldn't alert those who don't like them. I myself have no real preference. However, I can't tell the difference mentioned about the index pages.
Nick. Edited By Kelvin Barber on 31/08/2010 13:23:58 |
Thread: The HobbyMat BFE 65 again |
15/07/2010 12:34:43 |
Hi, the circuit diagram that Joe has posted for his Prazi is exactly the same as printed in the user manual that I have for the Hobbymat BFE 65.
Regards Nick |
Thread: Advice for first time visitor to Harrogate Show |
03/05/2010 22:37:21 |
Hi John, I agree with the majority that it is a really good show, I’ve been going to it for several years now but I don’t have a grey or any other coloured beard, bulletproof vest or a rucksack. I am also going on Saturday and have a 150 mile trek and probably won’t get there until midday when most of the big crowds are starting to go home with their rucksacks and long bits of metal. If you really want something in particular it is best to contact the supplier/s you have in mind in advance as they will usually reserve it for you, but you must do that ASAP (like yesterday) it may be too late already, but there is no harm in enquiring. Have an enjoyable day all whichever day/s you are going. Nick. |
Thread: Can Anyone Name this Engine? |
20/04/2010 21:50:31 |
Hi, it looks a lot like a Briggs & Stratton engine I once had on my cement mixer. You should be able to find a number on it somewhere, then if you go onto www.briggsandstratton.com and then click on customer support at the top and then on the engines icon and then there are links to manuals and downloads for illistrated parts etc. Just pop the number into the search box and if it is one of thiers it should come up with the imfo you need. Hope this is of help regards Nick. |
Thread: MEW 162 - Phoenix Battery Drills |
20/03/2010 11:56:36 |
Like most people I was horrified to see mains plugs/sockets being used on battery drills and imagining the danger if it was inadvertently plugged into the mains. I like many others I have experimented using things that were not specifically designed for the use that I have put them to. In your article I believe that photo 1 would suffice to show the first trial of this experiment along with a little text explanation. However pictures are remembered better than words and some people don’t even read the words. (Most self assembly instructions are in pictures with very few words these days) To see several close up pictures of mains plugs being fitted and wired I believe is a bad idea, as some people will see the photo and think that’s a good idea and believe they have enough info to complete their own interpretation without even thinking of the potential hazards. You can argue all you like about the do’s and don’ts and so called idiots in the workshop, but however clever or intelligent you are we all make stupid mistakes, ever picked up a piece of metal shortly after you’ve just welded it, ever chopped the end off your tape measure in the guillotine, ever made a pot of tea and forgot to put the teabag in, ect, ect, we all need a little idiot proofing now and again. As it has already been mentioned, it is those who follow us, e.g. children who may not be familiar with what we modify that may be heading for a disaster. In these days of no win no fee, idiot proof safety or otherwise is something we should consider. Nick.
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Thread: HTS Bolts |
01/01/2010 15:07:55 |
Hi Meyrick, your theories may be correct (never could get my head round all of the bolt science) but I have been using nuts and bolts of all sorts of sizes tensile strenths materials etc. in industry for over 40 years and in my experience I have found that softer bolts using the same torque settings as higher tensile bolts streach and thin on thier shanks more before they creep, fracture or become useless. The point I was trying to make is that it is better to use softer bolts on T slots rather than HT bolts. As most people have not had the experianceof the damage HT bolts can do when not used properly and a lot of people use tubes etc. on thier spanners to try and get it tighter. Remember a bolt/stud has to streach within its yield limit to work properly. I believe it has already been said that it is better to use as many claps as possible and practical rather than one or two very or overly tight ones. Nick. |
01/01/2010 13:34:14 |
All bolts should streach a tad during thier application, all be it by a few microns. This is how they work. You can imagin them as solid springs, but as with springs they all have different tensile strengths. When springs are streched beyond thier design limit, that is thier yield stress, they will not return to the original length. The same is true with bolts. HTS bolts will streach less than soft bolts, but will have a much higher yield stress. I would not recommend any HTS bolt higher 8.8 to be used in T slots as the yield stress of 8.8 bolts and above would probably be above that of the T slot. A grade of 4.6 would probably suffice in most cases, where as soft MS bolts do seem to keep on streaching and the threads distort with continued use. I also agree that using bolt heads in T slots is asking for trouble as well as allowing studs to protrode through T nuts. Nick |
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