Member postings for John C

I have had Brian Caddy regrind a Myford S7 bed and saddle. His work is first class. No connection etc.

Rainbows: Unless you have a specific need for carbide tooling, I wouldn't bother. Spend your hard-earned on a tangential holder instead (no connection, etc). As you an see from the replies above, there are so many carbide tips for industrial applications that you could go mad trying to decipher what it is you are looking at. By the time you have bought a shank and a few unknown tips you will have spent more than the cost of a tangential, although the initial price of these looks somewhat offputting! And, as has been pointed out many times in these hallowed pages, carbide tips generally need industrial speeds and feeds to work properly.

Just my own thoughts. And, yes, I have a tangential tool holder which I use for 99.9% of my work.

Rgds,

John

Hi Andy,

I have one of these chucks. I did post photos of a disassembled one, but will happily post some more if I can help.

Yours,

John

edited due fat fingers!

Edited By John C on 07/09/2015 20:38:01

Some interesting offers from MSC here:

http://dirxion.mscdirect.com/ukadvantage/aug/app.php?RelId=6.5.7.4

No connection etc.

Edited By John Stevenson on 21/08/2015 12:44:28

May I suggest using a tangential toolholder? There are lots of posts out in internetshire about this device, but it removes a lot of the mystery and magic of toolgrinding. I use holders from the Antipodean advertiser to the right of these posts - no connection, just a satisfied UK customer.

Edited By John C on 09/08/2015 14:31:31

I was fortunate enough to acquire an Alfred Herbert surface grinder and I would like to find out more about the machine - there is no manual and a search of t'interweb gives no results.

Does anyone recognise the machine? 

Thanks in advance,

John

Edit - sorted photo out!

Edited By John Corden on 18/07/2015 09:17:40

Ian,

I wouldn't bother taking them apart. A good lashing of WD 40 or similar will cure the stiffness. Follow up with some general purpose oil. The forces involved in their use will easily overcome any perceived stiffness.

Rgds,
John

Give them a ring?

http://www.tankmuseum.org/contact-details

Cable ties? Have a look at 'step 3'.

http://www.cableorganizer.com/adhesive-heat-shrink-tape/

John

I have one of the cheaper 5C chucks, although not with the split line that Bogs mentions. Mine runs very true indeed and gets used a lot, more than the 3 jaw in fact. The great advantage I find is the ability to grip short lengths - something which ER collets struggle with.

John

Thanks Kwil,

I think that the bearing fit on the spindle may be a factor. I will try something like you mention.

Rgds,

John

Thanks Nick and Phil.

The spindle runs quite feely when free wheeling, between gears, but will not continue to spin once let go. There is no notchiness in the bearings. Running at max speed for 30 mins brings the front bearing cover up to warm only.

Phil - I think what you suggest is correct - the shaft is not moving relative to the bearings to increase the pre load. I shall have another go using a bit more persuasion.

Thanks again,

John

Thanks Nick, much appreciated! Unfortunately this confirms the previous results - my spindle has too much play! I will have a think about what direction to go now. Point taken about the bearings, but something is clearly too loose at the moment.

With your gearbox set to 1000 rpm, lathe switched off, does the spindle rotate freely by hand, or is there some drag or 'stiction'?

Thanks again,

John

hi nick,

Thanks very much for that. I didn't make my description clear - the +/- half thou movement is with the spindle stationary.

I am very happy to be realistic - but if I can improve the spindle play I will be happier! With any spindle play the spindle will deflect away from the cut depending on the load applied, which makes chasing really accurate sizes somewhat hit and miss.

Could you see how much your spindle deflects with sideways load when stationary?

many thanks,

John

Morning All,

I have a Boxford STS 10 -20 which is in generally good condition. However, if I put a dial indicator on the side of the spindle nose and push and pull the spindle at right angles to the spindle bore, I get plus/minus 0.0005 (13 microns) movement indicated.

I asked this on the Boxford user group and got a reply with +/- 'a couple of microns', which was more like I would expect.

I tried adjusting the bearing pre load in accordance with the manual, but this seemed to make no difference.

Is this play in the spindle normal. and has anyone had success in reducing this play?

many thanks,

John

Ok, got it thanks Jason.

John

Jason,

The message is in my 'sent' box but is unread. The e-mail sent using the link in the advert does not show up in my e-mail sent folder.

Rgds,

John

I too am not convinced the mail system is working. It has in the past, but there is no indication that the mail has been sent.

Hi Joseph,

I have messaged and e-mailed you but am not sure if either have got through! Please send me a private message (via PM on this site) to establish contact.

many thanks,

John

It will be useless, may endanger the environment, cause global warming and kill whales. I will take it off your hands for a small fee and ensure it is properly disposed of in accordance with my own local H&S regs.

John