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Member postings for John C

Here is a list of all the postings John C has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: What type of oil to use on a Milling machine
13/01/2010 17:41:20
I got this from an idea by Bob on a woodworker's forum to keep cast iron tables rust free:
I attached two 15 ohm resistors (RS Components, stock no 160455,  £1.95 each pluspostage) to a strip of 3mm aluminium bolted to the rear of the lathe using the
existing machining holes. The resistors are wired in parallel and powered by a
12 v power supply used for low voltage lighting. Each reisistor is just hot to the touch, and the lathe is just a shade warmer than ambient temperature, thus preventing condensation. The power supply is only just warm. I was concerned about overheating and fire risk, but this all seems very stable, and the current drawn is well inside the spec of the power supply. Thanks for the idea Bob! Now to try to heat the rest of the garage.....
The Mk II version has the resistors clamped directly to the lathe by aluminium fingers - the resistors are cooler, so I'm assuming more heat is getting to the lathe. The resisitors are at 10deg C and the lathe bed is at 5 deg C while the rest of the workshop is 2 deg C - so I'm not in it!
and photos of my set up in 'warm bed' in the photo section.  Please note that both pictures show lathes that are 'resting' - I have insulated the terminals to the resistors but will take further precations to prevent swarf creating a short circuit prior to use.
John

Edited for formatting

Edited By John Corden on 13/01/2010 17:42:56

Edited By John Corden on 13/01/2010 17:43:42

Thread: Suds vs neat cutting oil
03/01/2010 12:56:53
I use a garden pond fountain pump with a soluble oil/water mix at about 1:6 and it works fine - and best of all it was free, having been liberated from a no longer required water feature.  It sits on a raising block in a 25 ltr plastic oil container with coiled corrugated washing machine drain hose as the return.  The corrugated hose catches most of the returned swarf, and any that returns to the tank sinks to the bottom, below the intake.  The is a filter on the pump intake and one on the drain hole on the lathe tray. So far the pump filter has no visible swarf in at.  I don't know what the flow rate is as I only use a trickle, but that is enough. There is an 'idle' circuit to a header tank on the feed to prevent the pump straining and a flow regulating tap to control the rate.  Mr Heath Robinson would be proud but it does the job and is portable.  However, I don't hink it would pump anything with much higher viscosity than the mix.  I wipe the lathe bed with slideway oil after use and have had no eveidence of bacterial staining.
John

Edited By John Corden on 03/01/2010 12:58:10

Thread: HTS Bolts
01/01/2010 21:50:35
Nigel,
I wish I had cut the bolt with a hacksaw!  I have since discovered that I must have chipped the edge of my indexed parting tool, on the threads as you suggested, so this whole escapade has cost far more than a set of tee nuts and studs!  Hey ho - what price experience.......
John
01/01/2010 10:00:27
Happy New Year one and all.  Thanks for all the replies!  I must now confess - the only reason I was using HTS was because I picked up the first bolts I came to to off the shelf, and only after the failed cutting attempts did I see they were HTS.  So - I shan't be doing that again!!
 Incidentally, putting them in the fire all night had the desired effect, but too much so - they had the properities of sticks of lead!  I shan't be tempering them as the correct option - i.e. do it right in the first place - has now become the quickest and easiest.  Here endeth the lesson.
 
John
31/12/2009 11:54:27
Yes - very good point.  A future project is to make a stock of T nuts and T bars. Perhaps I should do that sooner rather than later!
John
31/12/2009 10:49:23
I used HTS because they happened to be on the shelf!  The bolt heads, once thinned, fitted the T slots although with less bearing surface than a non-hexagonal head would have. 

Edited By John Corden on 31/12/2009 10:49:58

31/12/2009 09:55:15
I needed a couple of holding down bolts and thought I would turn down the heads of HTS bolts to fit the T slolts, and then part off to length.  Turning the heads was no problem (nice and thin, so they go before the cross slide - thanks Meyrick) but the parting off was a different matter.  I assume that the shafts are hardened but the heads are soft, although I thought that an indexed carbide tool should still be able to cut the shafts.
 
I decided to anneal the shafts and had them to red heat for a few minutes each. The '1 hour per inch of diameter' rule definitely applies, as they were still very hard!  One thought I had was the effect on me of the zinc coating burning off, but a quick look on t'interweb indicated that my fears of poisoning were groundless.
 
So they've been in the woodburner stove all night - I shall see what the results are later.
 
Any thoughts or points on machining HTS bolts?
 
Thanks,
John
Thread: General club questions
19/12/2009 11:03:52
Any clubs in the North Yorks area?
John 
Thread: Mystery Steady
19/12/2009 11:01:00
Thanks - I'm glad it wasn't just me that couldn't identify it! 
John
09/12/2009 07:09:23
Still on the subject of mystery items, can anyone idently this travelling staedy? In old money it's 8 ins high and 5.5 ins across, with the dovetail being 3.5 ins across.  There are more photos in 'photos'
Thanks in advance for any answers!
John

 
Thread: Myford Lever Action Collet Chuck
07/12/2009 08:01:28
Hello All,
I acquired a  Myford Lever Action Collet Chuck which wouldn't move! I managed to get it apart to find that the body key had been deformed out of its slot.  I got this out and cleaned up and the chuck now seems to work. But - there was only one ball bearing in the sleeve, and that seems too small for the holes. Also, the sleeve will now slide out of the body if the chuck is held nose up.

So - how many ball bearings should there be, and what size? And how is the
chuck held together - if it is.
The chuck has two keyways in the body - is there a reason for this?
Thanks in advance for any info. Photos posted in case someone else is having
similar trouble!
John
Thread: Mystery Collet Chuck
28/11/2009 09:15:10
Thanks Richard, that would explain it!  I take it you made the collets as well - I can't find any off the shelf ones that would fit, and I only have the 3/4 one pictured.
John
28/11/2009 07:56:22
Can anyone identify this collet chuck and collet? The chuck is threaded for a Myford ML7/S7 splindle. The collet parallel portion is 0.960 ins outside diameter by 0.65 ins long. The overall length of the collet is 1.35 ins and the widest point is 1.28 ins dia. The collar of the chuck is 2.65 ins dia by 0.75 ins thick.
I've looked on as many tool sites as I can find but there is nothing to identify this item. Any help is most gratefully received.
Thanks,
 John

 
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