Member postings for Mark Rand

The olives are supposed to cut into the pipe!

I've ended up just using some Molyslip, my big spanners and giving the nuts a bit of welly. half a dozen compression joints, plus a number of new and re-joined end-feed and Yorkshire fittings are hopefully undergoing a successful leak test at the moment.

I will admit that when I'm using my Picador jig, It's on the surface grinder rather than on the side of the pedestal grinder. This it actually far superior to the pedestal grinder setup. One can advance the feed with the cross feed of the grinder instead of the nasty nut on the jig, this gives a repeatability of a tenth of a thou, which is better than the rest of the jig can achieve.

One can then grind one side of the drill, wind the feed back, rotate the drill, then grind the other side to the same amount all without having to keep flipping the drill over multiple times.

Picador did make a larger jig, for drills over 3/4". Those are as common as rocking horde leavings.

Over the last two weeks I've been replacing the vented hot water cylinder with a larger, unvented, one. yes, I'm a slow worker!

I've been re-using a lot of the old copper pipe that I installed in 1988, along with a length that I've had in the workshop for quite a while. The old pipe is very definitely harder than new. I'm toying with the idea of annealing those ends which are to have compression fittings on them, prior to tightening the nuts and olives on to them,

A couple more points

1. The seeded gel/ceramic wheels are really excellent for drill sharpening and HSS in general
2. Ideally, the drill would be addressed to the lower side of the right hand wheel or the upper side of the left hand wheel. This is so that the abrasive travels normal to the cutting edge, does not produce a burr and does not lead to a weakened edge, which parallel ginding does.
3. It can be well worth replacing the 3/8" square bar with one that is longer. This makes sharpening Morse taper drills possible.
4. The ultimate in the Picador type sharpeners is the one describes by Duplex in the 1951 ME artcicles.
5. That's more than a couple

It's not obscure or a Windows shortcut. It's a browser setting to allow web site creators to see what they will look and perform like on different, mainly mobile, devices.

Extremely useful if you are creating a website.

In Firefox, the incantation is control-shift-M for the "responsive mode".

Of course, in the 'good old days' one would get a postage due stamp affixed to the letter. Which, after steaming it off, one could add to one's postage stamp album.

I'm guessing that one could build an induced draught fan into a small building at the bottom of the miniature stone/brick chimney. 25 or 40 mm fan, rechargable battery, stone 'shed'

Oooh! Shiney!

Alternatively:- **LINK**

I scrounged a large reel of Inconel 82 when they were having a clearout of the Weld Lab at work. It's wonderful stuff for 'stick anything to anything' welding. I've successfully used it for Cast iron and stainless repairs.

You should be able to just pull it out of the top of the spindle after unscrewing from the tool.

Is it set up as a 'self ejecting' drawbar? If so, there may be a collar screwed onto the top of the spindle that would need removing.

Methinks they've ptobably got the sign wrong on H7 and H8. Other than that, the values seem close to the standard. Having said that, I've got no idea what a D4 tolerance is.

The link is irrelevant. It's talking about resin bonded disks, not surface, pedestal or tool grinding vitreous wheels.

I'll leave people to their apprehensions and assume that none of them have ever had to do any form grinding, face grinding or endmill sharpening.

Have a nice day.

After which at least some of the bores are reamed to size, just as the outside surfaces may be machined to size.

One doesn't think twice about dressing the outside of a wheel (or shouldn't, anyway). The bore is no different from the periphery or sides.

They're ceramics, not magic.

Ring testing is something that should be done before mounting any wheel.

There was one at the welding school at Northampton College where I got My arc and TIG NVQs in 2016-2020. Useful bit of kit for cleaning up an edge or face. If the wheel wears out, it is possible to get a new wheel built up on the old one.

Of course it's ok. How do you think the holes get made in the first place?

Opening up a hole or truing it isn't the same thing as cracking the wheel...

Worth keeping an eye out on fleabay if one is in need of them. Don't think I've ever paid more than a fiver. although the cheapest at the moment is £9.

Fun aside, rather than creeping up on a final dimension, it's usually far better to choose a decent depth of cut that gives a good finish and then make sure that the last two cuts will be to that sort of depth. On the penultimate cut, measure before and after, then adjust the final cut to finish dead on size.

Back to fun, Taking off the embedded diamond grit from a lapping plate made from an Aldi 10kg weight with a CBN insert. Horrible stuff to turn with carbide:-

Edited By Mark Rand on 13/05/2022 20:06:51

Tounge in cheek, but true:-

Minimum DOC for a decent finish with carbide inserts on steel is about 100 thou...

Minimum DOC for a decent finish with CBN inserts is about .5 thou.

I have re-sized the bores of two grinding wheels. I bought new wheels for a Wolf pedestal grinder (one of the newer ones, unfortunately, not one of the nice cast iron ones). I had assumed that the hubs were 1 1/4", but it turned out that they were 32mm. I opened the bores with a 32mm Rotabroach cutter that I had. I held the cutter in the vice with a V block and rotated the wheels onto it by hand.

To do a better job, I would mount a dressing diamond sideways in a boring bar and use it on the mill.

I recently fitted an Indian seeded-gel wheel to the surface grinder to use for drill sharpening. The wobble was truly appalling. That got dressed on both sides and the rim, then the hub was rebalanced. I was a bit annoyed about the poor manufacture, since it is as easy to get it right as it is to screw it up, but at least the wheel now gives very good results sharpening HSS drills.

If you open out the bore of a wheel to correct wobble, you would need to make a bush or new hub to centre the wheel afterwards. If the hole fits the hub now, it's better to dress the wobble out, though you might want to contrive a tool rest that can be clamped to the opened side of the wheel guard to guide the dresser.

I've got my imperial Morse taper drills in a rack attached to the wall. Unfortunately, the rack's in the wrong place at the moment, but it'll get moved eventually.

All the other drills are in my home made chest of draws/bench. They're in a mess and need tidying up...