Member postings for HughE

Welcome Jim, From your photo I would guess that to much oil is getting through the bearings. Are they original if so maybe worn. Could there have been some felt washers on the original that limit the amount of oil reaching the bearings. The lathes website may be of some help.

Hugh

I agree with Muzzer. If the correct spec'ed device is used then there should be no interference to other electronic equipment. Note that there are two version one for commercial and one for residential use. The commercial can give problems in a residential environment as the EMI protection is not as good. EMI is both conducted and radiated so if you have a problem the you to check which is causing the problem. Reading the tech advice from GE suggests you should keep electronic equipment as far away as possible, which may not be possible in a home workshop.

Also the earthing is important. If you have as high impedance earth then the light fitting could be acting as an aerial, if metal.

Hugh

Edited By HughE on 12/10/2018 21:26:35

Edited By HughE on 12/10/2018 21:27:04

Hi Adam,

Glad to see you have sorted it. I would think that during startup they have a small amount of leakage when added causes your RCD to trip. You triggered my curiosity i will do some research on these lights as I am about add lighting to my garage. In the workshop I have used LEDs as they came free no flicker that I have noticed.

Hugh

I think Maplins started out as mail order and had only one shop.

Removing ICs from old pcbs was a pia . Just dumped a box of 74 series logic all marked with A, B, C, D and E. All stored in polystyrene sheet, never hear SSD in those days. Mind you they were reasonably tolerant of static.

Adam,

Back to your OP question and the tripping of the RCD. This could only happen if there was a imbalance of> 30mA between the L and N. I do not know what the driver circuits in these are like but I suspect there is a some form of filter circuit that could be the cause. Did you really mean you have connected them in series?

Hugh

Admired it out side the High Corner Inn in the New Forest last week. It was sporting a patio sun brolly as a rain guard

Larry,

Using old/used engine is risky. Engine oils these days and petrol contain a load of highly toxic chemicals that are combined in the used oil. Fumes given off when quenching hot items are seriously bad. Maybe some on this forum will be able to say what these additives are. Having been through throat cancer and out the other side I would not wish that on anyone. Probably caused by doing silly things like that in my youth as I don't smoke and drink in moderation which are the main causes of this cancer.

Is the risk to your health worth risking for few bob!

Hi Hakon,

You don't need 3 phase, your VFD should convert from single to 3 phase. But you will need a 3 phase motor. Lots of threads on the subject on this forum.

You can use hydraulic jack oil 32.

Good idea to dismantle the headstock assembly if its been standing for a while. Check the oil ways are not blocked. The front bearing oil window always leaked on mine. I had add an O rig to fix it.

Hugh

This was the thread on the forum about belts "Myford Super 7 Mk1 Motor drive belt size plz"

Welcome Hakon,

I have the same lathe serial number SK8824 bought by my farther in the late 50s in East Africa. Still giving me loads of pleasure.

There was a thread on this forum regarding belts last year which will you some idea a various experiences people have had with Fenner links belts. I use the link belt for the headstock drive so I don't have to disassembly the mandrel. It is quiet. The motor belt fitted to mine is Z872 L/D10/850 Z33 1/2.

A couple of books that are well worth getting are:

The amateur's Lathe by L H Sparey

Myford Series 7 by Ian Bradley

Gearing of Lathes for screw cutting by Brian Wood. Ideal if you want cut Metric threads and don't spend loads of money on a conversion kit.

Lubrication: slideways use 68 and for bearings use 32. The lubrication nipples are for oil only don't use grease. The Myford oiler leaks but there is a better one on the market now. I am sure someone will be able to let you know the make.

One worthwhile modification is the use of a 3 phase motor and VFD. Just completed mine with some very simple mods to the motor tray (motor mounting slots needed extending a small amount) and of course you will need a motor pulley if you chose a metric motor.

PM me as I have some info in PDF format that maybe useful to you.

Hugh

It's a bit spooky that this topic came when I was clearing out the loft (orders from er indoors). I found WWs from 69 to 81 and reread all the Hi Fi articles and pro and cons of the Semi vs Valves and does current dumping really make a difference! Lots of good articles from Linsey-Hood et al.

Found a car radio I made from an RTV kit and the Dolby Noise Reducer (unfinished). I will see if the radio is still working.

Next task is to get a KEF B139 to repair my Cambridge audio R40s.

I have just refoamed my AR7 speakers and very pleased with the results. I got them from speaker-repairs.co.uk

Hugh

I was given a set of BA taps and dies from the Tap & Die company as an Xmas present 30 years ago still as good as new despite regular use. Also ME set just as good. Made in UK

Hugh

Thanks for the correction about the OS for Macs. Sorry if I caused anybody confusion.

Hugh

Murray I think fusion360 also runs on Apples Ios. Looking at utube videos last night some commands require extra key presses and it gave both windows and Ios examples.

Hugh

I live in difficult to find place down a short untarmaced road. UPS, Parcelfoce, DPD and Amazon all deliver without any problems. MyHermes is a joke 1 out 5 deliveries achieved, it appears the local operative does not want to get their car dirty so makes up stories why they can't deliver. However I have used them to sent items but have checked with recipient if they are happy to use them, less than 50% are. Yodel are not much better. I found a parcel out side my next door's hedge in the rain, totally wrong address which was 3 miles away in next village, not the first time they have dumped and run.

From my 1961 cat it looks like a No 1 with various mods. Left hand support is a bar not as shown in your photo.

Certainly the reversing gear looks like the one shown on the No 5

No 1 has a 2" bore and Stroke and is 13" high.

No 5 has a 2 1/4" bore and a 2" stroke and is 15" high.

Hugh

Edited By HughE on 27/11/2017 14:28:09

Edited By HughE on 27/11/2017 14:33:43

Hi Piero,

You have the same model S7 as me. It looks like the parts are from the metric conversion banjo assembly.

I have a Operation, Installation, maintenance and pictorial parts list manual. If you are interested I could send you a scanned copy. PM me if interested.

Hugh

Les's idea is the safest as there will be no power applied. Common fault is a poor solder joint. It can be caused by either a poor connection getting hot causing the solder to melt the other is that the insulation on the choke wires was not removed sufficiently causing a weak joint. Due to the way the toroid is mounted any vibration would cause the joint to fracture, add a dab of glue from a glue gun to support it.

Edited By HughE on 15/11/2017 17:24:11

Hi Chris,

Had a similar fault (smell and noise) on a precision drill press. The brushes were OK. It turned out to be a build up of carbon around the commutator. It took a lot of cleaning to clear the fault. I suspect the brushes had been replaced just before I acquired it. Sorry can't help you with gaining access to the stator.

Good luck Hugh

My Dad and I have used them for about 40 years since they were based in Dartmouth (now in Torquay). Nothing but praise for their service and help when looking for oddball taps and dies.