Member postings for David Colwill

That is good because I know that they keep EN16T in stock, which should make it a lot cheaper. I am waiting for the spindle to come back from the "precision engineers" ( the ones who looked at it and tut tutted before saying no thank you ).

I should point out how this has failed, which is a guess as the culprit has vanished. It looks as if someone has been drilling something on the slowest speed with a big drill that has snagged and spun the work round until it has hit something and suddenly come to a dead stop. This has twisted the splined section into a bit of a mess.

My main worries are internal stresses causing bending and a repeat of the previous failure but under less load.

I'm hoping to have the spindle on Monday so I will upload a photo then.

Thanks again.

David.

Thanks Dean / Clive . It's useful to know that 4140 is EN19 as it gets mentioned a lot on various forums / youtube.

It seems that the steel stockholder doesn't keep it in but they will get a bar for us. I will keep you informed of price.

David.

I would say it's a waste of money. There are plenty of second hand older lathes that even if badly worn will still outperform that for about the same money. If you want small and cheap look at Taig / Peatol.

David

Hi thanks Clive. I have a Dean Smith and Grace 13 x 30 so huskiness shouldn't be a problem. The owners of the machine buy quite a high volume of steel from a local stockist so they shouldn't have too much problem getting what I ask for. The diameter of the spindle is about 50mm at its largest point but that is only the last 20mm or so after that it reduces to about 40mm for another 200mm and then down to a splined shaft about 20mm that is abour 200mm long. This is from memory as I haven't collected it yet.

I will upload a photo when I've got it.

Regards.

David.

A company that I do some work for have a Fobco 10/8ths that has a damaged spindle. I have agreed to have a go at making a new one, so the question is what grade of steel to use. Ideally I would like to use something that would not require hardening / heat treating after I have finished machining. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Regards.

David.

Edited By David Colwill on 16/06/2016 19:33:49

Judicious prodding with a cocktail stick whilst it is on may produce crackling when you touch the component with the bad joint.

David.

This is starting to get like Fermats last theorem but without the prize. Could the OP enlighten us before we all die.

David.

I agree with the above. I hardly ever use a travelling steady. The fixed on the other hand is used now and then. On lathes with small spindle holes they can be used for working on long bars that wont fit through the mandrel, which saves waste.

Regards.

David

I sell oils on ebay but not Hysol XF at the moment. If anyone is interested I will get a 20 litre and break it down as I'm sure it will sell. Looking at Broughtons price it would work out at about £11.50 per litre including post. That price would only be for people responding to this post. I am away on holiday soon but will sort it out when I get back.

David.

Castrol Alusol A is a semi synthetic soluble oil. It used to be called Hysol excel. It doesn't smell and seems to be good for most applications. PM me and I will send you a sample.

Regards.

David.

I was with a friend once and had to call round to one of his friends that I had never met. They were standing round their television which kept flickering on and off. I asked for a tape measure and proceeded to find a spot on the case. I then gave it a sharp knock at the point I had measured and the television stopped flickering and worked perfectly (and continued to do so for some years)

To say they were amazed was an understatement. They still talk about it now. I knew that there was a possibility that a sharp blow would temporarily sort it out and the tape measure was just showmanship but they didn't!

David

Sometime ago I acquired a horizontal kit for my bridgeport clone. I have never used it for horizontal milling, although the right angle head came in jolly useful once. Does anyone else have one of these? Are they any good?

David.

Doh. Obviously I meant to put the link in but forgot.

Thanks Rod.

I came across these videos the other day. They were filmed in 1972, so look quite dated. Although some of the information in them is presented in a simplistic way sometimes, it is none the less presented. If you are a beginner to metalworking there is plenty to learn.

The more experienced among us may enjoy looking back to a time when we were still building things, some I'm sure will probably have been made to sit and watch these very films.

Enjoy.

David.

I've no idea but it does look very nice!

David.

I have just checked and found that I use the MGT parting system. I have found it to be great. I part 25mm at 1289 RPM on a Smart and Brown 1024. I also have some of the inserts with a 3mm diameter tip. The insert life is fantastic.

Hope this helps.

David.

I have an old Grayson kicking around somewhere that I seriously thought about cutting short. Even the lathes.co.uk site says it is a bad design. The plan was to cut off the foot at the tailstock end and just have it as a cantilever bed.

David.

Sorry I saw this on Ebay and nearly fell off my chair.

**LINK**

Still you have to admire the optimism of the seller.

David.

Never, ever, leave a chuck key in a chuck.

David.

Smart and Brown 1024s had one. At least mine did have one. I've looked high and low for it. I'm beginning to suspect it found its way into the coolant tank . The good news is that I plan to change over to Castrol Alusol A in the near future so fingers crossed it will turn up. Otherwise I will be looking for a photo of one.

David.