Here is a list of all the postings Alvin Schlitter has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Can I shim a machinist vice?? |
09/05/2010 11:14:19 |
Hello Terryd; I am retired and live in Thailand, you are right that is great protection! Here everythingis misrepresented and one never gets what they are promised. Regarding the top of the vice, you are right one hardly ever uses to top for anything. It was what I used to check how level the vice was. I intend on using soft jaws for the vice so the top issue is really a none issue. Removing the swivel base is a good option or trying to mill the inside base if that can be done? I suppose one could open up the jaws all the ways then check the two ridges that supports the parallels. I do have actually a couple of wide parallels that are right on so this might work as well. I will start with the parallels and then go from there, and if needed remove the swivel base. Thank you all for the positive feed back and great suggestions. Regards Al |
09/05/2010 00:30:45 |
I own a ZAY 7045FG milling machine and have a generic (Chinese) 4" machinist vice installed on the mill. I checked the vice to see if the fixed jaw was parallel across the vice and found that the right side of the jaw was .18mm higher than the top of the left hand side jaw. I removed the vice and checked the ground bed over a 8" distance where the vice sits and found a difference of only .005mm. This then indicated to me that the vice is not ground correctly. Is it advisable to shim up the vice to get it to somewhat level? I do not have a accurate parallel that I trust to check the inside base of the vice so I am going by the top of the fixed jaws only. I hope that this makes sense to you the readers. Thanks in advance for replies! |
Thread: Speed and feed rate for 1 1/4" Carbide Index tool? |
21/01/2010 23:00:40 |
This particular cutter has 2- Inserts in the head, the material that I most often cut is low carbon steel! |
21/01/2010 00:06:41 |
Hello All; I just received a new 1 1/4" indexable insert cutter for my ZAY7045FG/1 Milling machine. Are there others that have a similar tool? What I would like is the speed at which one should run the tool at as well as the advancement rate of the material against the cutter. According to Harold Hall in his book, Milling: A Complete Course #35; he recommends a speed for 1/2" HSS cutters at 500 RPM. Based on this a 1 1/4" (31mm) diameter tool one should use a speed of around 200 RPM. However this is a carbide tool and one can double the speed or more. I tried a speed around 400 RPM and the machine seemed to hammer a bit, I raised the speed to around 600 RPM and it sounded much better. I checked the tool and material after dry milling a fairly deep and wide cut and both where fairly cool. Please provide you thoughts! |
Thread: Assistance with ZAY7045FG/1 Milling Machine |
17/01/2010 09:56:32 |
Hello Martin; Tried that and it did not work! I suppose one could modify the electronics to add a reversing switch! Also Keith, what I was trying to say was that once the cutter and collet are properly inserted into the quill one needs to tighten the draw bar and then snug it up so that the mill end does not creep out when milling. There is no locking arm for the spindle only a locking arm for the rack sleeve (quill). I have now found the solution for this problem and that is to put the transmission into the lowest speed setting and that offers enough resistance to tighten up the draw bolt. ![]() |
Thread: What type of oil to use on a Milling machine |
16/01/2010 12:35:04 |
Thank you everyone for the replies, living here in Thailand we do not get the large temperature changes that others might get, however we do get high humidity in the monsoon season. Thanks again to all! |
Thread: Assistance with ZAY7045FG/1 Milling Machine |
16/01/2010 12:27:03 |
Hello All; I have my new ZAY7045FG/1 Milling machine now in my shop and set up. The tramming of the Z axis was a challenge due to the weight of this brute but now have it set right on. A couple of questions to others with a similar machine, how do you lock a R8 collet into the spindle and not have it turn. I thought that the machine would have a brake type of lock similar to the Bridgeport's but it does not. The next question is how to make the machine work in a counter clockwise direction. Yes, for drilling and tapping one can select this feature and set up the depth and it will drill and or tap to a depth then reverse itself out of the hole. But I cannot find how to get it to milling in a counter clockwise direction. Why you might ask, well left hand mills. There is supposed to be a way to set up the clutch which is used for selecting the various speeds when doing powered drilling or tapping. The manual does not cover procedure so I am hoping someone might be able to assist. Thank you in advance. |
Thread: What type of oil to use on a Milling machine |
13/01/2010 11:43:07 |
I am wondering what others use on a new milling machine to keep rust forming on the bed of the machine. For me the key is the application of the oil. Regular oil is very thick, can one dilute it with mineral oil then apply it? How about spraying the machine with WD40. I realize that there are many that regard WD40 as a hazardous chemical. Please give me an idea of what do. Thanks in advance! |
Thread: Making a Z-Axis DRO on the cheap |
06/01/2010 12:14:40 |
Hello Les; Very nice set up of the DRO's on your machine. The caliper on the Z axes however looks longer than a 150mm length? I intend in the future on going the full route like you have done with the 3-axes plus the display unit. However still need other items for my new ZAY7045FG-1 Milling machine. Once this is complete, I will then set aside five hundred dollars or so for the upgrade. However for now, a cheap and easy solution should work! Thank you for the posting! |
05/01/2010 23:56:03 |
Hello All; Has anyone modified a standard digital 150mm (6” ![]() Looking at this process one could cut off the jaws and removing the sliding tail (depth indicator) of the caliper, then remove the slide wheel and lock pin. Then epoxy three pieces of aluminum or steel to the back of caliper and digital display, then screw the assembly to the face of the mill to provide a digital display for the Z- axis. Yes, one can buy a unit for mounting with a vertical display but this sounds like a cheap solution. Just throwing this out for thoughts! |
Thread: Cover for a milling machine table |
03/01/2010 04:53:09 |
Hello MGJ; You mentioned using a 2mm needle as a flood jet! (I use a 2mm vetinerary needle. I get a nice high pressure jet, so its blowing swarf away, and it keeps the cutting point flooded and cool). Can you get enough pressure with a gravity system to blow the swarf away or does one need a pump? One final thing please if you use a flood system, even a small one, how do you keep the table and pan from rusting? Do you spray WD40 or something like that after every use? Best Regards |
01/01/2010 12:23:48 |
Hello All; Thank you for the discussion and thoughts. I originally included in my order a flood system but removed it due to the mess that these things can cause. Shielding would help but with them they would lead to restrictions, it seems that for every upgrade there is a price that must be paid! One last issue not addressed with a flood system it the vaporization of the coolant as well as the atomization of the coolant due to the motion of the cutter. This can of course lead to some health considerations. Anyways these are just my thoughts. |
30/12/2009 12:05:52 |
Hello All; I was viewing the MIT training videos and I noticed that the instructor had some type of cover covering the Bridgeport milling machine table. It appeared to run up to and maybe even under the vice that was attached to the machine. My question has two parts: 1. What types of material can one use safely on a milling machine table with a mounted vice. 2. If one is working on the table directly and not using a vice what type of cover could one use and how would one attach it? The reason for the cover in my mind is to minimize coolant from an applicator bottle getting into the Tee slots and bottom well as well as aiding in keeping the machine clean. |
Thread: End Mills for X2 |
19/11/2009 00:01:33 |
Hello All; My question to users of the Seig X2 machine is; what is the best choice for end mills, using HSS, Cobalt or Carbide cutting tools. What I am after is feedback from users, I use mostly HSS on my C2 Mini Lathe except for hard materiasl i.e. stainless, drill rod (silver steel) etc. Thanks Al |
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