Member postings for Colin Heseltine

Both cats are regularly wormed and de-flea'd.

We have one old (11yrs) female cat who is a prolific hunter. Our younger male does not hunt at all. The female will catch squirrels, rabbits (all sizes) and every version/size of mouse/vole/bird (including pigeons) whatever. The rabbits are caught at least 100 metres (but more like 150-200) from the house and are dragged through a wire mesh fence, 80 yards up a steep garden and if not eaten on the patio are somehow dragged through the cat flap into the garage. In some cases they are dead before coming through the cat flap, in others very much alive. If the kitchen door is open she will bring dead ones in and eat on the bathroom floor. If still alive she will release in the hall and then case around the house after it. The weird thing is she eats the head complete with skull, but occasionally leaves one ear, then she will dig into the body cavity for the heart and liver. To look at her you would think butter would not melt in her mouth. When she has dragged a rabbit home she is absolutely worn out.

Colin

Drove to Donington Park yesterday afternoon around 14:45 for early evening trackday. It was extremely warm. But once on track it was scorching. Four 20 minute sessions at 80-120mph and I was leaking like a sieve. Oil up to 120 degrees and tyres way to hot to touch. Great fun and sunk few bottles of beer once back home.

Colin

We must support these events if at all possible. In my case its is roughly 90 mile round trip so just over a couple of gallons. A far cry from a trip I am doing a bit later in the year which is likely to be between 80 and 90 gallons. The cost does not bear thinking about.

Colin

John,

Do I need to join the AHS in order to be able to view this document.

Thanks,

Colin

Thanks guys. I have contacted a couple of these and await any info they can give me.

Colin

With the phenomenal range of interests within these forums, I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction to find some information out.

I have a marine chronometer and a marine barometer both supposedly manufactured by Mrs Janet Taylor, 104 Minories, London, somewhere around 1845-1865.

Some of you may have read about her life in the book 'Mistress of Science' (The story of the remarkable Janet Taylor, Pioneer of Sea Navigation).

I am trying to find any records relating to the manufacture of said instruments. I know in many cases manufacture was by others and then had the sellers name affixed. I am sure I have seen a comment somewhere that Dents made them on her behalf.

Does anyone have any information or can provide and guidance on where to try and find some answers.

Many Thanks,

Colin

I have one of the Parweld Tru-colour auto darkening helmets and find it very good for Tig but not so good with MIG. For MIG I revert back to my Speedglass 9002. I also use a cheat lens (2.5mag) with the Parweld and 3 times magnification lenses in my close work spectacles. I can actually see what I'm doing. Just done a C&G Level 1 TIG course (FOC) and now doing a C&G Level 1 MIG course (again FOC). Only have one test weld (lap fillet weld) left to do, but cannot see what I am doing with either helmet. I have tried marking the edge with chalk, next time I am going to linish the top face so I can hopefully see a shiny edge and a dark edge.

I think this is a penalty for getting old. Rubbish eye sight for jobs like this.

Colin

I was looking for a tungsten electrode grinder and came across what I though was a very neat one on Thingiverse.com. This one that can be printed out with a 3D printer. If you search for Tungsten Grinder/Sharpener with Dust Collection (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4937583). This device is used with a Dremel or similar with a threaded nose. In my case I use a Milwaukee M12 Die Grinder, but it also fits my Dremel. Pictures below show the one I printed out. There is a video attached to the Thingiverse page showing the device being made and in use).

It works very well and can be connected to a vacuum. The only thing needed to purchase are the 25mm diamond wheels and some brass grub screws for the tungsten guides. As designed the device can grind 60, 45,30 and 15 degree angles and can also be used to trim the miss-shaped ended of electrodes.  No more grooves in your grinding wheels.

Colin

Edited By Colin Heseltine on 04/06/2022 16:11:20

I'm not sure it helps the colour blind. I'm Red/Green colour blind as are something like 20% of the male population. Many are the times I've ben told off by other half for getting Green not Red or vice versa. We now stick to just one version - Red. Which 9 times out of 10 I now get correct.

Colin

Mark,

I like that idea for your taper shank drills. I just need to sharpen lots of my taper shank drills. Waiting for a friend of mine to make the taper shank adaptors to use with his Brierley drill grinder. Will then have between 60 and 80 drills to sharpen.

Colin

PS if anyone has the dimensions for the taper shank adaptors it would be appreciated.

The toolbit has been ground to match the feedscrew. I was not intending to get a tap to finish.

I have just read a 2019 thread on this site, discussing someones issues with a Boxford feedscrew. I see that it was commented that many manufacturers used imperial sized leadscrews with ACME threadform and metric pitches.

Does not make it easy.

Colin

Mark,

That's a fair point. The play seems pretty consistent along the full length of the leadscrew. The leadscrew thread looks pretty good along its length and the form looks quite defined, as opposed to being worn away.

Colin

A quick question.

I am in need of a new topslide nut and this is going to be made by a friend on his Hardinge lathe as we need the existing leadscrew to test the nut. I have checked with Colchester Spares and the leadscrew is 5/8" diameter (0.625" ) and has a 2.5 pitch metric thread. I am trying to ascertain whether this is a 29 degree Imperial threadform or a 30 degree Metric threadform. None of the threadgauge sets we have possess a 2.5 pitch threadform they all go from 2 pitch to 3 pitch. It is very hard to see a 1 degree difference. Can anyone confirm, one way or another.

Thanks,

Colin

Edited By Colin Heseltine on 07/05/2022 21:10:08

Edited By Colin Heseltine on 07/05/2022 21:10:29

Thanks for the responses. I had hoped to put my 6" Griptru chuck onto the D1-6 backplate. When I tried to remove what I thought was the L0 backplate, I very quickly found that it was an integral part of the chuck. Oh well, that is another chuck I need to try and sell along with my Burnerd Multisize collet chuck.

Thanks,

Colin

I have recently swapped out my Colchester Student lathe with L0 chuck fixing and replaced it with a Colchester Triumph 2000 which has D1-6 chuck mount on the spindle. I have the standard 12" 4 jaw, and 8" 3 jaw chucks as well as a Burnerd Multisize chuck.

I had a 6" Burnerd GripTru chuck on the Student which has a backplate with the L0 fixing. I wish to be able to use this on the new lathe and so need to replace the L0 backplate with a D1-6 camlock backplate. I have been looking on Ebay and there are quite a few D1-6 camlock backplates available for chucks around the 6" to 8" diameter range but they all appear to only have 3 camlock pins rather that the full 6. Can a 3 pin fixed chuck work as safely as a 6 pin mounted one? The only 6 pin one I can see on the market at a reasonable price is that marketed by RDG, although that ideally needs turning down from the supplied 200mm to be closer to the required 6" diameter.

Any thoughts,

Thanks,

Colin

The Cowells ME90 lathe which can be seen on RH edge on second picture could be anything from £650 to £1200 depending on accessories with it.

Colin

Just checked and EPDM rubber is not compatible with oil so will need to look for some good old brown paper to make gasket or look for some thin cork gasket material.

Colin

I have the plate off now. They definitely do nothing now. They are just in the tapped holes with no sealant or anything. There is a very thin paper gasket but this had been replaced and then coated in silicon goo.

I have some sheets of 1/16" rubber sheet as used for flat roof's. I think I will make new gasket out of this and ensure that the 4 extra holes have sealing washers and a bit of silicon to seal them completely.

Colin

I have just become owner of a Colchester Triumph 2000 lathe. The oil level in the apron was low so topped it up to the correct level. After 2 days it was down to a low level. There should be a gasket between the apron and the bottom plate. At first glance I cannot see one, only possible remnants of what was possibly a silicon gasket. I have managed to take a photo and from the look of it it does not have the original apron base. There is a perimeter of bolts and then two odd pairs of bolts/screws. From what I can see of the drawings in the manual there is not as far as I can ascertain anything to be fixed to the bottom plate. Has any one got the same model of lathe and can take a look at the apron base and see if these extra screws are present. I am wondering if that was a piece of plate that had a couple of unwanted holes and the screws were used to seal them up.

It might be worth making a new plate from 3/16" or 1/4" aluminium plate and make a proper gasket.

It would be nice to know if these extra holes perform a function prior to removing the base plate.

See picture below:

Thanks,

Colin