Member postings for john fletcher 1

As you say the motor hums, so its not the machine wiring, its the motor. As others have said try the string idea but be very very careful. By using the string idea you are eliminating the motor start winding, the capacitor and centrifugal switch and if the motor runs then one of those three are faulty. I haven't seen one your type lathes, but the motor is available then a capacitor change might be the easiest to do. For test purposes ONLY and with slack vee belt, two old 5 foot fluorescent light capacitor connected in parallel will be OK in place of the original one, after all that its a strip down. If you send me a PM with an email address I 'll send you more details. John

You say the motor starts and runs, so can discount the centrifugal switch and capacitors. Dave has listed other things and I would go with him. Never seen a drill with a capacitor as fitted by the manufactures, they NORMALLY start on No load so don't need a cap. John

In the past 3 or 4 years some one on this forum published am excellent article, with good clear pictures on how he located the Star point and brought out 3 extra wires into his motor terminal box. I have done the conversion for my friends, all on older motors, and as yet to hear of a failure, they bought their inverters via ebay and again not heard of a failure, could be they are just lucky ! I have an insulation tester up 1000volts which I used to give the motors a test before use. Have a go, you have not much to lose, you need to look out for a lump in the windings area which needs to be carefully opened up, and three wires attached. I used three different coloured wires for identification purposes, fibre glass insulation tube and heat shrink and a small amount of resin is readily available via ebay. Best of luck and let us know how you get on. John

I'm making a basic spark erosion machine, following an article in EIM several years ago and which was demonstrated at Harrogate Model Engineering Exhibition. Can a reader tell me the distance between the end discs of the coil former upon which the 1500 turns of wire are wound. Any other info on improvement in light of experience will be much appreciated. John

There was an article in MEW several years ago about the speed read out display on a lathe, using a ABS brake counter unit, which was easily attached to my Super 7. Basically it used a VW unit, a simple 12 volt power supply and a display unit. It counts the teeth on the 60 tooth Bull wheel. A friend has a magnet attached to the side of the Bull wheel on his lathe and a counter unit all from Ebay for less than a tenner. Mine cost a bit more at the time. John

I have done a similar stick weld. On my motor the windings were clear of the outer shell, it go warm, I didn't linger, did a short run, left it for while to cool then a little bit more. I was fixing the mount for small 3 phase motor on my Fobco drill and I was also going to use VFD. John

The hydraulic fluid as used on earth moving equipment, farm equipment and many other similar similar things has the same specifications.as quoted by former Myford. Locally we can take a clean 1 litre milk carton to the ships chandlers and he fills it out of the 40 gallon barrel for £2.50, might be a bit more just now. John

Out of interest, Scarborough Mates (Shed) has several brand new "Beeston Myford" cross and top slide screws for sale. Should any one be interested please feel free to contact me via a PM. and I'll contact the SHED next week. John

OK Noel about the transformer, I have quiet a few transformer so now no problem there. I've now have got a copy of what was published in EIM years ago when Maplin was still around. I thought it might be a useful thing to have around in the workshop. John

Several years ago two members of Keighley Model Engineering club made a Spark Erosion Machine detail were posted in EIM. They used a transformer supplied by RS components 240- 48 volts, Does any one one know the technical details of the transformer as I already have a collection of transformer, so no need to buy another. John

I've just been reading Neil's book on the Chinese lathe, and Jason's book on the mill both very good books for the beginners regardless of the make of the lathe or mill. The pictures are excellent, and are informative.. John

As several readers have already said ensure the motor windings are not damp, put it in the airing cupboard for a day or two, then get your friendly electrician around with his 500 volt DC insulation tester, often known as a Megger, to carryout an insulation test. The electrician can also carry out rudimentary test on your capacitor, by charging it up and leave it for half an hour, he will know what to do. If all is well, leave things alone regarding dismantling.it easy to dismantle a motor and break a winding lead, but its not so easy to reassemble without scratching the insulation varnish off some of the winding. Two drops of oil is that is needed in those oil caps. I've fixed lots of good but messed up motors by people with good intensions. Regarding perished rubber, carefully disconnect the capacitor noting where the two leads come from (take a picture) then slide some heat shrink, fibre glass or other sleeve over the rubber. That motor is more than 60 years old. if all was well regarding the cap and motor insulation test then give it a run. I don't know where you but I could fix it for you and show you the future. John

Back yet again, I notice an error in the email address,

[email protected] and it is all under lined from beginning to the end, continuous. John

Back again Peter Love 1, I tried to send you a PM but it keeps bouncing back ???. If you want Steve mobile number how about you sending me a PM. John

I have one of Steve Tracey carriage hand wheel and am pleased with it, bought it several years ago at Harrogate show . If you email [email protected]. I have his mobile number, I'll send Peter Love 1 a PM with Steve mobile number. John

North Yorkshire covers a big area, which is your nearest town ? I'm a member of PEEMS based in Pickering, York has a club and if are interested in railways then a visit to Gilling not far from Malton is worth a visit when they are open once again. Perhaps you may like to send me a PM. John

I have an "Alpine" saw to which I fitted with a DOL starter maybe 30/35 years ago and it appears to be a similar machine under a different name. I have just checked my saw and the motor is 4 pole capacitor start 1425 rpm half HP.. So, I think almost any !/2 HP cap start motor can be fitted, maybe a bit of work is required with mounting bolt holes and shaft diameter. I would look out for a second hand motor for £20 or £30 and fit a DOL. Before buying second hand, run the motor and check the direction of rotation, most are easily altered but some not. John

30/40 years ago lots young men (mostly men) left school and join an EITB training course. I'm a member of MENS SHED and to help with the basic metal working training I/we would like copies of the lathe and milling training manuals as issued to the lads. They were very well illustrated, we haven't a lot of money available so could you be generous. I'll pay the carriage. John

Colin, I've sent you a PM regarding getting the phasing sense correct and how to do it should you need to do. I have more details should you be in need of them. John

It would appear that the electric supply is via the two BLUE crimp on terminals, and I see there are two bare copper wire links, which is OK. So, lift up the BLUE crimp supply wires, and swop over the two wires which are below them, the RED and the BLUE. Then replace the two BLUEs supply crimps back in their original positions/locations.as shown in your picture. John