Member postings for john fletcher 1

I've have a saw like yours Nick, mine says it's an Alpine and was supplied by Graham Engineeering long since disappeared, had it for about 25/30 years, really useful tool. There was an article either on ME or MEW on making a larger table, which when you a have suitable blade you can with the aid of an assistant rip down wood. I made an attachment using a piece of 12mm X 90 X 170 (approximately) steel with a series of drilled and tapped hole, the holes have the same thread as my mill clamping kit. I can clamp small pieces of steel and cut very thin pieces. Another useful attachment is a similar piece of steel with two angle cut pieces again with hole as before, welded to the plate, so that I can cut short round bits. I found when cutting round bar it tries to revolve, but not with the jig. I also made a blade repair jig so that when a blade breaks I can silver solder it together again. Non of the above are my original ideas, picked upon the way. .John

I have two Reilang oil guns, both with fixed vertical spouts I have been looking to buy a replacement flexible spout for one of them to fit my Myford lathe, without success. Can any point me in the right direction. John

I hto ave a Reilang R003-253 oil gun which I use on my Super 7 lathe, but it won't oil the top or cross slide nipples, only oil those positions with a movable cap/lid as on the counter shaft. Is there an alternative tip to fit on the end of the pipe, so that I can lubricate the likes of top/cross slide and other similar nipples. John

Back again to correct my error, in last but one sentence above, it should have been Alternative 240 volt coils are available for the motors starter.

Before you get rid of your Pedestal grinder and Fobco pillar drill what about locating the Star point in the motors, wire them in Delta, then with the aid of a few capacitors you could run both as normal or nearly normal. The grinder and drill are usually of intermittent use. Alternative 240 volt coils are available for the motors. Just a thought. John

RS Components used the sell BA and Metric nut spinners and maybe Cromwell tools do as well. John

H&S look away.

Slip the belt off, wrap around the shaft a length of soft cord, note the direction you did the wrapping, give the cord a firm pull and switch on. Note motor direction of rotation, switch off. Do the same with the cord, but in the other alternative direction, switch back on and again note DOR. You have just tested the run winding for continuity. So your fault is in the start circuit and most likely the centrifugal switch..

That terminal box doesn't look like the original one and no signs of a capacitor, so as Dave says, a spilt phase. Before you take it apart to hopefully locate the fault, with a scriber mark both bell ends. Two marks on the drive end and single on the non drive end straight across, these are to help you when reassembling the motor. When withdrawing the rotor be very care full not to scratch the windings and break a wire, as it can be very difficult to locate the other broken end and carry out a repair, also don't let the rotor fall on the workshop floor and bend the shaft. Do not oil the centrifugal switch mechanism, you might need to clean up the contacts. Once you have the motor reassembled, and for your own personal safety you ought to get your friendly electrician, to give it an insulation test, before connecting to the supply once again Let us know how you get on and don't forget the most important wire the EARTH. John

I'll second Dave's comment on Mike's engine, not only does it look good it sound like the real thing when it's running. John

For us domestic customers we have a Kilowatt hour meter, so power factor doesn't come into it. Straight amp X volt is near enough. It's s either you want to use your work shop or you don't simple as that, avoid the worry and stress. John

I would like to thank Carl Wilson for the help he gave me when making a controller. I went a bit a stray but got there in the end. Three of my friend were so impressed when I cut some gears for my Myford lathe, no counting of holes or thin teeth, they convinced me to do the electronic wiring bits for them. So four down and one more to go. John

A few years ago there was an excellent thread on here, complete with several picture on locating the Star point and bringing out the three extra wire, converting a 3Ph motor from 415 volts Start to 240 Delta. Often a simple job and well worth a read. John

The days when rewind shops would even consider single phase stuff have long gone, just so expensive, unless its a very special motor.as fitted to some top quality high speed wood working machine. Sad to say, generally speaking single phase is a throw away job, cheaper to get a new one. from PRC or their agent. John

If all else fails, you can bring out the switch pair and use a push button switch ( NOT a bell Push) and YOU do the switching yourself. Mount the push switch in a substancial plastic box, very close to your existing power switch, insulate the pair with some glass tubing and remember how to use it to start the motor. Not the best idea but needs must, Brook Crompton Parc are not what they used to be when in Huddersfield, apparently owned by a holding company in PRC. John

The lamp limiter as it is know as in the repair trade and as described by Malcolm above, is a very simple and useful electric test gadget, well worth making. For mine I have 4 BROWN batten lamp holders mounted on a length of wood, 13 amp plug and lead one end, 13 amp socket outlet and three terminal the other for the load so that I can insert an ammeter, all covered by a bit of stainless steel mesh over the bulbs to let the heat out and to stop the bulbs from being broken. These Gadgets were well know in the radio, tv rand electrical repair trade in the 50', simple and reliable. John

As not done it yet says above, the magnet might need re magnetising a quick and easy job for the repair shop, apparently now expensive, count think why.as it is a quick flip job providing you have the re magnetising transformer.. I had a Norton ES2 many years ago and did a home brew conversion on it and have done the same on several two strokes. I used the same points, condenser and a 6 volt Morris Minor car coil on the ES2 which I had in the shed. I'm sure 6 volt coils are still available other wise to go to 12 means changing the battery and the light bulbs. I would suggest you check out the condenser first, for a rough test get your friendly electrician with his 500 DC Megger to charge it up, leave it for a few minutes and then see if you get a good cracking sound when you short the lead to the case. I assume the points are clean not pitted and have correct gap. I hope my experience is of help to you. John

Many years ago at college we carried out a 13 amp load test on 13 socket outlets, together with the plug which goes into the outlet. All were British made, those brass plated steel pin ones plugs from the far East weren't available those days. When loaded to 13 amps it was only a short time before both the plug and socket outlet got hot to touch and arcing soon took place. When we took the socket outlet to pieces the so called copper connections were softened and had little or no tension left, the plug was OK but hot. The old 10 and 15 amp round pins ones were much better, but were not deemed to be unsuitable for a ring main circuit, back in1947. All the modern industrial plugs and sockets are round pins. Today many 13 amp plugs are steel pins brass plated, and when the brass is worn away the plug over heats Put a magnet near your new 13amp plug. Yes, in the trade it's well know that fuses age and fail, just like us. John

What make is your motor and can you identify which winding is the start and which is the run. As it says on the switch its a Santon, they are not easy to dismantle and reassemble, if you going to attempt to dismantle the switch do it in a large clear plastic bag, so that those little springs won't fly all over the place and get lost. I see on your picture there are 6 terminals which you need so you maybe lucky. I have an old Myford leaflet and it shows A1 is connected to one end of the start winding, the other end of that winding goes to one of the connection on the internal centrifugal switch, the other connection on the switch is connected to A2. F- is to the mains supply and so is F+. Run winding to a pair of unmarked pair of terminals either way round. Whilst that is a bit vague I hope might be useful. John

I think the answer is NO. You would be very fortunate to locate the common connection, experience is what is needed here, also you say there isn't a name plate so is the motor RPM going to OK . To locate the common connection you will need an ohmmeter, your motor will have a higher resistance for the start winding and much lower for the run, maybe around 6-8 ohms. Leave well alone, at the moment you have a useful motor but might finish up with a scrap one. Parvalux three lead AC motors are altogether different both windings have the same resistance. John.

Why not use the bus when visiting the hospital, I'd rather spend the money on helping the sick than on car parking. Maybe the price rise of petrol will sort things out.

I'm a helper at our local MENS SHED (MATES) we have been given an incomplete CZ metal bender, I have a copy of an article which was in Model Engineer about 20 or so years ago. Does any one know where CZ are now (phone number or Email address) or have a CZ DVD which apparently was given away to buyer of one of their benders, and which we can have. John