Member postings for john fletcher 1

Back again, many thanks to all who responded to my request regarding the 12 volt motor. controller. Unfortunately my friend had already bought the bits including the transformer. I think can persuade him to put his bits to one side and buy a package some thing like Dave and Stuart suggest. I made my own way back in Sept. 1990 following an article in ME, all the electronic components came from a discarded washing machine control board from the tip, when it really was recycling. Thank you Mike for pointing out Mikes workshop Youtube very good and ingenious.

I'm helping a friend to power his mill table and I'll be doing the wiring. he has a small window up/down motor, and bought a 12v-40v 10a pwm dc motor speed controller dimmer voltage from ebay. He would like a fast return push button as fitted to Bridgeport mills. Can any one inform me where I should fit/ solder wires for the fast return push button, or is it actually possible on these tiny controller boards where all the components are cramped up together. John

Before the virus shut down I was a helper at the stroke club, one of the members said he had been looking into buying mobility scooter and told me the local price was close on £3000, which I thought was a lot of money.. At the next meeting the same man told me he had talking to his daughter in Leeds on the phone, and she could buy the same model for close on £2000. Both thought there was some wrong, but did check with the brochures pictures. Later, he went to the original dealer and told him he would not be buying from him as he could buy a scooter from Leeds for £2000, the local deal said I'll match it. I couldn't believe what I was hearing. If any one knows of a disable person with a fault on their scooter they should contact REMAP first, as they can often help out. REMAP groups are dotted all over UK and social services will know if your area has a group. John

Not engineering, but I thought other readers might like to know of our experience. Recently our Upvc front door locking mechanism system failed. I removed the lock etc with the help of my wife and dismantled the lock case. In it I found a very small, poorly made brass cam which was worn away. I went to the large factory where it was originally made hoping to buy a replacement. On enquiring about a replacement lock, we were told we change our lock supplier from time to time and the one you require is no longer available. During the conversation it was implied they changed the the locks so that customers have to buy another complete door £375.(I could be wrong) I have at hand several Iron mongers type catalogues and found a locking system £75. A friend suggested ebay, had a look there and bought the exact lock £16 delivered. We fitted the new lock within a hour.

David H I've sent you a PM. John

I had a ML7 and made a clutch for it, by following an article in MEW, it worked fine, no trouble at all, I think I still have the article and details. In the early days of combined harvesters some had their main power application by a slipping belt. In about 1960 a belt for combined harvesters £37 I remember the grimace on the farmers face when told it was £37 and no grant either. Some building site dumper had the same idea ,.a simple single cylinder diesel engine, a belt, back axle and two pulleys. John

Since you have quoted meter readings I'm assuming your motor hasn't got a capacitor attached.

You need four terminals to enable the motor to reverse. As you say you have ohm meter reading Black and Red wires of 3.9 Ohms this will be your run winding. the Yellow and Blue 14.6 Ohms will be the start winding. you will have discard the present arrangement and create an extra terminal. A 2BA nut and bolt will be Ok for the extra terminal. Dewhurst, connect Black to 5 and Red to 7 then Yellow to 2 and Blue to 6.As others have said you need a proper motor starter with RED and GREEN push buttons which will give you No Volt protection. The contacts on the Dewhurst switches are weak, they arc and soon burn away. To gain access to the terminal strip you might have to remove the motor end shield, some motor have the screws inside and you can't get to them with end shield on. Make marks using a scriber to give you guidance when re assembling the motor other wise it can be tricky. Careful you go and let us know how you get on. John

Hello Mick, if you go to "Vintage Radio" there several ex GPO employees who will most likely have a circuit diagram and I'm sure, have the answer to your meter problem. Also there are some AVO meter experts there as well should anyone need it.. John .

With the power OFF, remove the terminal box cover and you will see six terminals, three will be linked together (STAR mode), they are the three motor windings one end (1) and will be marked as follows if an older motor A1,B1.

and C1. If its a more modern one they will be marked V1,U,1 and W1instead. The other three terminals are where the original 415 volt would have been.

They all need to be reconnected as follows for an old motor, A1 to C2, A2 to B1 and B2 to C 1.

For the more modern motor V1 to U2, U1 to W2 and W1 to V2.

You can buy a Huanyang 2.2 KW inverter as my friends have done, from ebay for around £90 and the program on u tube. Should you need a copy I can send you one. John

I'm a member of the "British Two Stroke club" and I think there is section for Cycle Masters and similar MEAN machines. I'm sure you would be most welcome and be able to share information with others. If you send me a PM I will send you details of BTS. John

I can recommend a book called 'Farm Welding', full of sound advice and lots of pictures. John

Competent person is clearly defined on the HSE's website - LINK - it's actually one of the better phrases, because experience is often enough.. I wish it was, I've had a look and it looks to be deliberately vague, so that no one is actually responsible, lots of get outs. John

Same as Garry Wooding. We used to have REMAP group in my area and I did the electrical work until one had to be a "competent person", part 'P', and a PAT tester, I gave in. I have C&G FTC in Elect Installation Work and same Elect Tec 5. I can not find out from all the authorities how one becomes a competent person after more than 70 years in the trade. Strange old World. John

I think you are correct, that capacitor is for interference suppression and the motor will work just as well if you remove it. As you say your nice friendly neighbours might object if your cause TVI from the sparking motor brushes. You can buy replacement from Farnell, ESR, Rapid and several other firms. Regarding test the capacitor, don't bother as it should be tested at mains working voltage and they are not expensive. John

Hello Jonny Rock, I think our club has two lathe from deceased member workshops, which, which I'm told they wish to dispose of. Could be wrong. If you send me a PM with an email address, I'll forward you details. John

When looking into our family past some 25/30 years ago I used to visit the local Mormon Church who have vast copies of the 10 year censors. I am no way connected with the Mormon Church but I found them extremely helpful. John

When I worked on DMU in 1960's flat tyres were common, the driver had failed to wind off the trailing unit hand brake, they a had a hand brake at both ends. I don't recall it happening on locos. John

I notice several readers have mentioned broken saw blades. Years ago there was an article in ME on repairing band saw blades and I have been following the instruction with success. Following the instructions, I made a little jig to enable me to chamfer the broken ends using a belt sander. Using another jig the two ends are then clamped together with a very small gap and are Silver soldered together. I use wire type Silver solder. John

Its a repulsion type motor, which has an armature, similar ,but not the same as a DC motor has. It's old, it will have some cotton insulation which will be fragile by now, so dry it out in the airing cupboard . On some motors the brushes are shorted together when running and often there is a mark position for reverse running. John

If the government were really interested in saving energy they would alter the clock twice as we did in WW11. The Europeans do it without any problems. John