Here is a list of all the postings John Coates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Cobalt drill speed to remove broken tap |
24/02/2012 17:28:00 |
Right the cobalt drills have arrived so I can drill the broken tap out Original hole = 5mm Tap size = M6 x 1.0mm What size cobalt drill should I use and what RPM should I run it at? Thanks folks. The sooner you answer the sooner I can get at it. Oh and will I need coolant? (I don't have a pumped coolant supply btw) John |
Thread: Another broken tap thread |
18/02/2012 19:30:51 |
Sorry to resurrect this but the acid hasn't worked (been at it three days) so I'm going down the cobalt drill route (set ordered) and need to know what speed to run the drill at. The set I've bought goes up to 6.5mm from 1.5mm in 0.5mm increments so which should I use (original hole was 5mm for the 6mm tap)? Cheers folks! John |
Thread: Testing battery chargers sending me batty! |
18/02/2012 13:32:49 |
John I think I confused things as it wasn't these specific chargers I was thinking of using for the laser alignment project but for the low voltage lighting. I was trying to understand why the voltage I measured was different to the rating printed on each charger. This woud be so I could test other units to find one suitable for the laser. I think the answers so far have helped me a lot to understand why I am getting the results I am John |
17/02/2012 22:50:16 |
Les You are quite right about charger no.4 it is rated at 1.25A (just been into a cold garage to check!) Luckily I am into my second large glass of port so that hardened me up for the journey
Am going to follow it up with a glass of malt in case I have to go in there again! Edited By John Coates on 17/02/2012 22:51:43 Edited By John Coates on 17/02/2012 22:52:17 |
17/02/2012 21:53:43 |
Philip Thanks for the tip about testing in series. Will try that tomorrow. I have got another 2nd hand battery for my bike but don't want to attach my current battery charger before I know it is good. John |
17/02/2012 21:27:57 |
Hello again gents I am trying to find a mains powered charger to power some lights and a laser (for the MEW 186 article about centering). I am also trying to establish whether my current motorbike charger is knackered or not. From my collection of chargers old and new I drag them out and set to measuring their outputs with my Gunson UT105 multi meter. Charger No.1 - Black & Decker cordless drill In use to charge up my drill so the genuine end fitting is on Rated output 18.2v DC at 210mA Measured output 19.6v DC and 8v AC !!!
Charger No.2 old Bosch cordless drill Cable is removed from charging base unit and measurement taken across the two wires Rated output 14.5v DC at 250mA Measured output 18v AC !!
Charger No.3 for my new jump starter (bought last weekend) In use to charge up the new jump starter so the genuine end fitting is on Rated output 12v DC at 500mA Measured output 21v DC
Charger No.4 my motorbike charger Measured across the crocodile clips Rated output 12v DC at 1.25mA Measured output 0.17v DC
So my question is am I measuring these wrong or do the measured values usually differ so much from the ratings on their casings? Thanks, John Edited By John Coates on 17/02/2012 21:28:44 Edited By John Coates on 17/02/2012 21:29:10 |
Thread: MEW 186 laser alignment article |
13/02/2012 14:55:36 |
Gordon - the OD is only 12mm and the lower section only 9mm high so not sure a Jubilee clip comes that small |
13/02/2012 13:27:26 |
Thanks guys, it's off !
Inspired by your suggestions I put electrical tape around each half then clamped the pliers onto this and they came apart.
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13/02/2012 08:27:18 |
Hi folks
I have bought one of these lasers but am struggling to separate the two halves of the main body. The lens cap is off but the rest is just too slippery to get a good grip. I have tried cloth under pliers but it just slips.
I am trying not to mark the outer body. Any suggestions?
Thanks
John
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Thread: Small vice at Aldi (no good as vice but good 3rd hand) £6 |
12/02/2012 20:48:23 |
Alan
TBH having looked some more at the vice it isn't bad. It has the same thread on the leadscrew as a similar sized Draper clamp on vice I use regularly and this copes with filing t-nuts and other stuff. It's got some good clamping force with little "v's" in the jaws to hold round items. OK I don't wallop it with a mallet but you knows the limits of your equipment and apply braincells accordingly
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12/02/2012 19:38:12 |
I bought three of those calipers last time to use on my machines e.g. digital depth measure for tailstock, cross slide and mill quill travel
Still haven't got round to fitting them yet!
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12/02/2012 18:29:00 |
Bought one of these today after someone posted about it one one of my motorbike forums
Not very good as a vice but very useful as a 3rd hand having rubber covers over the jaws and the suction base for stability. The jaws are metal and 70m wide
First thought is using it to hold a micrometer
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Thread: Announcement from Arc Euro Trade Ltd. |
11/02/2012 14:30:45 |
Well as Harrogate is the only one within reasonable travelling distance for me I'll be there
![]() I have managed to get most of the tooling I want but a set or two of ARC's JS 20-40-80 blocks were on the "get list" so I guess they won't be being getten gotten!
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Thread: Small Power Hacksaw |
11/02/2012 13:27:12 |
Posted by Wolfie on 08/02/2012 18:49:10:
Anyone know if theres any plans/castings out there to make a SMALL power hacksaw? Surely a search of the back issues of MEW will reveal lots. Unfortunately I am using a Macbook without my MEW index but will look later when I can access my other computer |
11/02/2012 09:34:27 |
I agree with Doug
Bought a NuTools 6 by 4 bandsaw secondhand and once I got some new blades from Tuffsaws it goes like a knife through butter and good right angled edges
As for small stock I am going to make one of those clamping tables that goes between the jaws
John
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Thread: Not a question more of an introduction |
06/02/2012 12:11:46 |
MM
Nice to see another member applying the tools and tehniques to bigger projects like motorbikes. Mine are a bit more modern (1990's) but I'm enjoying the learning curve
John |
Thread: Another broken tap thread |
29/01/2012 11:07:38 |
Update
Using a punch and a BFH didn't work! Guess the thread depth of 0.5mm the tap has cut means it is in there pretty fast
Anybody got this EIM article on a spark eroder for £15 ?
John |
26/01/2012 06:26:47 |
Thanks for all the help guys
There just isn't anything protruding above the hole to get a grip on or weld something to. Just a tiny jagged point. So I'm going to use the punch out method with a punch from the underside. I've got some more of this plate to put under the workpiece when I get to work with the BFH. If that doesn't work I'll look to buy a 5mm cobalt drill but I'll have to come at it from the underside due to the jagged broken top which skews any drill off centre
Having now broken four 6mm taps recently I try to be gentle and thought my method would be OK. Seems that a larger core would have helped my cause a lot.
And to answer some of the other points:
Drills - my two sets are 1.0 - 13.0mm rising in 0.5mm OR an imperial set rising by 64ths to 1/2"
Tap - HSS first (tapered) tap. Bought in a 3 piece set from ebay supposedly 1st, 2nd and plug but they and a replacement set were all 1st type so I gave up chasing the seller
Onward and upward!
John
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25/01/2012 22:46:44 |
Sid: mild steel plate just over 15mm thick. Out of the 16 holes I needed to do (four riser blocks with 4 holes each) I've got 14 nicely tapped and the two broken ones. I used cutting fluid and cut about 1/8th of a turn then backed off. Once or twice I removed the tap from the hole during the tapping, cleaned out the threads, added more cutting fluid and carried on tapping. I got it right 14 times out of 16 !! Got the 5mm core drill size from my Zeus book |
25/01/2012 22:19:34 |
Alan: do you reckon a sacrificial 5mm drill through the underside and a socket over the top then whacking the socket will do the same as your method? |
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