Here is a list of all the postings Laurence B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: marking blue |
20/02/2010 11:45:01 |
Trevor-I think what you need is marking out fluid (Reeves and others sell it) and as Meryck says what you have is engineers blue for checking fits,flatness of parts etc. |
Thread: Perpetual Motion |
15/02/2010 16:17:25 |
The energy for the solar system came from somewhere.Astrophysicists are still try finding out from where the energy originated-their best theory so far is that of the 'Big Bang'. The sun is not a perpetual source of energy either.As it exhausts its nuclear energy,it will swell to become a red giant star which will engulf the Earth,ending any life that might remain at that time.The sun will then collapse to a white dwarf star and slowly fade away. Theres no such thing as a perpetual motion machine! |
13/02/2010 12:13:52 |
Clearly Mr.Phipps does not understand the basic laws of physics.It concerns me that there are people like Mr.Phipps who think they know,and clearly don't. |
Thread: 2MT Test Bar |
02/02/2010 12:09:38 |
As Peter Gain says-you won't go far wrong buying from Arrand Engineering.I have bought a few things from them.Ok they're not cheap but you get is quality,unlike some imported items which sometimes leave a little to be desired. |
Thread: lifford hall |
15/01/2010 16:59:21 |
Posted by David Clark 1 on 15/01/2010 09:55:17: Hi There Problems can be posted on this website for all to see. I won't get the drawings altered as we have had various complaints about errors which were incorrect. regards David Quite right too! And this is a much better website too.Well done to all concerned. |
Thread: Brown & Sharpe Machine? |
12/01/2010 17:08:01 |
An interesting thread.I have an old Browne and Sharpe 0-1" micrometer (still in its wooden box) that belonged to my father.The micrometer is older than I am,and in much better condition! The mike is inscribed "Browne and Sharp Mfg.Co. Providence, R.I. U.S.A." |
Thread: Nechells in 5" gauge. |
11/01/2010 13:30:39 |
There are some photographs of the full sized 'Nechells' locos on this website http://industrialrailwaysofthemidlands.fotopic.net/c1710886.html Might be of interest. Edited By Laurence B on 11/01/2010 13:31:32 Edited By Laurence B on 11/01/2010 13:32:14 |
Thread: A professional boiler - poor service |
11/01/2010 13:19:53 |
An unsatisfactory state of affairs especially as you've found parts are missing or in the wrong place.In full sized practice,any boiler or pressure vessel that deviated from design without permission,would not be passed by the inspecting authority.Makes me wonder what the CE marking of model boilers is supposed to tell us. Edited By Laurence B on 11/01/2010 13:20:35 |
Thread: Model Engineer 4369 |
11/01/2010 13:12:53 |
ME 4369 arrived here in rural Staffordshire this morning,Monday 11th. Very interesting read as always.Nice to see the severe weather hasn't affected ME! |
Thread: Trevithicks dredger engine |
31/12/2009 12:12:03 |
I built a version of Tubal Cain's Trevithick engine,modified to the 1808 locomotive 'Catch Me Who Can'.I worked from the published drawings and didn't have too many problems.I made steel connecting rods as the original loco may have had wrought iron rods rather than wooden ones as used on Trevithick's earlier engines.It is a very interesting project to build. |
Thread: Water Tank Adhesive |
31/12/2009 11:59:32 |
There was an article that appeared in the model engineering presss a while ago by John Cousins.He had recommended using a resin compound that restorers of old cars and motor bikes have used to repair rusty and leaky petrol tanks. |
Thread: Water cut wheels |
16/12/2009 11:23:38 |
I'd also recommend SCISS Ltd.They cut out some wheels for a model of Trevithick's 'Catch Me Who Can' loco I built a while ago,and I was very pleased with the results-and the cost!They are a helpful company. |
Thread: H.A. Taylor |
15/12/2009 13:42:44 |
Some of your great grandfathers work also appears in Martin Evans' book 'The Model Steam Locomotive' (Argus Books 1983),the images of the LNWR tank and the Black 5 also appear on your very interesting website. |
Thread: Starting out |
03/11/2009 13:39:24 |
Hi Jamea,
I think you would almost certainly need a lathe at the very least.You could obtain a vertical slide to go with it and then carry out milling operations using the lathe as well as turning operations.A drilling machine would also be handy.You may then consider buying a milling machine.
Hand tools will also be required,files,taps,dies,reamers,drill sets,marking out equipment and so on,as well as tooling for both lathe and miller,and also some heating equipment for soldering/brazing.And you'll need a good workbench too.
Best start on a relatively simple loco to start with. Jim Vass (the usual disclaimer) does a range of 7-1/4" gauge locos,drawings and castings,including a small GWR 0-4-0 tank loco which might be of interest . http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jim.jvml I think GLR supply drawings and castings for two small 7-1/4" gauge locos too
Good luck with this! Edited By Laurence B on 03/11/2009 13:40:33 |
Thread: B & Q Steel stock |
30/10/2009 14:26:08 |
Though I live near Burton on Trent I haven't been to the B&Q Superstore (is this in Wellington Road?) but in the past,I've found the range of metal sections available from the store in Lichfield Street quite useful.I used some of their 1"x 1/4" black bar,and some of their threaded bar,nuts and washers to make up a length of track for the loco that I'm building.It's hardly show-track,(pretty it ain't!) but it is handy for the workshop. |
Thread: Riveting |
29/10/2009 10:50:17 |
There is a good description of the late Martin Evans' method of forming such rivet heads in his book 'The Model Steam locomotive' This involves the use of three rivet snaps to gently form the round head.
Also,I believe Dave Noble sells (or used to) a rivetting tool which forms double headed rivets.
As Meryk says-this certainly is far easier in theory than practice! Edited By Laurence B on 29/10/2009 10:50:45 |
Thread: Large Model |
20/10/2009 10:20:32 |
You could try Peter Southworth in Chesterfield..He provides drawings and castings for a number of stationary steam engines,pumps etc.His website is http://www.southworthengines.smartemail.co.uk/ |
Thread: Tender materials |
20/10/2009 09:43:13 |
I'm building the tender for a Don Young Class 2 at the moment and have used brass sheet for the tank,but I can't see any reason not to have made it in steel.It certainly would have been a lot cheaper!
A member of the club to which I belong,recently completed a Class 2,with a steel tender tank.After every running session he dries out the inside of the tank with a hair drier (I'm not sure his missus approves or even knows!) He reports no problems with rusting.
I did read somewhere of a model engineer who coated the inside of his tender tank with a resin compound used for the restoration of old and rusty petrol tanks of vintage cars and motor bikes. |
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