Member postings for oldvelo

Hi Ian

Now that we have more info on the job in hand.

The object is to secure an injector into the cylinder head on a diesel engine of cast iron or aluminum alloy.

Drill out the 10 mm hole and tap out to 14 mm and fabricate a softer bolt 8.8 as max strength 5.5 will be more than adequate with a slot to drive it in with a screw driver.

Loctite the 14 mm screw in the head and allow it to harden and dry.

Make sure that the internal thread is absolutely clean and no loctite liquid still in the thread to avoid making the injector hold down bolt a permanant fixture.

The insert screw does not need to be super hard as the cylinder head is relatively soft!

To finish with a question what is the diameter of the original hold down bolts for the injector as i have serious doubts that it is only 5 mm @ approximately 25 mm long

If as I suspect that is 8 mm then use a 14 mm for the plug.

Good luck with the repair and be positive this can be fixed.

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 03/08/2014 00:51:07

Hi

A useful source that I use for machine tool accessories is

http://littlemachineshop.com/

With the NZ dollar around 80 cents US it is a viable to import.

Be aware that shipping costs are pricey and that the value must be under $400 NZ or you pay the dreaded GST.

If you have a milling machine with time and patience you can fabricate your own personal customized set.

There are over 20 of them now roosting on a shelf behind my lathe with a couple of QCTP's.

Once the tool posts were made they started to reproduce tool holders and now they are everywhere.

Eric

Hi Jerry

An old mentor of mine insisted that the best way to tighten any three jaw chuck be it on a lathe or drilling machine

was to

"tighten it using all four holes on a three jaw chuck".

This will grip so tight that then it will need the extension on the key to loosen it.

Swinging on an extended chuck key in one hole only will damage the scroll.

A keyless chuck can be pulled up tight with a strap wrench that is used for removing oil filters a gentle nudge is all that is required no massive force.

Eric

Hi to All

Nice find Graham rugged and straight forward piece of machinery and a useful addition to any home workshop.

A damper is not required as stated by other posters on a small machine just some means of adding extra weight for cutting thicker material.

Aim for around 85 to 105 strokes per minute and cutting on the "Pull Stroke" on a small machine.

A comment for John on the Axminster Hacksaw the "Air Spring" damper will be more effective if the top mounting pivot point is is moved to the right and fixed closer to the the saw frame pivot.

Anyone interested in "Power Hacksaws" do a search on "You Tube" and enjoy.

Eric

A safer way than using Sulphuric Acid is to use ordinary household "Washing soda" solution of around 1 cup full of crystals to 1 gallon of water.

With the file-files connected to positive and the negative to a lump of lead steel or carbon block.

True the result is not a 'New" file but one that can be used for roughing out and then finish with a

new file.

Avoid stainless steel as an anode or cathode in this process and the contamination from chromium in the brew.

A DC welder can be used as an alternative to a battery charger you must NOT use at a HIGH amperage setting as the results can spectacular and very DANGEROUS. Lowest setting only is sufficient.

Eric

Hi Jo

A simple test for silver solder Learned a lad.

Grab a stick and bend it If it bends easily the it is most probably "Easy Flo" Low Temp "flux required"

If it is hard to bend then it is "Silfos" used for no flux joins in copper and bronzes.

Eric

Hi Steve

Following your posting with interest being a "Poly Vee" fanatic

Pleased to see "Thanks for the tip about using a tap to cut the grooves but I have ground up a carbide grooving tool with the 40 degree angle.

Near enough good enough not for me. The enemy of the best is not the worst but the good enough.

Eric

Hi Steve

Go for it with "Poly Vee" belts and aluminium pulleys I can recommend them as all metal working machines in my workshop have them.

Instead of castings you can use ali discs 12 mm thick bolted together to flanged boss bored to fit the shaft size.

Looking at Normans excellent photo this seems to be a viable proposition.

EDIT Looking again at the photo Maybe the large pulley is to big to be turned on a "Myford" so a proportionate reduction in diameter may be used.

PJ  "Poly Vee" will run on a 20 mm pulley much tighter than a "Vee Belt".

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 12/12/2013 19:05:45

Here Goes I'll stick my Totally Biased Opinion on good Brazing-Silver Soldering technique.

All advice offered so far is good practice.
The bit that I would like to add is that you use the flame and hot gas stream to protect the area of molten metal at all times by NOT flicking the flame sideways on and off the area to be Joined!!!
Move the Torch closer or further away from the joint keeping the flame on the area you are working on this will allow you to control the temprature of the molten puddle from liquid to solid.
The Enemy of molten Silver Solder is AIR.
Whatever source of heating is used it is the hot and almost inert gas that is the flame and hot gas stream that will protect the puddle.

Eric

Hi Rob

sorry to state the most obvious but is the rotation correct. Yes a gap in the housing to shaft is normal to allow the outlet on the discharge to be throttled and release the excess flow back to the tank.

Is the converter variable speed

Eric

Hi Ron

Regards a rev counter you could use a "Bicycle Computer" with the trip magnet on the lathe spindle.

There was an article in "Model Engineers Workshop" a while back that gave all the info How to do it.

You program the wheel circumference to 167 centimetres then the reading needs to be multiplied by 10

Therefore 127.5 = 1275 RPM.

Here is link to the controls that I use

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Motor-Speed-Controllers/90-180-VDC-SPEED-CONTROL-W-POT.axd

They are small and compact and fairly easy to wire up BUT they must be set up to suit the motor being used.

You need have the skills required to do this as high voltage DC current is very unforgiving and can be FATAL.

Use the existing motor pulley and flywheel as it helps with a bit smoother running construct a new pulley for the counter shaft to match the "Poly Vee" pitch on the motor.

When you are up and running you will have an even more smooth running an very versatile machine.

Eric

Hi Ron

Most treadmill motors are 180 volts DC And in the 1.5 to 2.5 hp Treadmill duty which translates to about just over half the "Treadmill Horse Power"

Having said that they are an excellent motor for smaller lathes and mills.

Setting up the motor controller can be a bit tricky but when properly set they give great results.

My own machines are all DC powered ( Lathe two Drill Presses And a SX2 Mill Drill)

Very happy with the performance.

Keep us posted will be pleased to help get this project up and running.

Eric

Hi

I guess that the question has been answered already so no formulae from me.

A point I remember about triple expansion marine engines with a condensor is that the condensor pressure is much lower than atmospheric pressure so a slight gain in power on the exhaust stroke by the negative pressure on the piston.

Hi OuBallie

Thanks for the intrest have had difficulty posting piocs on this site so opened a thread

http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9043.0.html

Hope this helps

Eric

""A photo/details appreciated please.""

The oil pump is a gear pump that is driven by a 24 volt DC motor power from a transfomer with a DC rectifier.

The power supply is approximately 6volts DC fed to the motor to give a reduced speed.
The oil from the gearbox is passed through a trap that catches any particles bigger
than 0.010 mm or .004 inch.
Through the pump and then an automotive oil filter to feed the manifold to feed bearings and gears.

The “Manifold” is fabricated from two pieces of Clear Polycarbonate sheet 10mm thick
with the oil galleries milled into the top sheet.
And screwed together with a thin strip of “Super Glue” to seal the outer edge where the boltholes to fix the lid in place.

The underside is drilled and a short piece of plastic tubing push fitted to deliver oil to bearings and gears.

Eric

Apologies Luke for the intrusion to answer this question.

Hi Roger

What is the mains voltage where you live if it is in the USA then what about a variable speed AC to DC convertor from

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=electric&keyword=EPMC

This will give a feed rate from over 5 inches per minute down to 0.022 inches per minute.

Just wire it up and full control with a single knob to control the speed.

The initial setup can be a bit fiddly but once setup properly will give excellent control over the feed rate.

If you are on 230 volt AC main then a stepdown transformer is required to out put 110volts AC.

A DC motor Fanatic

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 03/09/2013 03:06:48

Hi Neil

I run a metal cutting bandsaw with 6 ribbed J section poly vee belts with the drive wheel pulley of

150 mm dia drive @ 26 RPM with no sign of slippage.

Eric

Hi Luke

Just run it with the oil that is inthe gearbox to run it in but before filling it with Tellus 68 flush it out thoroughly with "Straight" mineral oil 30 SAE it will do no harm if you run the spindle for a while with no load on it this will help with the removal of the old oil and any other debris in the oil sump.

I had problems with the original oil in the headstock of my 10 X 27 lathe plus the spindle bearings were packed with "Bear Grease".

A complete clean out and some extra oilways drilled.

Fitted an external oil pump and filter and fabricated a manifold to replace the top cover of the gearbox to deliver oil to all bearings and gears.

Now a very quiet running gearbox.

Eric

Hi Paul

One of my jobs when working as factory engineer was overhaul of machinery and motors.

The normal procedure to replace open race grease lubricated bearings was to fit in your case a

6203 2rs bearing with a "Wave Washer" in the housing opposite the drive shaft.

You can expect many years of running from them.

1969 Ransome's joined with Hoffman's and Pollard's as subsidiaries of RHP Limited.

One small note it would appear that your motor bearings were replaced some time after that date.

Eric

Hi Derek

This topic can be found on this forum at "" Beginners questions > Weir donkey pump""

There is lots of usefull information.

Eric