Member postings for oldvelo

Hi

Perhaps I Have read this wrong.

What is the Tractor Horse Power? Then a diesel of similar power to drive the machine directly would be the way to go.

Eric

Hi Mark

Is this the belt type on your machine "Gates 5M710. PolyFlex® 8902-0710 V-Belt - 5M Section, 3/16 in Top Width, 27.95 in Outside Length, Polyurethane Material "

What is the motor power on your lathe as this size seems to be big enough for nothing bigger than around 1/8 hp. unless on very large diameter pulleys with very high peripheral speeds are used.

Polyurethane belts do not perform very well when excess slippage occurs when used as a clutch.

Being a convert to "Poly Vee Multi Rib Belts I ditched Vee Belts on my machines where ever possible and have run them trouble free for several years now.

Broken belt suggests that it is being used to attempt to transmit a high torque loading on a very small belt cross section.

This MAY help better prices LINK   and in my VERY biased opinion a good deal

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 10/09/2017 05:40:40

Hi Lee

The outer bearing needs to be a sliding fit on the spindle not a press fit. The spindle under the bearing needs to be reduced with emery cloth until the bearing will slide on with finger pressure only.

They need a light preload with the back nuts are essential holding the inner races taking up the free play.

Eric

Hi Robin

Followed this subject on another forum and offered my solution.

No Bearings were damaged in these photos

LINK

Hi There is a Mosquito Aircraft video HERE

Eric

Hi Paul

It is possible that the control is is a rec badged KB Control fitted to switch gear circuit by Morse.

Take a closer look at the internals on the speed control for clues.

Remove the brushes from the motor and check the terminals with a multi meter. The two in open circuit are armature and closed circuit the field windings.

It is possible that the Rotary Knob Isolator Has been wired to reverse the Armature wires and ALSO switch of the current to the controller.

When Up And running allow the motor to stop before reversing is advisable.

Eric

Hi Nick

Almost all lathes mills etc the sight glass is the oil level read with the machine stopped and the level halfway up the glass.

"" then how do I know how much to put in?"" With oil half up the sight glass (Top Up if necessary) then drain into a container an measure that amount.

​Chipmaster

Hope this helps

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 10/07/2017 22:29:19

Hi Khurram

KWIL is on the right track to remove the collar on the end of the screw. The nut is in a pocket on picture 3

If it is stuck and rusted in it is possible to use Electrolysis

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 27/06/2017 08:06:17

Hi Neil

Thanks for the info and apologies to Andrew for the Hijack

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Eric

Hi Andrew

The mix ratio is not very critical as around 5 gallons water to 1/3 to 1/2 cup laundry soda as a guide line seems fine.

Adding extra washing soda will not make it work any quicker.

The higher the current it will make it work quicker and raise the temperature of the solution and produce more hydrogen gas so good ventilation is essential.

No Stainless Steel electrodes thanks the break down into the solution so mild steel is ideal.

Eric

Hi

Not being a fan of using Acid around my person and the dangers involved can I suggest and safer way.

Use Electrolysys Method setup article at

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Clean and remove rust oil and swarf from the teeth with the files connected to the NEGATIVE terminal until clean

Then Connect the files To the POSITIVE terminal then monitor the progress until you have a file that is again usable

PS can someone instruct me how to setup the "LINK" function on this forum

Eric

Hi I had similar problems with an X2 Mill Drill so I ditched the gear drive and progressed to a Poly Vee Belt Drive and a 1.25 hp Treadmill Motor and a AC to DC reversing controller.

PM me if you want more detailed drawings in dxf or pdf format

Photos in my Albums

Eric

Hi Martin

Having used this technique for a number of years on various restoration projects can I point other readers to

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Wire brush of Blackened oxides under running water and remove excess water the spray with WD 40 Or CRC Water Repellent.

A Blackening process to finish off.

Eric

Hi Chris

I take it from the size of the motor that you will be building a working model Hacksaw and not for serious work.

Up size as Andy Ash suggests if you want the job in cut the same day.

Target 60 to 100 strokes per minute @ 100 mm stroke with a frame weight of around 5 kgs with a 300 mm blade.

Most of all enjoy building something you have designed and built yourself It's a good feeling "I Made That".

Eric

Hi Henry

Using Copper to Copper joints personal preference would be "Silfos" the trade name it is a harder silver solder that does not require flux.

Not being a fan of LPG for silver soldering I use Oxy-Acetylene or Acetylene if it is available.

Keep the flame on the job at all times and adjust the temprature by moving the flame further away or closer.

Waggling side to side will allow the molten metal to oxidize and weaken the joint.

Eric

Hi Sean

I'm with Thor on this one used the principals set out by"Popular Science Magazine".

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=wobbly+hacksaw

more details on web site

It does not fit in the "Super Compact" category but continues to give excellent performance

Eric

Hi

"The motor belt tension should be applied just by the weight of the motor moving freely on its pivot".

May I add to this that the motor then fixed securely to prevent it climbing up the belt and slipping when making intermittent or heavy cuts.

Eric

Hi Sid

"Also what sort of motor should I consider".

A 12 or 24 volt DC wind screen wiper motor is a good place to start and a PWM DC Speed Control from that corner of the world.

My limited experience is using them for the power feed on A lathe and a Mill drill plus the oil pump on the lathe.

http://www.kbelectronics.com

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Gearmotors/ May be useful place to start.

Eric

Sure you are two thirds there grab a buddy and another key then you have it right

Eric

Hi Neil

Well Arthur Jacob's patent doesn't say use multiple holes

"The first key that is shown is formed of an indented spindle 15, having a handle 16 and a gear 17. Then the end 18 of this key is inserted into a socket 14, the teeth of the gear will mesh with the rack-teeth on the edge of the sleeve, and when the key thus placed is turned the meshing of the teeth imparts a rotary movement to the sleeve and nut and causes the desired opening or closing of the tool-holding jaws. 7"

Yes this is correct for opening and closing jaws but say nowt about tightening on a drill shank could have omitted the other two holes for clarity and saved on machining costs why have three when one would suffice.

Eric