Member postings for Les Jones 1

I agree that it worth getting a 450 volt rated capacitor if you can.

Les.

This is one possible source

asAAOSwlHBZ0hn1:rk:3f:0">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motor-Start-Starting-Capacitor-150uf-150mfd-microfarads-230V-250V-300V/122735905448?hash=item1c93a14aa8:gasAAOSwlHBZ0hn1:rk:3f:0

 Before buying a new capacitor check that the centrifugal switch is closed when the motor is stopped. If you don't know how to do this you will need to post a picture of the connection box on your motor.

Les,

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 25/11/2018 12:17:58

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 25/11/2018 12:18:53

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 25/11/2018 12:20:14

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 25/11/2018 12:20:50

Hi Robbo & John,
I agree that this is the way it is probably wired. All the information I found on the web uses the same numbering system as your's (Robbo.) I did not find any with the same numbering system as Ray's motor. It should be easy to identify the windings that are already connected in star with resistance measurments. I imagine all the winding with the same letter are on the same phase. The only thing left is to work out the polarity of the three separate windings. The only way I can think od doing this is to connect about 12 volts AC between two legs of the star connected winding (Let's say U & V ) then connect one of the other U wires to the U end of the star. Then measure from the voltage from the V end of the star to the end of the U winding that is not connected to the star. If the reading is greater than 12 volts then the polarity is correct. If it is less than 12 volts then the polarity is wrong. If the rotor was removed I would expect the reading to about 18 volts for the correct polarity or 6 volts for the wrong polarity. If the rotor is fitted then it will probably change these readings as it will behave like a transformer with shorted turns.
I have never played with this type of dual voltage motor so this is all theory. If Ray posts a picture of the data plate on the motor we may not need to do this. There could also be the required information inside the motor's connection box

Les.

If you are doing it in the lathe it might be better to start with a bar a bit larger diameter than 25mm. (Say 35mm. ) You could then hold it in a 4 jaw chuck and bore a 25mm hole right through. (This assumes it is short enough to fit in the 4 jaw.) You could then saw it in two and turn it down to 25mm diameter.

Les.

I have found this web page by serching for "American three phase dual voltage motors" Your motor could be this configuration but with a different numbering system for the connections. You should be able to confirm if this is the case by measuring resitsnce values between the terminals. Even if we confirm this to be the case I don't know how to work out the way it should be connected to get the phasing of the three separate coils matched to the three coils allready connected in star configuration. If you post a picture of the label on the motor it may give us a clue to the numbering system used by the manufacturer.

Les.

Hi Jon,
This is a link to some information I based the design of my furnace on. I have not tryed melting irin yet fur it works well with aluminium **LINK**
There are links on my website with the oil burner I made and the blower system I used.
Here is a link to the place where I bought most of the refractory materials for my furnace **LINK**

I also have quite a few pictures of the construction of my furnace that I could probably upload onto "Dropbox" so that you could view them. There are too many to upload onto this forum.

Les.

Is it not possible to swing the banjo further away from the line joining the 48 and 24 tooth gears From your picture on 15/11/18 at 22:18 I can see that swinging the banjo anti clockwise may make the 127 tooth gear touch the belts but is you swing it clockwise so that the 127 tooth gear is to the right of the line jining the 24 and 48 tooth gears it looks like there is nothing to get in the way. I have rotated your original picture to make it easier to view.

Les.

Hi Michael,
I misread the first post. I thought he was using the 127 tooth as an idler in both setups.

Les.

I assume thet that the 127T gear is the one closest to the headstock and the bottom of the picture is to the right.
Remove the outer gear (The one with more than 127 teeth.) and replace it with any small gear or spacer (If supplied with your lathe. Now re fit the gears and sleave so that the small gear (Or spacer) is closest to the headstock. I recently had to make a longer stud to go on the banjo and an extra pivot point for an idler to enable me to cut a very coarse thread (About 40 mm pitch) Regarding the picture. Many cameras put information in the meta data part of the picture file which indicates which way the camera was orientated. I think some image processing software does not deal with this information correctly when rotating a picture.
You may have to rotate the spindle or the leascrew a small amount to get the gears to mesh. You will have to move the position of the pivot stud on the banjo slightly. You may also have to move the position of the banjo slightly.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 14/11/2018 08:48:23

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 14/11/2018 08:54:20

From this picture of the XMT2325 I think R17 is the large resistor in the middle of the board.

If I am correct it's value is 15 K ohms.

Les.

Hi Ian,
It;s a Chester DB-10G wich I susspect is based on the 9 x 20. It has had quite a few modifications made to it.

Les.

Screwcut a coarse thread (About 40mm pitch) on wood.

It did require a modified changewheel setup.

The gear ratio was too high to drive it from the spindle so I had to fit a handle to the input of the gearbox that drives the leadscrew,

Les.

This is a lash up I made to reduce wear on the rack & pinion when cutting keyways.

A block of wood was cut to fit between the slide ways on the bed and a T bracket made from offcuts of angle and box section. This was bolted through the wooden block to two wooden cross pieces under the bed. I might even get round to making proper pivot points some day rather than just bolts. It is also quicker than using the rack & piniion. One other point. Some times I find it better to mount the tool bit so it cuts when moving towards the tailstock rather than towards the headstock. It hase less temdency to dig in.

Les.

Hi Jordon,
I can't read the full load amps values on the motor plate. (It looks like 4.6 and 3.6 but that seems a bit low for a 3 HP motor. (A table I found online gives 6.1 amps) I would suggest a starter with a contact rating of at least 10 amps and a thermal overload that can be set to the full load amps. The transformer looks like a 50 volt secondary. This could be for either a machine light or for the control circuit, You will need to trace that part of the wiring. There may be another transformer somewhere. You will need to check.

Les.

From the red, yellow and blue wires I suspect it is three phase. The missing item is likely to be a contactor together with a thermal overload. It should be possible to get a modern replacement. You fill need to find the full load current of the motor to select the contact rating and the correct rating thermal overload. You will also need to find out what coil voltage is required for the contactor. From a recent thread on this forum relating to a Colchester student lathe I found a schematic that showed that the used a 110 volt coil. If this is the case then there will be a transformer to provide the 110 volts AC. It MAY be the transformer in the picture but I would expect a larger one. It the switch on this panel a reversing switch or does it have a different function ?

Les.

Hi clogs,
If you still can't post pictures on the forum with the help from neil's links the PM me and I will give you my email address so you can send pictures as attachments. If you can post the schematic as it is shoing the origin of the wire then it should be possible to work out where it should be connected. It could just have two of the three phases in and out and the third phase just bypassing it. it could also have the three phases in and out. If it has a centre off position it could be one of the previous ways plus two wires that cause the main starter to drop out in the centre off position. This would stop you from going straight from one direction to the other.

EDIT. I've just noticed John's post with the schematic that uses two cantactors, one for forward and one for reverse. Is yours like this or does it have a single contactor plus a reveresing switch ? (As opposed to a forward, a reverse and a stop button.)

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 17/09/2018 20:11:49

If the 2mm slots don't need to be very precise you could try sawing them with a hacksaw.
You could also plane it out in the lathe the same way you would cut a keyway. You could probably make the tool from a circular saw blade or a broken machine hacksaw blade.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 07/09/2018 18:44:05

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 07/09/2018 18:45:05

How confiident are you that its WAS 300 watts and not 300 VA ? That makes a big difference to the reasoning.

Les.

t looks like a single phase induction motor of some kind. Post a picture of the information plate on the motor. It is unlikely that will be able to reduce the speed of this type of motor. What is the speed of the motor and how many RPM do yo want the turntable to rotate ? It would be better to reduce the speed of the turntable with a gearbox or a suitable pulley system.

Les.

Hi Ian,
I don't have trouble with condensation in my workshop but when the motor failed on my Seig X3 mill Arc Euro suspected it could have been caused by dampness so I clamped two heat sink resistors to the new motor together with a thermostat using jubilee clips. I use a 12 lighting transformer to feed them in the winter. If you can get some old 12 volt lighting transformers you could connect 3 in series to get 36 volts. (NOTE. If connecting them in series they must be real transformers. Not the electronic ones that seem to be sold now. You can use the electronic ones as long as you do not try to connect them in series or parallel.) For the chuck you could bolt one to a suitable lump of metal that could be clamped in the chuck. A piece of thick walled aluminium pipe that extended inside the chuck would probably be the best way.

Les.