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Member postings for DMB

Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Harrogate model engineering 2011 ?
14/04/2011 09:07:22
Hello all,
Try my usual trick for xbns. Call up Warco/Myford/Reeves/Blackgates and they will tell you on their websites which xbns they will attend for months ahead.
Thread: Paint Stripper
14/04/2011 00:22:17
Wot more interference from politcians? The sooner we dump Brussels mob and go our own way like we did for 1000 years, the better!
Back on topic, has anyone tried alternatives, like say gas jet paint burner instead of `cold` chemical?
Thread: Horizontal Milling With Inclinable Head Machine
14/04/2011 00:11:02
Run out of space!
I tend to use largest dia endmill or slotdrill I can for max metal removal, so its usually 5/8"D for which the book recommends as follows:-
Endmills: Stainless etc 200RPM, 1 3/8"/min, Bronze etc., 385RPM, 3 1/8"/min, Ali,Brass,
1600RPM, 13"/min.
Slotdrills: Stainless etc, 240RPM, 1 1/2"/min, Bronze etc, 600RPM, 5 1/4"/min, Ali, Brass, 1800RPM, 15"/min.
Hope all the above gets you off to a flying start!
John.
14/04/2011 00:00:45
Hi Dunc,
Further to prev., just dug out Tubal Cain`s Model Engineers Handbook, 3rd Ed., page 5.12. Max cut for endmills, depth = same as dia of cutter, width of cut = dia. divided by 4 .
Slot drills have 2 flutes and cutting edges of unequal size, the larger sweeps across the axial centre, enabling it to plunge - cut full diameter for width of cut and depth, equal to half the diameter. Now it gets complicated!
4 - flute endmills :-
Stainless, Silver Steel, Monel Metal,1/2" dia cutter, speed = 250 and feed 2"/minute. 1/4" cutter, 500 RPM, feed 7/8"/min.For 1/8" dia., 1000 RPM, feed, 3/8"/min.
Bronze, Cast Iron, Copper, Gunmetal , Phos. Bronze, Mild steel, a 1/2"D = 480RPM, 3"/min., 1/4"D = 960RPM, 1 3/4"/min., 1/8"D = 1920RPM, 1"/min.
Ali.,Brass, 1/2"D = 2000RPM, 13"/min, 1/4"D = 4000RPM, 8"/min, 1/8"D = max. avail.
Slot Drills:-
Stainless and Silver Steels, Monel Metal, 1/2"D = 300RPM, 1 1/2"/min, 1/4"D = 600RPM, 1"/min, 1/8"D = 1200RPM, 1/2"/min.
Bronze, etc., 1/2"D = 800RPM, 5 1/4"/min, 1/4"D = 1600RPM, 3"/min, 1/8"D = 3200RPM, 1 5/8"/min.
Ali, Brass, 1/2"D=2200RPM, 15"/min, 1/4"D=4500RPM, 9"/min, 1/8"D= max avail.
13/04/2011 23:16:44
Hi Dunc,
Just seen your posting and as no - one responded so far, I`ve decided to risk looking silly! Firstly, I am a little confused but I think you are saying that you have a combination horizontal and vertical mill, frequently and incorrectly called, "universal." I have had a look at warco`s site and their WM18 mill and it is a vertical column with a vertical head which can be swung from side to side, clock - pendulum style, if you like.
This type takes endmills and slot drills, preferably screwed shank type properly screwed in to a proper milling chuck to ensure they are secure and dont wind themselves out, causing mayhem. An overarm is only used on a hrizontal mill to support an outboard bearing for the horiz. spindle which carries a side and face cutter. These cutters with their multiple teeth around the periphery, makes them resemble a water wheel! The vert. mill takes its different type of cutters in a milling chuck and they dont need any overarm and outboard bearing. Get a Clarkson milling chuck with correct MT to suit your mill and read some books to find out speeds and feeds. These depend on cutter diameter and cutting speed of metal being butchered, Brass, Ali., Mild Steel, Cast Iron, all different. As speeds infintely variable, 50 - 2500, you should get perfect speed for job in hand.
Good luck, John.
Thread: Wooden workshop floor
13/04/2011 10:11:52
At a previous address where my parents kept chickens during the last war and in subsequent years, we had occasional rat infestations under sheds, including my workshop. I understand that rats keep on coming back looking for eggs for food and like most animals have a very sensitive sense of smell so can detect where chickens have been years before. I solved problem by concreting over the ground under the workshop.
The heavy timbers used for flooring still failed to stop the Myford from rocking so removed wood floor from that area and built up a concrete block to stand lathe on - prob. solved! As for insects, seal shed as air-tightly as possible after lighting an anti - woodworm smoke canister. Its poisonous, obviously, but it kills anything flying/crawling/ burrowing. Flies, spiders, woodlice, woodworm, wasps, mosquitos, over-wintering snails, the lot!
Thread: injector design
31/03/2011 18:14:03
I remember a fellow club member, many years ago, demonstrated his experimental injector where the steam cone could be moved in and out as it was on a screw thread with a hexagon, to fit a spanner. It worked, at various positions according to the gauge pressure.
Thread: WARCO
31/03/2011 18:00:49
I have also bought various items from Warco which have proved to be satisfactory. I would recommend the company on its products and especially, Roger Warrens customer service attitude. Usual disclaimers - just a very happy customer.
Thread: Shed for a workshop - any advice?
21/03/2011 22:47:45
Hi John,
Further to above, plasic sheets cover drill/lathe/mill/workbench. Home - made 15W heater on mill swarf tray under the plastic cover and thats it! This heater is on 24/7/9-10months of year and this is in "sunny Brighton." A max. & min. thermometer and humidity dial hygrometer keep check on conditions.
I have but dont often use, a tubular heater and an oil - filled radiator.
Electric motors, especially that of the mill, soon warm things up and I`m happy and bear in mind I really dislike cold so it cant be that bad in shed!
Good luck,
John.
 
21/03/2011 22:38:44
Hi John,
My 10` x 8` commercially built wooden shed is on a concrete base painte witha black gooey anti-damp jollop, sanded to 2kill2 stickiness, followed by hardboard sheets then ex-kitchen carpet tiles. Apex roof covered in alternate layers felt and bubble wrap and inside, 50mm polystyrene sheets. walls outside cocooned in felt, inside lied with 3-ply and cavity filled with glass fibre loft insulation.
Thread: General club questions
10/03/2011 11:50:14
Hi David,
Cannot see in your lists, -
Sussex Miniature Locomotive Society @ Beechurst Park, Haywards Heath.
Mid Sussex Model Engineers.
Thread: Material for smoke boxes
01/03/2011 09:17:12
Hi Phil,
I admit that my rolled - sheet Sweet Pea smokebox looks round until, like you say you put the turned rings in each end. When I finally fix them, I will bung up the small gaps with Bosswhite or similar `gunge` and paint over with heat - resistant black paint sold for i.c. engine manifolds.
John
Thread: Steel Boiler Tubes
01/03/2011 09:09:56
Hi Nicholas,
My suggestion for using carbon dioxide was that chalk is free - its everywhere around Brighton and all you need is the cheapest bottle of vinegar that money can buy.It was one for the "tightwads" of this world!
John
Thread: Classified advert problems - how to overcome.
28/02/2011 22:47:51
Bingo! What "RJW" said @ 15.42 today about running out of memory. Every time someone posts a link to another site, I click on it then add it to my favourites in yahoo, with the intention of looking at that site later. I often keep these interesting things like Chris Heapys tips and so on, resulting in an enormous favourites file. I bet this is what is now causing my problem. I will try moving the lot to a folder. In the search bar right at top of page, if I type in say,`g`, I get a drop down box containing umpteen items previously viewed which can be removed by going in to tools and deleting but a number of items remain. These only disappear if the corresponding item is deleted from the favourites.
Will try to sort this out and report back as to whether it resolves the problem.
28/02/2011 13:31:40
I have got off the internet then bak in but still ads on this forum are over-written on each other.
28/02/2011 00:24:48
Hi David,
Not sure if this is correct place to contact you about my problem:
Click on "More For Sale Adverts" and up comes a list with blue lettering in Product column is over-printed on another line, also these lists extend to left, obscuring items in the date column and to the right, obscuring items in the Contact Name column.
Same prob. exists to a lesser extent in the "More Wanteds"
Can you please correct this? Many Thanks,
John.
Thread: Steel Boiler Tubes
27/02/2011 23:53:53
Re comment by `tractionengine42` about flooding interior of boiler with Argon gas. Wouldn`t this be difficult/expensive to source? How about these 2 cheap and easily obtained materials - chalk and vinegar. Could be mixed up in say a bucket and let it get on and fizz. Use a glowing strip of wood to slowly lower in to bucket and when it goes out, you know how full the bucket is with carbon dioxide. Much heavier than air so you can pour it like water into your boiler. Not tried this but think it should work OK - based on school chemistry lessons.
Thread: Material for smoke boxes
22/02/2011 16:01:33
Hi Michael,
Obtain a piece of steel sheet and roll it. Probably comes only in metric thickness - 2 or 3mm? No rollers? do you know a club member who will do it for you? Alternatively, pay a supplier to roll and braze it. Blackgates used to do this service but it is an expensive option.
John.
Thread: Solution to pianting problem?
22/02/2011 11:40:15
I know a model engineer who brushes his paint, using stuff thats been warmed up. This makes paint flow better without thinners and avoids brush marks.
Thread: Have broken a cast bit of my lathe - any hope of a repair?
14/02/2011 09:46:56
Hi John,
Dont feel too guilty about your hamfistedness as you call it. I think that, (1) This is Cast Iron over 1/2 a century old and getting very brittle, (2) poor clamp design has abused the metal, renowned for its inherent weakness. The other posters wfo have described the split cotter method have described what I think is probably "best practice" with this metal. Good luck in repairing. Could you post pics of finished result?
John.
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