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Member postings for Hugh Gilhespie

Here is a list of all the postings Hugh Gilhespie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hints and tips
16/10/2010 10:51:59
Not so much a hint or tip but a strategy that has helped me. I am a genuine beginner, I only started this malarkey nine months ago and I have – well let’s just say – quite some climbing to do up the learning curve. So, I started out with reading lots of books and making a ‘things to learn’ list – all very good and proper but it was all a bit – well, dull! The thing that really got me started was when I decided to actually make something.
 
I chose Oldboatguy’s beam engine, nice detailed and free plans on the Home Model Engine Machinist site and, as I thought at the time, nothing too daunting for a rank beginner. I was of course wrong, there is quite a lot of daunting when you actually get into it but - and this is the important but – because I had a goal I was much, much happier about trying out new (to me) techniques and if not mastering them, at least getting far enough to produce some sort of result. I did buy enough materials to make three of everything – good decision! I also scaled up the plans by a factor of two as I think larger is easier.
 
I have also become a great fan of the Bogstandard Training School for aspiring machinists – he has a genuine talent for not only explaining how to tackle things but also to inspire enough confidence for a beginner like me to actually have a go. I made his mill tramming tool some months ago and have had excellent use from it. Just completed  Bog’s milling vice stop, as I need it for a bit of beam engine milling. Another excellent design!

 So, enough rambling and apologies as I am surely teaching grannies to suck eggs but if you are just starting out – take on a project, it will really help you focus on learning. Choose a simple one with cheap materials if you can, fewer regrets when things go a bit pear shaped and you have to start again. You can even tell yourself that all your mistakes are actually really valuable lessons and it was a good idea to cock it up so badly the first time!

 

Enjoy, Hugh

 

Thread: Eagle Surface Grinder
09/10/2010 15:26:49
Bogs
 
I would also be very interested in the updated spraymister whenever you get a round tuit. No rush, I have yet to sort out the air system in my workshop, but I am planning on having air outlets at the lathe, mill and shaper specifically for spray mist cooling. I like having coolant and think it does make a difference, even with carbide tooling.
 
PS - I also made your tramming tool - it's so good that now I even look forward to having to re-tram the mill!
 
Thanks, Hugh
Thread: Newall DRO UK Suppliers?
25/09/2010 21:29:19
John - is your Allendale DRO a glass scale type? I see that they now do magnetic strip types and I guess these are more robust. I have fitted glass scales to my mill but there's a lot more real estate available than on the lathe and the scales are far enough away from the action to have a fair degree of protection. I'm a bit concerned about swarf and suds affecting the scales on the lathe.
 
 
Hugh
25/09/2010 11:26:42
Thanks chaps, I will give Newall a call next week and talk to them directly. Kwil, your topslide looks fabulous!
24/09/2010 22:37:58
Hi, I'm looking to fit a DRO to my Boxford and I like the look of the Newall Microsyn kit, nice and small and hopefully fairly easy to fit. I am looking for UK suppliers for Newall but so far my web searches haven't found any, plenty in the US but not here - strange as it's made in the UK. Any recommendations please?
 
Thanks, Hugh
Thread: Ignition coils for small engines
15/09/2010 20:54:10
Andrew,
 
I suspect that the answer is in the air temperature. I would guess that the breakdown voltage falls off with increasing temperature, so perhaps 2 to 8 kV is enough?
Thread: Raw Material Storage Methods?
12/09/2010 20:06:35
Hi Ant,
 
I used plastic bins from here
 
They are good for me as they slip under my work bench and don't waste any precious space.
Thread: Carbide Insert Quality
08/09/2010 21:15:01
I have been using some Glanze lathe tools with the small (6 mm ?) CCMT inserts from Chronos. They give a very nice finish on EN1A and I would like to make more use of them and buy in half a dozen inserts.
 
 Looking in various catalogues there are loads of different suppliers for these inserts and with very varying pricing too. I am interested if people think that there is much detectable difference in the quality of the inserts from different sources? I am only using them on a 5 inch lathe and normally not cutting more than about 20 thou maximum so should I stick with the cheapest or go for super duper unobtanium coated varieties?
 
All advice gratefully received.
 
Thanks, Hugh
Thread: ER32 etc collets
28/08/2010 17:39:42
Tapping it true sounds like a plan. I feel much more confident using a hammer than a lathe!
 
Just to be sure I understand what's needed, I assume that I need to do the following:
 
Cut back the register on the back plate so that it misses the recess on the chuck by say 25 thou all round. Then the chuck is free to slide around on the surface of the back plate.
 
Clean everything up, assemble with bolts just nipping.
 
Fit to lathe spindle and set up with DTI reading from the ER32  taper in the chuck.
 
Rotate and tap until minimum TIR then tighten bolts and recheck - repeat as required until minimum TIR with tight bolts.
 
Noe that I have a slight problem with doing this as I have to take the complete assembly off the lathe to tighten the bolts - being lazy, I used the existing M10 tapped holes on the chuck. To use these I had to use socket cap head bolts - not enough clearance for hex head bolts between the spindle nut and the bolt heads - and there isn't enough room to get an allan key in to tighten. Not a huge problem as I guess I can reduce the head size of three M10 hex head bolts to fit and then I can tighten with a spanner.
 
Sorry to make such a meal of this but it's all a bit new to me - well completely new to me to be honest.
 
Thanks, Hugh
28/08/2010 14:01:49
Some advice needed please. I have fitted an ER32 collet chuck to my Boxford VSL500. This lathe has a L00 taper spindle fitting and finding suitable backplates isn't easy. Anyway, I got a backplate from Rotagrip and a collet chuck from MSCJL. I machined the register as best I could but as my machining ability rating is AC*,  needless to say it's a tiny bit too small. Can't actually feel any movement when the chuck is on the backplate but the TIR in the collet socket is about 1.5 thou. The runout on the backplate register on it's own is about 0.2 thou and as the lathe spindle runout is the same I guess the register is nice and concentric, just that little bit too small!
 
So, do I have to live with this or is there anything I can do to improve matters? I have considered cutting the register right back and machining a sleeve but then I will need to make two super accurate cuts, not just one. Another stray thought, could I run some silver solder around the register and then re-machine to size? I like this idea but as I have never actually silver soldered anything and this would involve heating the whole back plate to dull red heat it's a bit daunting.
 
What else?
 
Regards
 
Hugh
 
* AC = Absolute Crap
Thread: Reaming Aluminium
22/07/2010 17:08:46
Hi, I'm having a problem reaming 4 mm holes in aluminium plate, 6061 grade I think.
I'm drilling to 3.8 mm at about 2500 rpm  then putting the 4 mm machine reamer through at about 1300 rpm with loads of WD40. The problem I get is chips stuck in the reamer flutes. I have to poke them out with a fine punch after each hole. I have tried using the reamer at slower and faster speeds but still the same problem. The holes seem to come out OK as I get a nice sliding fit with a 4mm dowel pin but having to clean the reamer each time doesn't seem right.
 
What am I doing wrong? Initial hole size? Speed? Whatever?
Thread: Bridgeprt on an inverter
21/07/2010 17:32:29
John - Inverter Scmimverter - As long as it loves its mother.......
 
Chris - With my Bridgie, a UK built Adcock and Shipley, all the existing controls are intact and there is a switch for the suds pump on the main panel - which also selects X or Y power feed and for an alternative head, assuming one had one. So no problem with the suds pump motor, just switch it on and off as needed. Not that I do, a quick squirt from a garden spray is my technology level. The sump for the suds pump is built into the base of the machine and is imposible to clear out so I just don't use it - also avoids working in two inches of oily water as I don't have drip tray.
20/07/2010 22:12:55
Hi Ian, I run my Bridgeport 2J Varispeed through a Transwave 2 kw static inverter - the sort that has a 415 volt 3-phase socket on it. These produce two good and one 'phantom' phase. This works a treat as you don't have to alter much  of the Bridgie wiring. The only change I had to make was to rewire the reversing switch so that the switching was on the 'good' phases, not on the phantom phase. Then I just plugged in using the 3-phase plug already fitted to the mill and off we went - although I did have to swap wires in the reversing switch again to get the correct rotation to match the original.
 
My machine has a suds pump although i have never used it. The pump spins when powered up so presumably it's OK. The other benefit for me was that the X and Y table power feeds worked without any fiddling.
 
If you want any more info, feel free to PM me.
 
Regards, Hugh
Thread: Brazing Pickle
08/04/2010 16:28:59
ChrisH, Ian and mgj,
 
Off topic slightly but you are right about the dangers of hydrofluoric acid. It is very toxic and above about 15% concentration it is absorbed through the skin - without much burning - and then it wreaks havoc with bones. The pure acid is actually a good solvent for proteins and as we are built of proteins, people and HF don't really mix well.
 
The basic antidote is soluble calcium in a form that can get to the acid - it then forms calcium fluoride which is inert - a lot of Derbyshire is built on calcium fluoride or fluorspar rock . When we used it industrially we all carried tubes of calcium gluconate gel for immediate application to splashes plus we always had medical personnel on site with calcium gluconate injections.
 
Just thought I'd cheer you all up while your waiting for your brazed bits to clean up in the acid.
 
 
08/04/2010 16:20:09
David,
 
Two outages - lots of fun!! Don't forget to ask your boiler cleaning contractor for a a kilo or two of citric acid, always comes in handy and they will have tons of the stuff - literally - so a small sample 'for checking' never hurts.
 
Regards
 
Hugh
07/04/2010 09:55:36

Thanks for the comments. I ought to point out that although I had many years experience in chemical cleaning of industrial plant, I have never silver soldered or made a brazed joint in my life – I have all that good fun stuff to look forward to – so I don’t have any real experience of removing fluxes and general cleaning up after hot work.

 

My points are pretty general. As you say, all we are trying to do is to remove a ‘scale’ and leave the base material unharmed. Unfortunately, all the common acids used for metal cleaning WILL attack the base metals, it’s just in their nature to do it! Slight qualifier here – copper, some grades of stainless steel and some fairly exotic high nickel content alloys such as R55 probably won’t be attacked but normal carbon steels, aluminium and zinc containing alloys will be chewed at by the acids. In fact even pure water will attack steel like an acid (i.e dissolve the metal and liberate hydrogen) if the temperature is high enough.

 

So, don’t underestimate that bit of lemon juice, it can, does and will happily dissolve steel. Just takes a long time to do it so the effects aren’t obvious. For what it’s worth the order of ‘aggressiveness’ on carbon steel is something like:

 

Hydrochloric, Sulphuric

Phosphoric acid

Citric acid

Hydrofluoric acid – NB Do not try this one at home!!

 

Then there are various descalers that work in alkaline conditions that are based on chelating agents such as EDTA. Very safe but need to be used very hot and are not easy to get hold of anyway. Caustic soda (Sodium hydroxide) is fairly good for general cleaning but nasty to handle.

 

In fact I agree very much with your points about keeping it simple. Stick with a weak solution of citric acid, use it cold if you want and just fish the bits out occasionally to see if they are clean. If you are in a hurry, warm the solution and if at all possible, stir it continuously, cleaning will be much, much faster.

06/04/2010 22:02:59
Hi Peter,
 
The 'standard' recipe for citric acid pickling is a 3% solution at 90 - 95 C. This used to be enshrined in a CEGB standard called General Operating Memorandum 95 (or 75, I forget which now, not done it for a good few years).
 
For large scale work, e.g. cleaning power station boilers to remove magnetite scale, it is normal practice to add a another chemical called an inhibitor to reduce the rate of attack on the tube metal to below about 3g loss per square metre per hour. The inhibitors are commercial products and are not easily available. However, for home use, they are not really required as the contact time will be much less than in boiler cleaning, 6 - 8 hours being typical for a large boiler.
 
For post soldering pickling, I would recommend using about 4% citric acid (40 g of acid in one litre of water) at about 40 - 60 C. It is very slow at lower temperatures and becomes increasingly aggressive as the temperature rises.
 
Phosphoric acid is also relatively safe - from the perspective of the metal rather than the person doing the pickling. Phosphoric acid will slightly passivate steel and this can be an advantage - or a disadvantage as the final surface will be a silvery grey and the colour change can be quite marked. Something around a 5% phosphoric acidsolution at room temperature would work and the piece being cleaned can be safely left in for long periods, overnight if required, as the phosphate film formed on the steel surface stops the acid from continuing to disolve the metal.
 
One point - this only applies to steels and iron based alloys. Copper based alloys MAY be OK but be very careful with brasses as the acids may selectively dissolve the zinc - dezincification - and hence basically destroy the metal. Aluminium is generally OK but always try a test piece first - strange things can and do happen.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Regards
 
Hugh
Thread: Digital editions of Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop.
06/04/2010 17:51:38
Hi All,
 
My problems accessing the digital issues were because my computer was set to the wrong date after a service visit from Dell to fix a different problem. When I reset the date to the correct value access was OK again.
 
Hope this helps!!
 
Regards
 
Hugh
 
PS - Feeling smug as have just done my first ever parting off - Glanze carbide tool from Chronos, front tool post, had to set the tool height to centre very precisely but then everything worked fine. 
11/03/2010 09:39:40
Hi David,
 
Problem solved!! And it was entirely my fault, nowt to do with the website - the date on my computer was set to may instead of March. Heaven knows why but putting it back to the correct date has solved my problems with access to the digital editions. Now, if I actually receive my copy of Issue 162 in the post rather than having to read it online I will be a contented bunny.
 
Regards, Hugh
09/03/2010 22:27:56
Hi David,
 
I am having problems accessing the MEW digital editions. I am a subscriber to the magazine and also to the MEW Digital Archive. Up until now I have had no problems with access to the digital editions but tonight when I tried, I got as far as the pictures of the front covers (for both the current and archived stuff) but whenever I tried to select a magazine to open I received the following:
 

A licensing error does not
permit you to View this Document

Contact your supplier for more information

So, as I guess you are my supplier, over to you!!
 
Regards,
 
Hugh
 
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