Member postings for Jan B

Dormer recommend reducing outside diameter by 1/10 of the pitch before threading .

I have always followed this recommendation and it works fine for me.

Jan

Merry Christmas to all of you and thanks for useful information during the year.

Jan

They are used for opening and closing of dampers.

Jan

3-D print and make a box the way you want it.

Jan

I always do the same but use a 20mm brass bar instead. I use this method for both inside and outside tools. In my opinion this is the quickest method.

Jan

Hello Ian J,

The same happened to me last weekend.

I also came to the conclusion that I have to remove the spindle to get access to the back gear. I am thinking of making a new 17 tooth gearwheel in steel instead of cast iron and fit this to the 53 tooth gearwheel. Does anyone know what pressure angle Myford used, is it 14.5 or 20 degrees? I guess it is DP and not Module. Can I use a module gear cutter? The evolvent profile must be the same, or am I wrong?

Jan

Hej Piotr,

Welcome, nice to hear from another Swedish model engineer. Unfortunately we are not so many, but hopefully it will change in the future.

Jan

Welcome Karl to this very friendly site. I am also from Sweden and live in Gothenburg. My main interests are live steam locomotives and toolmaking. I have a Myford Super 7 lathe and a Hogsboholm milling machine. Mechanical watches are fascinating objects. Have you seen Clicsprings videos on You tub?

Jan

I think your locomotive is PV Baker, design by LBSC. Drawings and castings are available.

Jan

I have a blowdown valve fitted to my TICH. It is located in the middle of backhead just above the foundation ring. This means that I have access to the valve under the cab floor. The valve spindle is a stainless steel Alan screw and using a long Alan key it is very easy to operate.

The foundation ring on TICH is horizontal so blowdown valve doesn’t have to be located on the throatplate.

Jan

Does Ayesha still have her original boiler, or has it been replaced with a new one?

Jan

Brazyle it´s a zero to much. Google 80078 and you will find it.

Jan

Welkome to the forum Tomasz.

If you google, John-Tom Engine and Model Plans, you can download building instructions copied from articles written by LBSC in Model Engineer. As always you have to check for faults in drawings. I had to make new buffer beams and crankpin was to long. Best is to redraw in Cad, and check that everything fits before starting machining. I have not bought any castings, machined cylinders, wheels and so on from solid material.

My track has curvradius of 3 meters and my TICH easily copes with that and I think my Juliet also will.

Jan

I just checked my mounting blocks, and there is a bolt head underneath, but I can`t see if it goes right true or if the studs are separate parts. Do as Hopper says, remove as much as you can, it`s still rather heavy.

Jan

Dormer recommend reducing diameter by 10% of the pitch. An M6 has a pitch of 1mm so turn down to 5.9mm before threading. If you measure a 6mm bolt it is around 5.9mm outside diameter. As Duncan says this will not affect the strength.

Jan B

Hi,

Not to day, but yesterday I ran my 3.5g TICH on my own private track. Unfortunately there are no clubs having 3.5 and 5 inch tracks here in Sweden. My track is only 100 feet long, sounds longer then 30m doesn’t it? Due to the high risk of fire, no rain here for many weeks, and temp 27 to 30 degrees, I had a water hose close to track. There are many big wood fires going on in Sweden, many out of control, so we all hope there will come some rain soon, situation is quite bad at the moment.

I wanted to test a new injector I made some weeks back. The old injector is nearly 40 years old and made to LBSC design. It always works but dribbles a lot, so I made a new one looking the same on outside, but more modern on inside. It worked dry but I think the distance between steam cone and mixing cone is too small, so water didn’t run thru properly and it was sometimes hard to get it to start feeding. I made ten laps linking up to almost midgear to avoid throwing sparks from chimney. Tich ran well as always, and it was great fun. Will make some modifications to injector later on.

Jan

Thank you all for useful information.

Jason, using Marineflex sounds like a good method. Problem is that I can´t find any supplier of that product here in Sweden. I have found some products that looks similar so I will try one and see if it works. I don´t mind a messy job as long as it works out ok.

By the way, the wheels are not cast, they are machined from solid round bars. I have access to a CNC-milling machine at work. This is a father and son prodject, so I did the machinig of the front wheels and my son made the rear wheels.

Ian, using a mold sounds like an interesting method, but i don´t think there is any company near me that can do this.

Gas_mantle, yes i have come across this video before and it is a pity that it dosen`t show the locomotive running.

What do you think about the gear ratio between engine and wheel axle, is a reduction of 1:10 to much?

Jan

Hi,

My son and I are building a steam wagon that will be driven by a Stuart Twin launch engine built by my son. This steam wagon will not be a true scale model. We are using drawings from a Clayton 2 inch version by Robin Tyler. Al dimensions are multiplied by a factor of 1.25. The purpose of this project is to make something that is relative simple and quick to make.

We have a question about best way to fit rubber to the wheels. The front wheels are made of aluminum 7075 and the rear wheels are aluminum 6082. We are planning to glue layers of rubber strips but we don’t know what kind of glue to use.

If you look in my album you can see some pictures of the project so far.

Jan

Hi David,

Very good and informative text and photos, exelent work.

Jan

Hi,

Trye NielsMachines.com he might give a good price.

Jan B