Member postings for David Haynes

Hi folks,

I am missing some ME pages and would be grateful if someone has scanned copies that they could email to me. It is from the 18 July 1975 ,Vol141, No3517. The article is about Albert Peryman's Brighton Baltic, I have p691, ending 'with very favourable comments; the acceleration...' and the next page I have is p694, begining 'touching the regulator...'

I may be able to buy the whole issue, but it is costly for just 2 pages.

So if anyone has p692 and p693 as a scanned copy, and they are indeed the missing pages, please can you help.

With many thanks

Dave

Thanks Jason,

I will look at grades of bronze suited to bearings. Does anyone have any thoughts about PTFE as an alternative for this replacement valve surface. I see no drawbacks in this material, bearing and heat properties seem fit for purpose and any slight compressibility is perhaps not a problem in this application.

Thanks

Dave

I am interested in buying a ready machined inside cylinder block for a loco I am hoping to build. It will be some time before I actually need it but the cost and time saving is potentially great I am not one to buy things 'just in case', but this is a project for which I have been already been producing construction drawings and thus I am already fairly committed. The overall width, between frames, of the cylinder block is correct but the length is 8.4mm short of my requirements. That discrepancy may be just due to the rear cover bosses. The inside depth from the rear of the block to front cylinder cover is right and the bores are correct (or within 1/64".

However, the ports (4mm x 12mm steam and 6mm x 12mm exhaust) are quite a bit different than what I want (2.4mm x 17.5mm steam and 9.5mm x 17.5mm exhaust). My concern is, as the design I am producing is based on a proven cylinder pair, is it worth trying to change the port dimensions on this ready made item. If this is the case, I wonder how successful people have been in blanking and re-boring ports; what is the best filler?

Many thanks, Dave

Hi,

I must first say that I am not currently making this and I know many will say to go and just go and buy one! In LBSCs account of the Mona injector, for the divided combing cone, he talks about using a 7/32" dia brass rod, drilling it with a No. 72 drill and then opening it out with a 3/4 in tapered reamer. My query is, firstly 3/4in is too large for a No72 (0.026"  hole and I don't see any small reamers advertised anywhere.

I would be grateful for your thoughts.

Thanks,

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 27/10/2012 08:50:44

Edited By David Haynes on 27/10/2012 08:51:19

Edited By David Haynes on 27/10/2012 08:51:41

What success have people had with machining these expoxy resins?

Dave

Thanks for these thoughts. I have case hardening compound but not enough old shoes or belts to make up the leather carbon source. I did wonder if I had enough steel plate I could spare but I realised it may be okay to use a tin can. We only recently had corned beef so the box tin might do the job.

But, is it work waiting for some leather scraps?

I will try the process on a drilled bar stock before I try it on the machined links.

Also, for lapping compound, I suppose a fine grade grinding paste would do?

Thanks again

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 17/10/2012 19:23:09

How does the inner bearing surface become adequately hardened without losing bore?

Dave

Hi Folks,

I want to case harden the eyes of a small link, 5/8" C/Cs with 0.096" dia holes. I understand that I heat to red/ pack hardening compound in and repeat a few times before quenching in water.

How will I know I have done enough treatment and will I need to re-drill to return to original hole size, but will this remove case hardening?

Thanks
Dave

Bob,

The set up looks very nice and the stands are a nice touch. For my X3 (imperial/R8) I paid for a Sieg stand but yours will be much cheaper and probably better, plus the added satisfaction of a job well done!

Have fun chipping!

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 22/09/2012 20:37:57

Many thanks for some good suggestions.

I've been using 1/2" craft paint brushes borrowed (!) from my children for some years, along with a dust pan and brush. I then package it into empty food cans that are crimped in the vice and sent out with the recycling collection. John S, I think Arc have sent you an industrial/scrap metal dealer grade in error.

Dave

Hi,

Has anyone any experience or comments about the Chester swarf removers here?

Thanks

Dave

Hi,

I have two gaps close to one another, one must be soldered and on must not, they are all part of the same part. If flux is used on the joint to be soldered, is there something to prevent solder taking, aside from oxide and lack of flux?

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 17/08/2012 10:05:49

Thanks Ian, that was the way I was thinking I would be going. I did think about using PTFE sheet, but when a piece 300mm x 300mm x 3mm (nearest I can get to 1/8" costs ~ £30, I don't think that is an option I will be using.

Dave.

Hi folks,

After a bit of thought, I have decided not to harden either the expansion link or the die block, but to re-make a die block from phosphor bronze, on the premise that this already has good bearing properties.

Just one question, does anyone know of suppliers of 1/8" sheets of PB? I don't want to have to cut down 1/2" sq bar.

Thanks

Dave

The link is about 1 3/4" long by ~1/2" wide

Hi Neil,

I am building a Tich and having discovered the later LBSC Belpaire variant, thought I would try it. I then had an awful time trying to buy 16 gauge copper tube 2 5/8" dia.x 4 1/2" long, I tried all the main suppliers but with no success and it was only from a small firm that I was successful. I don't know if your thinner tube would be okay.

That said, Tich is an odd loco with many for and against it. I find the building, though slow, has kept my interest. The end result leaves a few people disappointed but I think that the Belpaire option will add something different and help solve one of the big complaints about the poor firing.

Dave

Edited By David Haynes on 14/07/2012 08:38:07

Thanks Bob,

By installing AutoCAD 2011, I now am able to print to PDF with quality is as it should be. As you have said, that will enable taking the files to a local print shop for reasonably priced A1 sheet printing.

Dave

Thanks for the comment Adam. When I posted my initial question, I was using AutoCAD 2000 and there is no facility for printing to PDF. Installing CutePDF helped a little, but as stated above, the quality is poor. I have since had a failed new laptop and have had to replace it it with a 64-bit Win7 machine that will not run AutoCAD 2000. I have installed AutoCAD 2011 and the quality is as it should be. I still have a working older laptop with AutoCAD 2000 which, with conversion of drawings, is still used for drafting.

Dave

In a small boiler of the size 007 is discussing here, would 1mm dia silver solder be suitable for most locations? Also, what preference for flux?

Dave