Here is a list of all the postings david lockwood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Dore Westbury adjustments |
12/06/2011 20:34:46 |
Hello all I have a Dore Westbury milling machine which I am mostly happy with, the one little rankle is that the head can only be trammed in one plane and it is out in the fixed plane, the y movement. I have been doing some fly cutting and this causes the work to be out of parallell by .05 mm over 25 mm, this is not a problem on this particular job but possibly it could become one in the future
I am supposing that the mill would have to be disassembled and either shimmed or scraped to make any adjustments. The problem is the mill is glued and bolted then painted, so can the glue be dissolved in any way?
I could not say what type of glue has been used.
I expect it is not worth the trouble but if any one has any thoughts on the matter they would be appreciated.
Regards David |
Thread: milling vices |
12/06/2011 20:03:20 |
Hello every one, I have just been out in my workshop and have finally realised the cause of some of my problems when trying to mill square.
I wont bore you with the saga but I at last realised that the non moving jaw of my vice moves when it is tightened up enough to hold the job when milling. i put a dial indicator behind it and mesured 20 thou of movement whilst putting on more torque then was really necessary, just for the purpose of the test .
I must say this is a fabricated vice which came with the mill. I have seen some toolmakers vices sold by Arc Euro Trade and Ctc Tools which look the same as each other, the principal of these vices seems to be that the moving jaw is pulled downward and prevents jaw lift. Could the rear jaw still tilt back under the pressure?
if any one has had experience with these or if you can recommend a vice to fit on a dore westbury i would be very grateful
regards David |
Thread: Adjustable micro dials |
17/05/2011 20:28:20 |
Hi William that looks interesting I have been thinking of making something similar myself ,the numbers look very clear how are they manufactured and adhered? if you could send me some details that would be great
regards David |
Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill |
09/01/2011 00:39:29 |
Very nice video, I am quite impressed by how easy it was to part off presumably by the look of the piece of metal that you turned you have also done some knurling? Where did you get the laser pointing tool? was it expensive? It looked quite handy regards David
|
Thread: brrrr |
20/12/2010 18:02:20 |
Hi every one as this thread title suggests it’s a little nippy in my unheated workshop, I am used to working out side all day so the cold is not really a problem to me (and my several pairs of long johns) but I am afraid that the plain white metal bearings in my Myford ML7 will not be getting the lubrication that they need in this cold. I have meant to ask this question for a while but I keep forgetting when I am at my computer, I do not know which oil to use in the headstock I have heard that I should use mobile 1 but when I have asked for this at my local car spares they say I have to be more specific apparently there are lots of different types so I am just using a mobile 1 but possibly not the correct one. Is there any oil that will work below freezing point as it is in my workshop at the moment, thanks in advance for any information from anyone |
Thread: mock up materials |
24/06/2010 21:40:40 |
Thanks again for all the interest Alan what I am probably best looking for at this stage is what ever is cheapest. I can then make as many mistakes as it will take (probably a lot) and not worry about the price of remaking the part. Polystyrene may be good for some parts just to show the space they will take up if nothing else. The mock up I am working on at the moment is most like an ideas board that I will probably change several times before I am finished it will not need to be anything like as rigid as the real thing but I would like the moving parts to actually move and be as real as possible when it is finished.
Looking at the price of PVC compared to aluminium I would say it shows a considerable saving, on the web site shown by stick there is PVC and acetal are these the same as or close enough to polyacetal and RPVC as mentioned by Sam Stones? |
22/06/2010 22:55:44 |
Thanks every one for the help. The T nuts sound like a good idea and I have also looked at the plastics web site which looks promising, the PVC looks like the best bet, also as it happens there location is less than 15 minutes from my house. College engineering sell test foam and I will ask them as to its suitability thanks again David |
22/06/2010 17:13:43 |
Hi every one, I am starting to design a tool and cutter grinder for my workshop. I am making a mock up out of wood just to get my ideas straight. My question is, is there a material that I can machine / turn /thread etcetera, which would be cheaper than aluminium and preferably fast to machine? The wood I have is far too soft and comes off in chunks. I can get hold of some hard wood, yew and oak in small amounts but my expectation is that they will not take a thread. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Ps I know there are tool and cutter grinders in kit form already designed for me but I just fancy doing my own |
Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill |
21/05/2010 16:33:59 |
As I mentioned I would look for a cheap small lathe. I think the reason for making the attachment was for the pleasure of making it as it is for everything I make.
The fact that it is cnc I think is not important apart from threading you could do every thing manually
I would go the lathe root every time and consider turning in the mill as a little eccentric but if that is what someone wants to do as a hobby then its not a wast of time if they enjoy it
Respectfully David
Ps sorry for all those face things in my ealier post i don't know why they are there Edited By david lockwood on 21/05/2010 16:36:02 |
20/05/2010 20:46:01 |
On my mill I can loosen the column that holds the head and it is then easy to set a a piece of stock tuned to a close fitting diameter in a slot or pre drilled hole as in the second method for the purpose of setting the spindle accurately in the centre. This all being said I would look for a cheap small lathe. I expect you would use it more then you think Here is a link to a youtube video of a mill converted to a lathe but I think you would need a lathe to make it as you could only turn short work in the mill due to not having tail stock support and the spindle would be to long to make. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2-Kdud7eiA Good luck all the same no harm in trying whether it works or not. |
20/05/2010 20:43:51 |
Before trying any of this please keep in mind that I am not an expert in the matter these are just some ideas. I am quite happy to accept may be wrong Not long ago i had a job set up in the lathe that I did not want to disturb and found that the boring bar I had was not going to do the job so I made another on the mill. The only problem was that I would have to turn a taper on the front so I could cross drill the bar at the angle I wanted. It was a very simple job to put a large lathe tool in the mill vice set at an angle (as a form tool) and turn the short taper by advancing the work with the quill.
A longer taper would have to be set by setting the mill head over and taking trial and error cuts possibly with a test piece but you have to advance to tool by raising the knee of the mill if it has one. Or turn the head right over near ninety degrees. I have read about some one doing something similar to fix a morse taper in the mill spindle. It may have been in model engineers workshop? I have as it happens made some holders for holding round work in the mill vice with ER collets. These could be used as drill holders as in the Youtube video. I think that they could be set very easy 1 by holding a piece of nice straight stock on both ends one in the mill collet and one in the drill holder then lowering the quill until the holder is on the mill table then clamping in place
2 clamping the holder down first then holding the drill in a mill collet and aligning it until the drill will just drop in and out of the close fitting holder. On my mill I can loosen the column that holds the head and it is then easy to set a a piece of stock tuned to a close fitting diameter in a slot or pre drille |
Thread: drill sharpening |
12/05/2010 20:08:19 |
Thanks for the posts everyone. Terryd the links were very interesting |
11/05/2010 18:35:53 |
Hi there all i am in the process of making a drill grinding jig for my cutter grinder to grind drills by the 4 or 6 facet method as i was shown at the Harrogate show last year. the problem is i have no idea what the clearance angles should be. any advice? thanks in advance for any help
David |
Thread: square holes |
22/11/2009 22:40:45 |
Thank you every one for your posts (and attempts) I will try again. With regards to indexing of the corners and locking the headstock the only way I can see to do it is to make a headstock dividing attachment and divide around each corner and leave the tool in the same position rotationally (rotate the work and not the tool am I right?) with regard to calculating the amount of traverse to take the cut. If I have this worked out right the square can be seen as two right angled triangles and I would be cutting along the hypotenuse. The amount already removed by the drill will be the same as the length of one of the sides.
The traverse for each cut will be (hypotenuse minus diameter) divided by two as I am only cutting one corner at a time If that makes any sense Regards David |
22/11/2009 17:56:35 |
Hi everyone I have just been trying to make a square hole to take some high speed steel in a boring bar I am making. This is the first time I have tried and the results are not yet good. I have made a temporary lever feed for my top slide and mounted a tool made from an old centre drill which was the same width as the desired square hole ground with a flat down one side to the centre line with some clearance as the tool moves in and put some rake on the front to cut on its end with a pushing force from the top slide. The idea was to drill a hole the same width as the across flats width of the desired square hole. Then mount the tool with the flat vertical so it fits along the vertical centre line of the hole then reciprocate the tool and move it along with the cross slide until one side of the hole is square then turn it around and do the same for the other side. So far I have managed some holes, which are definitely not round but not really square either so before I go trying any harder do I need to go right back to the drawing board and if so how does one make a square hole? Regards David |
Thread: 4 Way Tool Holder ?? |
14/10/2009 20:39:20 |
Hi there I have recently bought a Dickson type quick change tool holder but I had a real game fitting it as my top slide had been modified and had a large bush round the stud on top and the four-way tool-post had been bored out to accept it. A new top slide was purchased and this was again in bad condition the stud had to be remade and the top face where the quick-change seats had to be remachined to give an adequate fit. All this done and when the happy moment when I finally got to use it arrived I found that I seem barely able to get a decent finish as the tool chatters terribly I put this down to the inherently larger overhang then on the four-way tool-post but I will experiment more before I give in with the quick-change any advise would be helpful
regards David |
Thread: Please hellp |
10/10/2009 23:41:28 |
Thanks very much. Now I just need to disassemble the thing |
06/10/2009 23:27:14 |
Hello chaps unfortunately I had a dig in whilst parting on my Myford ML7 and now when I try to take a cut deeper than 25 thou ish the pulley spins round but the gear it drives stays still. I can not see a way to fasten them back together without damaging the gear. Is there a way this can be fixed? Any help will be greatly appreciated
With thanks in advance (optimistically) David |
Thread: instrument oil? |
05/10/2009 19:38:09 |
Thanks very much chaps that’s very helpful
regards David |
04/10/2009 15:31:12 |
Is that the stuff for refilling a cigarette lighter or for starting barbeques? |
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