Member postings for david lockwood

Very nice video, I am quite impressed by how easy it was to part off  presumably by the look of the piece of metal that you turned you have also done some knurling?  Where did you get the laser pointing tool? was it expensive?  It looked quite handy

regards David

Hi every one as this thread title suggests it’s a little nippy in my unheated workshop, I am used to working out side all day so the cold is not really a problem to me (and my several pairs of long johns) but I am afraid that the plain white metal bearings in my Myford ML7 will not be getting the lubrication that they need in this cold. I have meant to ask this question for a while but I keep forgetting when I am at my computer, I do not know which oil to use in the headstock I have heard that I should use mobile 1 but when I have asked for this at my local car spares they say I have to be more specific apparently there are lots of different types so I am just using a mobile 1 but possibly not the correct one. Is there any oil that will work below freezing point as it is in my workshop at the moment, thanks in advance for any information from anyone    

Hi every one, I am starting to design a tool and cutter grinder for my workshop. I am making a mock up out of wood just to get my ideas straight. My question is, is there a material that I can machine / turn /thread etcetera, which would be cheaper than aluminium and preferably fast to machine? The wood I have is far too soft and comes off in chunks. I can get hold of some hard wood, yew and oak in small amounts but my expectation is that they will not take a thread. Any advice would be very much appreciated. >>

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Ps I know there are tool and cutter grinders in kit form already designed for me but I just fancy doing my own

Edited By david lockwood on 21/05/2010 16:36:02

On my mill I can loosen the column that holds the head and it is then easy to set a a piece of stock tuned to a close fitting diameter  in a slot or pre drilled hole as in the second method  for the purpose of setting the spindle accurately in the centre.  

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This all being said I would look for a cheap small lathe. I expect you would use it more then you think

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Here is a link to a youtube video of a mill converted to a lathe but I think you would need a lathe to make it as you could only turn short work in the mill due to not having tail stock support and the spindle would be to long  to  make.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2-Kdud7eiA

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 Good luck all the same no harm in trying whether it works or not.

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Before trying any of this please keep in mind that I am not an expert in the matter these are just some ideas. I am quite happy to accept may be wrong  

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Not long ago i had a job set up in the lathe that I did not want to disturb and found that the boring bar I had was not going to do the job so I made another on the mill. The only problem was that I would have to turn a taper on the front so I could cross drill the bar at the angle I wanted. It was a very simple job to put a large lathe tool in the mill vice set at an angle (as a form tool) and turn the short taper by advancing the work with the quill.

A longer taper would have to be set by setting the mill head over and taking trial and error cuts possibly with a test piece but you have to advance to tool by raising the knee of the mill if it has one. Or turn the head right over near ninety degrees. I have read about some one doing something similar to fix a morse taper in the mill spindle. It may have been in model engineers workshop? 

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I have as it happens made some holders for holding round work in the mill vice with ER collets. 

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These could be used as drill holders as in the Youtube video. I think that they could be set very easy 

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2        clamping the holder down first then holding the drill in a mill collet and aligning it until the drill will just drop in and out of the close fitting holder.

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On my mill I can loosen the column that holds the head and it is then easy to set a a piece of stock tuned to a close fitting diameter  in a slot or pre drille

Thank you every one for your posts (and attempts) I will try again. With regards to indexing of the corners and locking the headstock the only way I can see to do it is to make a headstock dividing attachment and divide around each corner and leave the tool in the same position rotationally (rotate the work and not the tool am I right?)

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with regard to calculating the amount of traverse to take the cut. If I have this worked out right the square can be seen as two right angled triangles and I would be cutting along  the hypotenuse.

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The amount already removed by the drill will be the same as the length of one of the sides.

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The traverse for each cut will be (hypotenuse minus diameter) divided by two as I am only cutting one corner at a time

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If that makes any sense

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Regards David

Hi everyone I have just been trying to make a square hole to take some high speed steel in a boring bar I am making. This is the first time I have tried and the results are not yet good.

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I have made a temporary lever feed for my top slide and mounted a tool made from an old centre drill which was the same width as the desired square hole ground with a flat down one side to the centre line with some clearance as the tool moves in and put some rake on the front to cut on its end with a pushing force from the top slide.

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 The idea was to drill a hole the same width as the across flats width of the desired square hole. Then mount the tool with the flat vertical so it fits along the vertical centre line of the hole then reciprocate the tool and move it along with the cross slide until one side of the hole is square then turn it around and do the same for the other side.

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So far I have managed some holes, which are definitely not round but not really square either so before I go trying any harder do I need to go right back to the drawing board and if so how does one make a square hole?

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Regards David