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Member postings for Martin W

Here is a list of all the postings Martin W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Cuter speed
03/04/2011 00:00:28
Paul
 
Have you looked at the site I referred to in my initial post on this thread. You can plumb in the cutter diameter, albeit in imperial, and then it will give you a suitable RPM to cut at for a given material. For different free machining carbon steels the site gives an RPM range from approx. 53 to 200 depending on steel type for the size of your cutter. As the milling table doesn't give a carbide speed it is assumed that the figures given are for HSS and this would agree with general guidance given by Hansrudolf. If you are getting problems with finish or you feel that its knocking too much then I would try taking a lighter cut.
 
Another point to bear in mind is how sharp is your milling cutter because that can affect finish and smoothness of the cutting action. A blunt cutter will definitely cause the machine rattle and produce a poor finish.
 
Hope this helps
 
Martin

Edited By Martin W on 03/04/2011 00:05:40

Edited By Martin W on 03/04/2011 00:07:07

Edited By Martin W on 03/04/2011 00:21:14

01/04/2011 23:57:57
Hi Michael
 
This is link Saw Speeds is an extract from Sherline and gives some information re cutting with a slitting saw. If you are cutting aluminium then the speed will be higher but you will probably need a lubricant to ensure the chips don't cold weld to the teeth of the saw. I use WD40 when cutting aluminium to stop clogging but I believe something like paraffin is often used.
 
Cheers
 
Martin
 
PS
 
Here is PDF File from Martindale and on page 13 gives details of saw speeds, feed rates and lubricants etc. This might be more useful overall.

Edited By Martin W on 02/04/2011 00:07:39

01/04/2011 18:42:25
Hi Paul
 
The site gives speeds for both HSS and Carbide tipped tools for turning but I guess the figures given for milling are for HSS tools as you suggest which is why these speeds seem a bit slow. They also may be wanting to get longer tip life before resharpening is required .
 
Thanks for the pointer to the Sandvik site but I had already got this book marked as I have TCMT tools for my lathe and the tips I bought on Ebay were Sandvik Coromant and I wanted to see what they should cut etc, needless to say this is not what I always use them for though as the 'devil drives when needs must' on occasions.
 
Cheers
 
 
Martin
01/04/2011 16:04:36
Paul
 
If you go to this site Cutting Speeds Calculator it gives the cutting speeds in feet/min and includes an 'On Page Calculator' for Turning, Milling, Drilling & Reaming for a variety of materials. All that you need to do is to convert from metric to inches for the bar, mill, drill or reamer that is being used, dividing by 25 is good enough for this but I am sure you knew that .
 
Hope it proves useful.
 
Regards
 
Martin
Thread: What's wrong with the tooling
30/03/2011 19:08:58
Eric
 
Have you tried posting on the forum at the Chester UK website and raised the question there? If not it is worth a go as they normally try to sort things out pretty fast. Usual disclaimer re interests.
 
Cheers
 
Martin
Thread: Greenwood Tools - Excellent Service
30/03/2011 18:23:03
Andrew
 
I have similar service from RDG, Chester UK and Warco. Its nice to know that there are still companies about who care and provide good/excellent customer service.
 
By the way is 'Kicking the proverbial cat' related to 'Welding the ear of a whippet back on' ?
 
All the best
 
Martin
Thread: Hip replacement - End of live steam?
10/03/2011 00:09:11
Hi Dave
 
Run it in for 12 months and you will forget its there save for the lack of discomfort!
 
Good luck
 
Martin
09/03/2011 11:26:01
Ian
 
I would agree with what you say but with one caveat and that is crossing legs etc is mainly a problem in the period immediately after the op until the muscles and scar tissue stabilise the joint. This stability will depend on the muscle tone prior to the op plus how hard/rigorously one is prepared to carry out the post op physio exercises.
 
I was lucky in that I had very good muscle tone prior to the op and a surgeon who encouraged aggressive physio yes it can be uncomfortable. His comment re the knee op was 'Don't worry you can't do it any damage exercising'. Taking that to heart I was walking on it within 3 days albeit with a walking stick.
 
With the hip I had the op in the morning and my consultant had me sitting in a chair that afternoon. The nurse's comment was 'If he pushes things much further he will have them walking back from theatre'
 
So the outcome will depend on what the muscles are like pre op and how much effort and discomfort you are prepared to accept during you own physio post op.
 
As i said in my previous post don't take no for an answer i.e. assume you won't be able to do things, but DO get professional advice re your personal situation. The benefits are many and the risks very small.
 
Cheers
 
Martin
 
 
PS My corrective maintenance is Left knee full replacement, Right knee half replacement, Hip full replacement. Still it should provide work/entertainment for the ash pan rakers at the local crem when time I am time expired .
 

Edited By Martin W on 09/03/2011 11:45:10

09/03/2011 02:01:21
Dennis
 
Don't EVER take NO for an answer!! I have had both knees replaced and a hip and I am 67 and trying to fire on all cylinders. I still can achieve most of what I did before and with respect to the hip most of your mobility will be retained. Of the two operations this is the one that best reflects the movements of the original joint - a ball and socket. Yes there is a recovery period but if you do the physio and a bit you will never know the difference. I am thankful that I had these operations as it has increased my mobility and killed the pain I had before. So go on get the op done then get back behind your Hunslett and give it welly!!!!!!!.
 
Once the muscle has recovered then there is little chance of dislocation as the muscle and joint design holds it in place. I love the fact that I am now part bionic, well almost, and the joint will serve me until lights out after which I don't give a stuff. I am quite happy to get on the floor with my proxy grandchildren and run about as best I can.
 
If you want to hear how I fared then give me a PM under the 'message a member' banner. All I wish is that my attempts at mechanical engineering are half as good as the bits fitted by my surgeon.
 
Good luck and I hope it all goes well.
 
Martin
 
PS
 
I wish I had built a Hunslett that I could drive 'cause I would have it at full chat round the corners, sorry I know that infringes the Elf & Safety brigade regulations but stuff that at my time of life as I have made so far with nothing damaged significantly
 
PPS
 
I moved my lathe and installed a mill in my workshop post my ops with no problem or mechanical lifts to help albeit the lathe is a DB7V and the mill, which is a WM14 new style, both weigh in at over 50kg.

 
Edited By Martin W on 09/03/2011 02:05:38

Edited By Martin W on 09/03/2011 02:11:30

Thread: MT2 collet slipping
07/02/2011 23:43:30
Hi
 
I have used an ER 25 chuck and collets to hold mills up to 12 mm with no problem. However as mjg says the grip on ER collets is different from a standard MT collet and what's more its more forgiving regarding variations in shank sizes, i.e. it is designed to grip a range of sizes from each collets max to a slightly smaller diameter.
 
That said I would have thought with gentle cuts even using an MT style collet would grip a shank that is to size for that collet though with precious little latitude for variation on size. If the cutter is not secure then I wonder if the shank size of the cutter is accurate, whether the bore of the collet is true to size and parallel or if the collet truly matches the bore of the lathe spindle or if the spindle bore has been bruised which could interfere with the collet closing uniformly. I assume that the collet and spindle bore have been cleaned thoroughly.
 
A few random thoughts after a glass or two of vino tinto.
 
Hope you get it sorted on way or another.
 
Regards
 
Martin
 
 

Edited By Martin W on 07/02/2011 23:44:16

07/02/2011 10:54:23
Hi
 
This might be a silly question but is the collet the right size for the end mill. MT collets, if I am correct, are only intended to grip to size i.e. 3/8 collet to 3/8 milling cutter, if the size isn't correct then they will not grip uniformly over the clamping area. ER collets,on the other hand, will grip down over a limited range of about 1mm or 40 thou from their max size and so can accommodate various size cutters while maintaining a good grip.
 
Just a thought.
 
Regards
 
Martin
Thread: Case Hardening
03/02/2011 12:14:41
Ian
 
That confirms what the data sheet says, in the link above, that there is effectively no hazard with this stuff. Just a recommendation to use in a well ventilated workshop. Extreme use might give a sore throat or runny eyes but that's about all.
 
Cheers
 
Martin
Thread: Tip build-up
01/02/2011 01:19:19
Terryd
 
I don't know whether modern toothpastes will give the desired results as I expect they are very different from the older versions which contained 'diatomaceous earth' which is basically a very fine silica based powder, shells of microscopic diatoms. Modern stuff probably has something else in it that is less abrasive!
 
Just a thought mind you it may give a finer polish!
 
Cheers
 
Martin
Thread: Different Steels
01/02/2011 00:47:14
Hi mjg
 
Been missed great to have you back again .
 
Best regards
 
Martin
 
PS  Sorry about the smiley !!

Edited By Martin W on 01/02/2011 00:56:16

Thread: Oil change in a Chester MF42B
29/01/2011 13:01:20
Hi
 
Try looking at this site it is similar to the model B and has freely available manuals. I know for some of the equipment the part numbers are exactly the same as Chester's. It may help, the other alternative is to syphon the oil out and use a good gear oil as a replacement.
 
Cheers
 
Martin
Thread: Different Steels
29/01/2011 11:45:48
Ian
 
Yep timber is the same here as well, comes sawn to roughly indicated size but if planed then its under size. Though some outlets will now give actual size after dressing but this is usually smaller than the equivalent sawn. I suspect its because the DIY market is full of numpties who read the label and don't measure .
 
Cheers
 
Martin
29/01/2011 11:39:17
Hi
 
With regard to the plethora of steel type specifications I would rather have that than what preceded it prior to circa 1938. Then steels made by different manufacturers, as I understand it, were unique to that particular company. In order to get some consistency in the market the government of the day decided to try and standardise the production of steels and introduced the EN or Emergency Numbering of steel types. Since then steel production has been refined and the number of different steels being produced has increased and the basic EN system itself needed refining hence the BS standards.
 
Now we are part of Europe, and all that goes with that, this has come under the control of the European standards with its classification system. The unfortunate part of this is that now we are back classifying steels with a code that starts EN , roughly translated as European Norm.
 
Simples NO , but better than pre 1938 YES .
 
I expect the historians and purists to make corrections to the above and welcome having the true facts presented rather than my rough account.
 
Cheers
 
Martin
Thread: Oil change in a Chester MF42B
29/01/2011 11:17:50
Hi
 
Sounds like the old Model A series multipurpose machine sold by Chester UK. Have you tried posting on the Chester UK forum? Even though you bought the machine second hand they are always willing to help and even if Chester can't help directly then there will probably be others that can.
 
Cheers
 
Martin
Thread: Newbie
28/01/2011 12:20:45
Patrick
 
Looks like our posts crossed and I duplicated the idea of local engineers .
 
Cheers
 
Martin
28/01/2011 11:26:44
Ady
 
The only problem in going into the local scrappy is that you have no idea of the type of metal you are getting. Not so bad for the softer materials but pick up a bit of hard steel and your experience may be less than enjoyable. My advice would go onto ebay or similar and find a supplier who supplies metals in relatively small quantities that have a known standard.
 
If starting out with steel then I would suggest using EN1A (BS 970 230M07)or similar and then graduating up the chain to the more esoteric steels. Not only will you learn how different tools affect the finish but also what sort of finish you can reasonably expect to get using different materials.
 
Another option may be to look in Yellow pages or similar and see if there is a small engineering works nearby and approach them for offcuts. You could always offer to pay scrap price for what you take or chuck a few quid in the tea/Christmas kitty helps to oil the wheels.
 
 
Just a thought.
 
Cheers
 
 
 
Martin
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