Here is a list of all the postings Mark P. has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Emergency stop switch |
24/04/2011 16:25:51 |
Thanks for the info,will be very useful.
Pailo |
22/04/2011 20:14:22 |
Hello all can anyone give me an answer to this question.Is there a legal requirement to have an emergency stop switch fitted to a sawbench in an industrial setting?
Regards Pailo. |
Thread: No turning for me this weekend |
16/04/2011 09:24:17 |
Hi Jason,had a similar problem with my Warco WM250 lathe.The motor hunted a couple of times then stopped,on further investigation one of the brushes was worn down to almost nothing where as the other was as new.Warco sent me two sets of brushes by return. By the way the lathe was 2 years old.
Pailo. |
Thread: milling machine power feed |
26/03/2011 08:42:56 |
I used an old wiper motor as well with a 2:1 reduction drive on my Warco WM16 mill.For the speed control I found a vairiable speed controller from Maplin electronics,powered from a battery charger.I found that a 2200 uf capacitor across the output of the charger gave me a smoother current for the controller,this has worked well for the last 3 years.
Regards Pailo. |
Thread: Wall repair |
13/03/2011 21:16:48 |
Hi Jason,I am going to attempt the drill and rebar and capping off with concrete method,I am fairly sure that the lower portion of wall will stand drilling. The only problem is holding the shuttering on the neighbours side,will have to work on that one for a bit,maybe I can use some deep clamps or threaded bar with some big washers to hold both sides together.
Pailo. |
13/03/2011 20:23:45 |
Hi Steve,a total rebuild of the wall is not really practical as there is restricted access down on the open side,due to the neighbours shed which is only a foot or so away.The lower portion of wall is solid,it's only the top couple of courses,and mainly the top course which are loose.The wall it's self is slightly concaved towards my garden so falling over is not a problem. I believe that the wall is thicker towards the bottom than it is at the top but I can't say for sure as it is below the level of my garden.
Pailo. |
13/03/2011 18:42:46 |
Hi Colin, I don't think that the wall will fall over,it stops my garden sliding into my neighbours garden,if it did fall down it would slide into his shed,the wall is a bit like a Ha Ha.Most of the damage has been caused by ivy roots,the use of lime mortar below ground level.I just need to stabilise the top row of bricks.
Regards Pailo. |
13/03/2011 17:41:01 |
Hello all, can anyone shed any light on my problem? At the end of my garden I have a retaining wall (see sketch) which on my side is below ground apart from 1 row of bricks on the top above ground.On the other side my neighbours there is a 4'6 inch drop,the wall is about 200 years old and getting rather rickerty! The top row of bricks are very loose and flakey. I need to effect a repair to the wall with the minimum of fuss and disruption to myself and my neighbour,I was thinking of drilling down into the wall and inserting rebar and concreting over the top with a bit of shuttering. Can anyone think of a better idea. Thanks Pailo |
Thread: Engineers Level |
23/02/2011 20:01:30 |
Thanks for the replys,ran the mill over it today and a swift lapping session, recalibrated it. Seems good came on bubble easily,maybe not as good as new but now very usable.
Thanks again Pailo. |
22/02/2011 16:44:43 |
Hello all,I have just aquired an old 5" M&W level the base of which has lumps and bumps,and a very slight twist.Does the team think that I will be able to clean it up on the mill using a face cutter to get an acceptable finish? I realise that it would be better to have it surface ground,but if I get it flat fore and aft I can recalibrate it.
Pailo. |
Thread: Swarf |
15/02/2011 16:24:13 |
I put my swarf in the council recycling bin,and they take it away.
Pailo, |
Thread: Sheared Drawbar |
10/02/2011 20:17:48 |
I've had a lot of sucess drilling hard steel using a masonary bit TC. doncha know.
Regards Pailo. |
Thread: Insulating sectional concrete garage to use as workshop |
02/02/2011 22:33:28 |
My workshop is a 12' x 9' steel shed,a few years ago I insulated it by bolting 50mmx50mm battons on the walls, I then put 25mm polystyrene sheet between the battons, I left a 25mm air gap then boarded it over with 12mm OSB. The concrete floor was battoned out with 50mmx25 treated timber,more 25mm polystyerne sheet followed by water resistant chipboard flooring.The roof was covered inside, with more polystyrene sheet,air gap and then hardboard sheets.Result cosy cottage,and fitting shelvs is a lot easier. Cool in summer and warm in winter,and no condensention problems.I also fitted a extractor fan at one end and a closeable vent at the bottom the door at the other to help air flow through the workshop. Hope that this is of help.
Regards Pailo. |
Thread: Boring deep holes |
31/01/2011 20:35:09 |
Hi Terry would be good if you could copy the G H Thomas article please.
Regards Pailo. |
31/01/2011 09:17:10 |
Thanks for the replies,I think that I will go for the D bit idea as I have some 20mm Silwer steel (though I can't for the life of me where it came from!)
Regards Pailo. |
30/01/2011 13:53:30 |
Hello all,I am embarking on a project which entails boring 2 parallel holes in an aluminium block.Both are 150mm deep,one is 20mm dia and the other is 12.5 mm dia. The 20mm one has a closed end while the 12.5mm one is open ended,I'm planning to ream this one,it's the 20mm one which is the problem.Would I be best off making a substantial boring bar or drilling and buying a 20mm reamer to hold in the lathe chuck?
Any tips/ideas gratefully recieved. Pailo. |
Thread: Warco V Chester |
23/01/2011 20:10:56 |
I bought a Warco WM16 mill a few years ago,after a couple of months the motor "packed in" with a pop! I e-mailed Warco some photos of the motors damaged internals, a day or two later a new motor arrived with their appologies for the inconvienence caused.They also asked if I was able to fit the new motor or were they to send an engineer to fit it FOC. Have only praise for them in any dealings I have had with them.
Regards Pailo. |
08/01/2011 22:40:40 |
I've got a Warco WM16 mill had it for about 2 years with no problems,found it to be user friendly and a good price. |
Thread: Metal storage |
31/12/2010 12:43:12 |
Thanks for the replys and ideas,think that I will go with Harold's idea of using guttering for bar stock.Still working on plate/billet storage systems,most of it is 25mm x 600mm x 200mm.
Regards to all Pailo. |
29/12/2010 17:11:51 |
Hi all,I am re-arranging my workshop and need some ideas for storing metal bar stock.Most of what I use is stainless and aluminium rounds and mostly 600mm - 1 metres in length. Storing upright in short tubes has been tried but found not to be succesful due to short ends "hiding" at the bottom! Also some means of storing bits of plate would be good,I have tried stacking them but the piece needed is always at the bottom of the stack. What do other people use? My workshop is 12 feet by 9 feet and most of the wall space is in use,all ideas welcome.
Pailo. |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.