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Member postings for Anthony Knights

Here is a list of all the postings Anthony Knights has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: unable to add new postings
15/08/2010 00:52:53
for some reason I am unable to scroll to the end of the "How to drill a square hole" thread to reach the add new posting box. Any suggestions?
Thread: repeated postings
12/08/2010 10:34:44
Hi guys
              just checked my E mail and found the new postings which for some reason had been shunted into the junk folder. Probably need to adjust the junk mail settings.
Regarding my original post and the responses I got, I have repaired and tested the original speed control PCB and it is now available as a replacement  for my lathe, should the need arise.
Thank you to everyone who helped. 
12/08/2010 08:43:23
On the 6th of April this year I posted a request for information on the CL300 lathe. I received the information I required and am very grateful to all who responded. The original posting has now misteriously re-appeared dated 11/8/2010. This has also happened with other threads. WHY?
Thread: Alignment of lead screw on CL300
17/06/2010 08:07:34
Hi Gordon
                   the 8 thou difference was over the whole length of the bearing block (4cm and a bit). The actual base is only 2cm wide. I only took a very fine skim to level the base. It turns out I should really have taken a bit more off to allow for adjustment by shims. After all the messing about I couldn't be bothered to set the block up for machining again. It was close enough for me and seems to work fine now. 
16/06/2010 01:15:56
Sid, I did mention in my original posting that since I first got the lathe, engaging the lead screw seemed to load the motor but thought it was normal so it possibly never has functioned correctly. It was only when I came to refit the leadscrew that I found the cause of the problem.
Gordon, I treated the leadscrew as if it was made of glass and certainly didn't drop it. A "pool cue " test didn't show any distortion visible to the naked eye. I always start the lathe from zero rpm using the speed control knob. I suspect the interlock relays in the control circuit would prevent you starting at full speed anyway. 
 
Now the good news. Left hand bearing was found to have the bore and base not parallel.


Clamped it onto the milling machine table and using a 13mm drill shank as a test bar
clocked both ends. Checked again with the drill shank inserted from the other side.
Turn the bearing through 180 degrees and repeat. All tests gave a discrepancy of 8 thou.
Shimmed up the low edge until the bore was level and then skimmed the mounting lugs. Used these to mount the block upside down and machined the base. Check again and bore now parallel to base. Fitted bearing and then clocked the leadscrew from the saddle (apron removed ). Found to be higher and further away from the saddle at the
headstock. Removed the paint under the left hand bearing mounting position and opened up the screw holes in the bearing block. This improved the horizontal and vertical alignment, which although not perfect, I considered close enough.
Fitted the apron and set every thing up using Sids method (thanks Sid)
I suppose if I had used the lathe as it was it would have been a bit like running in a car and everything would have eventually freed up through wear.
 
 
10/06/2010 20:41:20
Hi Sid,
            it's me again (Anthony). We appear to be working at cross purposes here. I appreciate you explaining how to align the lead screw with the half nuts, but my problem is somewhat different. There is some inaccuracy with either the bearing blocks themselves, or the places they are mounted. This means that when they are bolted down the normally straight lead screw is being bent into a banana shape. No amount of adjusting is going to correct this without shimming the blocks so that their axies are in line.
This weekend I intend stripping the whole lot down again and checking the bearing blocks for accuracy. I will also make a shoe for the DTI lever so it surfs the top of the leadscrew threads and clock the whole length of it from the saddle. I will report back later.
Regards  Anthony
 
08/06/2010 00:18:25
Hi Sid,
            as you have to open the half nuts in order to install the lead screw, the answer to your question is NO. The correct method (if you believe what I have read) is to fit the lead screw, slacken the screws holding the apron,THEN engage the half nuts (which is supposed to pull everything into alignment), then tighten the apron screws.
05/06/2010 00:31:16
I recently removed the lead screw on my CL300 lathe to drill the tailstock end to fit an extension shaft (a la Dave Fenner) When refitting, I found that as I tightened the screws on the bearing at the headstock end, the leadscrew became progressivly stiffer, until, withe block fully fitted, I could not turn the leadscrew with my fingers. Could this be the reason for the change in motor noise when the leadscrew was engaged ? This had been something I had noticed since I first got the machine, but just assumed that it was normal.
Decided that the problem was due to some sort of mis-alingment of the leadscrew bearings. Having contemplated the problem with a can of lager,
I then cut some shims from said can (probably the best shims in the world) and tried fitting them.Two shims seemed to do the trick.
I do have Mr. Fenners excellent book on the Mini Lathe and have explored numerous websites dedicated to these machines. I have not found the above problem mentioned any where and would appreciate any constructive comments from anyone, as to the problem or my solution.
Thread: Harrogate show
18/05/2010 20:44:28
Hi Keith (and anyone else who might have an interest)
The shop I found is located at number 384 York Road. This is on your left as you travel towards the city centre, just before you get to the White Horse pub, before the Lupton Avenue flyover. It used to be called "Intro Industrial Supplies" although I believe it has changed hands. I have had a selection of different metric screws, bolts, nuts etc. from there, as well as various drill bits and a 3 to 2 MT sleeve. Dont know if he has any old stuff (imperial or BA) but he might have some old stock, you never know your luck.
 
regards Tony
Thread: speed control pcb for Clarke CL300 lathe
15/05/2010 09:57:19
Hi John
               have already found D1 to be short circuit. Somewhat ironic that when functioning it is there to protect the mosfets. I now need to search my "bits box" to find a suitable replacement. I still have a new pair of mosfets, so I live in hope
Thanks for the tip about using a dummy load.
 
 Regards  Tony
09/05/2010 16:52:22
Hi John,
               got my kit back from Macine Mart after (expensive ) repair and my CL300 is now running . I said "repair" but all they have done is replace the control PCB. I insisted they return the original faulty PCB, which they have done.(It is my property after all)
Thanks to you providing a circuit diagram, I am now in with a chance of repairing it so I have a spare available in case of another failure.
Thank you
best regards
Anthony (better known as TONY) Knights
Thread: Harrogate show
09/05/2010 16:38:02
Yesterday I made my first visit to the Harrogate show. Apart from the hike from the main road I was suitably impressed, especially with some of the superb engineering on the club stands. I have been retired for just over a year and have only just started the model engineering game, although I was trained in all the basics at A.E.I. in Rugby, on leaving school.
I was somewhat astounded, if not dismayed at the prices on some of the trade stand for miniscule packs of nuts and bolts. I realise these are oddball sizes and "they don't make them in the quantities they used to", but even so I find the prices horrendous. I have sets of metric taps & dies from12mm down to 1mm and these are all I am likely to need , although I do have a few B.A.  UNC, and imperial size taps from long ago.
I recently got ripped off by a national DIY chain, where I paid £3.80 for 10 (yes  ten) M5X12mm csk machine screws + nuts which I needed urgently. Enough! I have since found a small independant supplier in Leeds who sold me the same items for £1. Need I say who gets my future business.
 
  
Thread: Clarke CL300 Speed control
25/04/2010 00:01:11
probably
12/04/2010 01:16:52
One suggestion I have come across is to remove the electronics completely and use a 500VA variac transformer and a suitably rated bridge rectifier to drive the motor.
Thread: speed control pcb for Clarke CL300 lathe
08/04/2010 21:09:11
Thanks for that John. I tried tracing the circuit but you have got further than me. There is a site with various links which you may find useful if you havent tried it already.
 
Regards Anthony.
06/04/2010 19:59:55
Thanks Pat. I've already found this information on the internet. The site recomended replacing MOSFETS with type STW20NK50Z, which I did. They blew as soon as the power was applied. The complete control box & motor are currently at Machine Marts service dept. Further research would indicate that the pinouts of the above MOSFETS are different from the original, hence the need for a diagram.
06/04/2010 03:01:34
Does anyone know a site where I can download a circuit diagram of the motor control PCB used on the Clarke CL300 lathe ?
Thread: ME thread cutting
06/04/2010 01:28:37
I think you get what you pay for. I have 2 metric tap and die sets. One cost about £15 and the other £40. The dies in the cheaper set are extremely difficult to use and I have yet to successfuly cut a thread above 6mm diameter. The more expensive ones work well (and so they should). I have had a similar experience with a cheap twist drill set, which was so bad, I took it back and got a refund.
<< First < Prev 29 30 31 32 33 34
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