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Member postings for Rob Manley

Here is a list of all the postings Rob Manley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: bonded crankshaft
15/01/2010 18:18:48
Ideally, loctite should always be used in conjunction with a mechanical lock, like a good fitting pin.  The shock loading received by an I/C crankshaft makes this type of fixing probably the worst type.  Loctite requires an extremely small amount of clearence between the two components like an medium slide fit and degrease like mad.  If you were going to loctite it, pin it also making sure the pin is a tap fit. 
Rob  
 
Thread: Suds vs neat cutting oil
03/01/2010 22:40:05
Just my 2p, I've used Garia C neat cutting oil from shell.  It doesn't go off, dosen't smell, doesn't stain the machinery and doesn't make everything go rusty if you have not got the mix quite right.  The only trouble is, it does tend to smoke on hard working jobs so it always good to have some of the soluble stuff ready to mix when needed.  Oh and a brush is all i need to dab it on, apart from the mess and vertical on the lathe and horizontal marks from the mill on the walls and my shirt is also saves alot of wasted oil - of course doing my bit for the environment
Thread: Canterbury Lamb
05/12/2009 10:49:44
Thats brilliant fellas, thanks alot :D
04/12/2009 20:21:22
Hey all, I have just purchased a centerbury lamb in serious need of renovation/completion as a christmas holiday project and would like to know which issue numbers it was described in as i have access to a complete back catalogue. 
Something isn't quite right as the crosshead fowls the leading wheel when in mid position spring wise which im sure isn't meant to happen! 
 If anyone has a few pictures they could post up that would be great too.
And Oh! isn't it small.  
 
 Cheers all
 

Thread: Gear wheels
04/12/2009 12:51:03
They can supply most things - Ive used them in the past or stuff I cant make myself.

http://www.hpcgears.com/
 
 Rob. 
Thread: Leaky Safety Valves.
20/11/2009 10:04:16
Ideally the seating should be bored, both the bore and the seating face as reaming never produces a good enough round hole for sealing purposes.  As you say a light 'tap' just to seat the ball is quite common but the tap should only be very light. 
Thread: Silver Soldering
18/11/2009 11:26:07
Yup, dunk in acid and if that doesnt remove any of the scale use a soapy brillo pad - it makes everything very slippery but it cleans up a treat.  Also, if doing such delicate work silver solder wire is great stuff and it then means you can cover the entire job in flux to keep off the crud and not flood the job with solder. 
When i mix up the flux paste i put a drop (1) of hand soap into the mix, this makes the flux stick to the job and not run off when it gets warmed.  
 
R.
Thread: Drilling problem - the sequel.
23/10/2009 17:19:55
Thats a fair point - im using a ML7 as a daily driver and i have the belts on the loose side so that if anything happens there isnt a hugh crash - so far i havnt needed that... Also i was thinking about much larger holes - if a myford cant drill an 1/8" hole in bronze you have a serious problem. 
On a slightly different note- has anyone tried placing a piece of cloth between the job and countersink then re-cutting to clean up a chattered countersink?  A friend of mine here was talking about it and as im no where near my workshop (100+miles) i cant test the practice...
23/10/2009 12:31:35
Surely blunting tools is a step backwards and not solving the problem (especially expensive new ones and blunting your old set will just produce tapered bores again).  The problem being that the machine isn't really good enough for the operation (none are really) - im not suggesting locking the quill tight but preventing the drill bit from snatching can be done with the very least amount of resistance on the quill.  When in industry it always made me laugh to see apprentices tickling the end of the job with the drill bit then see their faces when i took over and would wind the drill bit in at a more suitable speed BUT the machine must be strong enough to take it - normal myfords and drill presses wont take it. 
Thread: oil
22/10/2009 20:15:37
I wouldn't try and reverse the spindle as the chucks are screwed on and any sharp take up if you did manage to reverse the motor would unscrew the chuck.  If you wanted to reverse the spindle for various slow speed operations (cant quite think of any at the moment) you can make a handle to fit in the end of the spindle to rotate it by hand - also very handy for screwcutting! 
Thread: Drilling problem - the sequel.
22/10/2009 19:12:03
Thats what happens with brass and nice sharp tools that are cork-screw shaped sadly.  I tend to lower the drilling speed as much as possible and lightly clamp the quill to prevent this, making sure that the job is firmly held in a fixed drill press vice (ok not all the time).   I have my drill press (a 60+ years old and reasonably tyred machine) on the slowest speed it can go - being a modern machine i suspect yours will go way too fast for me anyway - I hardly change from bottom speed unless im drilling 1/8 or under and dont seem to have too many problems.   Oh, this is also very useful when opening up holes in brass because it will most certainly snatch!

Edited By Rob Manley on 22/10/2009 19:24:21

Thread: What am I doing wrong???
18/10/2009 22:36:43
Oh and make sure you aren't using a die nut (hexagonal in shape and non adjustable) Oh and a quick warning about adjusting dies they should only require minimal adjustment from stock - close them up too tight  and they will break into two halvs. 
Thread: 4 Way Tool Holder ??
14/10/2009 21:33:03
How much of the toolpost is in contact with the topslide?  I made a 3/32" thick steel washer to go under mine - and have got it as large as i can to give maximum rigidity.  It also prevents swarf - especially the brass chips that get everywhere - from getting underneath it.  Also, make sure that the toolpost is NOT a tight fit on the central clamping bolt because it may not be accuratly upright and any force trying to straighten it isnt doing its job of clamping it down firmly.  Also, (nearly there) put a square along the top of the topslide because i have seen quite a few bowed under the pressure from the clamping bolt and that will cause the tool post to vibrate like mad and the only way to solve that is to machine it flat again and not do it up so tight.  
 
  Rob.   :D
Thread: tooling
14/10/2009 21:22:07
To be honest - using 12mm or 1/2" tool steel is a waste of money.  1/4" or 3/8" tool steel is  about the largest i would go because - its cheaper, there is less to grind away and there is no way in hell you will overstretch the rigidity of the tool under even extreme machining on a ML10.  If you are using tipped or indexable tools then, to allow for height adjustment through packing, go no larger than 12mm.  Can you actually get 14mm tool steel or tip tool holders?
Thread: You might be able to help me
13/10/2009 15:07:38
Im sure there are people around who would have a go for you.  Where are you based exactly because it might be better for someone local to help.  Otherwise I would make one - as long as you don't mind waiting a fortnight.  I would be worried about making it in two parts because of concentricity issues - how important is this?   Rob.

Edited By Rob Manley on 13/10/2009 15:09:10

Thread: Quick Change Toolposts
11/10/2009 14:26:43
Haha, i just re-read your post and edited to suit.
 
 The shanks are tough but not hardened steel so aslong as you dont mind milling a 1/16th off the bottoms you will be fine.  After building up a set from shows and exhibitions of 11+ holders i can say that they are all full of tools ready to use - saves ages in setting tools up. 


Edited By Rob Manley on 11/10/2009 14:28:14

11/10/2009 14:22:16
oops, posting mistake

Edited By Rob Manley on 11/10/2009 14:27:57

Thread: Drilling problem
11/10/2009 14:11:23
I understand what you are saying but i always believe that if you are going to buy something - make sure it's the best quality you can afford and its not normally that much more than the poorer stuff (poor uni student so cant spend loads either - violin to follow :D ). I have found that cheap stuff is generally rubbish and gets thrown away pretty quickly - making it a total waste of money.  £44 on a set from 1-6mm is nothing and will last longer than i will.  When drilling brass / copper / bronze i always tend to lightly close the clamp on the quill/tailstock barrel to prevent it snatching but on lathe tools +1 on meyrick zaro rake.    
 
Re Geoff: the poor drill set strikes again!  Not the most expensive but if its good enough for industry and its a well recognised name then its good enough for us:  http://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/DAA-25050H/SEARCH:KEYWORD/product.html  Oh and i can recommend these for parallels - expensive maybe BUT you will never need another set - ever.
http://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/JLP-21040E/SEARCH:KEYWORD/product.html

Edited By Rob Manley on 11/10/2009 14:11:57

10/10/2009 19:51:38
Is having a decent set of drills in a workshop a must - yes.  I bought two sets from J&L, both hertel and going up from 1mm - 6 and 6mm-10 in 0.1mm increments.  They are the first thing i bought after i got the lathe because i could not do without them.  The metric set allow me to get as close to any size hole before reaming / getting that magical 75% engagement for tapping etc. It also means that i can go up in 4 thou steps if a hole needs opening out + use any imperial drill that comes in between.  
 
I don't think ive used an imperial drill under 3/8" for a very long time and all my work is done in imperial measurement.   When a drill becomes chipped or blunt through excessive use - such as my 'opening up' favourites, they get replaced as my equipment is not accurate enough to re-sharpen them to cut true and to size.  Its not expensive and it happens very infrequently.  Plus, as the flutes are tapered the further down you go, the smaller the diameter of the drill. 
 
I have a chart i printed off the computer similar to the one in the zeus book but much more complete with all the number size drills, letter drills, metric drills, standard imperial and standard metric sizes then their imperial decimal equivlent and its the most used document in the workshop.  I think it was printed in the ME. 
 
I would suggest that you buy yourself a small and larger metric set from a decent brand and keep them in good condition - you'll wonder how you survived without them.... my 2p
 
Thread: Douglas engine......again
26/09/2009 13:38:16
Hey again folks, just to say that im back off to Uni now so there won't be many more updates for a wee while except filling in the descriptions.  But i have uploaded many of the photo's showing construction techniques used.  The magneto is the latest thing to appear. 
 
 Rob.
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