Member postings for Bikepete

Not sure I'd agree with all of that, Neil.

For a start, everywhere I've looked optical scales are cheaper than magnetic ones (just an economy of scale thing, I think). Unless you mean some sort of magnetic scales I'm not aware of. Do you mean e.g. these?

And even before contemplating buying from China direct (from e.g. Siton Tech on Aliexpress) you can get a two axis optical scale package for barely over £300 from the likes of Machine DRO (and it's under £300 with the Black Friday discount). EMS-i offer similar kits but you'll have to ask for a price. No doubt many other suppliers too.

Personally for a decent lathe like the 280 I would not even consider capacitative (i.e. using same tech as digital calipers). Even if it stretches the budget, I'd go for a 'proper DRO' with optical scales, although it would probably make for a neater install to use one of the compact magnetic scales on the cross slide if budget permits (e.g. £15 extra at Machine DRO).

Also, ideally you'd get a 1 micron resolution scale for the cross slide rather than the standard 5 micron, again if budget permits. The reading is doubled to give diameter read-out, and the extra resolution compensates. Probably a few tens of pounds extra again.

Edited By Bikepete on 25/11/2016 15:57:33

I would think some variation on the sine bar approach would be the way to go...

That looks fantastic, congratulations!

FWIW, a somewhat similar problem with an ES-8 was reported recently here on the HSM forum.

I've been happy with refurb HP Laserjets off Ebay - they are remarkably cheap. Built for heavy office use and spares/compatible cartridges are cheap. I have one mono (4100) and one colour (3600) - for which each of the four toner carts is £25ish and lasts ages.

Several years since I bought those so might be worth going a generation or two newer now. But I'd do the same again.

Will never buy an inkjet printer - just a total rip-off - anything requiring photo quality or better than the colour laser can do, I get printed either online or at a local print shop.

Going back to the original query, it's not clear if you are looking for a generic motor and inverter bundle, or one of Newton Tesla's "pre wired" systems.

As various people have said, there are plenty of alternative suppliers for motors and inverters in general (for you to mount and connect up yourself, generally), and also options like Ebay, etc. - but as a nicely pre-packaged, bolt on option the Newton Tesla systems are hard to beat IMO. Should also be reliable - I had one on a mill for over a decade with no problems. The (metal cased) control panel is well laid out, the motor just plugs into it via a chunky connector, and it all 'just works'.

You can definitely get an inverter drive cheaper (and really, wiring them up etc. is easy enough) but the Newton Tesla system is a very tidy package and might be ideal for someone who doesn't want to mess with electrics.

Second the suggestion to give them a phone call in case emails aren't getting through.

Edited By Bikepete on 21/10/2016 19:41:05

Fusion 360 for 'big projects' but simpler stuff and odd jobs just get a quick sketch on a scrap of paper.

Might also be Deckel type 20mm collets with the sawtooth drawbar threads - plenty on ebay if so.

Thanks Michael, I'll be keeping it for now...

Just found the manufacturer's website BTW - seems new ones are expensive! There's also a downloads page which includes a PDF on periodic testing of ultrasonic cleaners. Sadly the pages are not in order, but it does describe the 'foil ablation test' in some detail, with some pictures of what to expect, alongside some other tests more relevant to medical use.

Mmm, after a bit more experimentation all seems well and perhaps indeed some expectation adjustment was in order

Think the main thing confusing me was that with the basket in place the agitation of the water pretty much disappears - just some smooth ripples left. With basket out and less water in the tub then the vigorous agitation of the water as described above is very obvious. Doing the kitchen foil test and holding to the light shows pinholes (mainly on creases) after 30 seconds both with and without basket, so it doesn't seem to change the effectiveness much. Not sure why I didn't see the holes last night.

Just cleaned some oddments and it does indeed work - not quite blasting away rust etc as might have been hoped but it does loosen dirt and grime. Used fairly hot water from the kettle with washing up liquid again - might try some of the other recipes in future. Also, some gentle brushing/poking with an old toothbrush during the cleaning process to remove loose crud seemed to help.

Would probably go for one with a heater if buying again - as well as any cleaning benefit, having the item hot means water evaporates off pretty fast once removed, so less chance of rust.

This thread reminded me to dig out an ebay purchase from some time ago, a Walker Ultrasonics unit (110W, about 2 litres I think) which the seller said came out of a dentist's surgery. It had been in a cupboard for a while as I wasn't that impressed when I first got it but never got round to digging into it.

Just tried it again with some hot tap water and washing up liquid. It buzzes away all right but there's little evidence of cleaning beyond what hot water and soap would do anyway. Tried some kitchen foil and it was unaffected after 10 minutes...

Took the bottom off it for a look and the transducer is still stuck to the bottom of the tank. Could that joint nonetheless have failed, explaining the buzz yet lack of cleaning? Or were dental units like this always designed to be rather more gentle than we need for cleaning bits of metal?

Grateful for any ideas to fix/otherwise make it more effective...

That Aliexpress link not working for me - let's see if this works: here for lathe version and here for a mill.

EDIT - they're a bit more pricey than the one Martin found... but they have English on the buttons...

Edited By Bikepete on 16/09/2016 18:09:01

Hi John,

I hope someone has helped you by now. If not, I fitted one of those to my drill a few years ago and would be happy to have a go at assisting you - but I would very much prefer to do so in public, here, so that others can chip in too and so that other readers can possibly benefit from reading about the problem and solution. If you could post a description of the problem then I'm sure I or someone else will be able to assist.

You probably already have it but the user manual is available here on the Yaskawa website.

If there is some reason it absolutely must be done by private correspondence then please feel free to message me.

Cheers

Pete

Welcome to the forum Mick! Hope you enjoy your retirement, the Sharp sounds superb!

Very interested in these stand alone controllers too (for a mill). Just had a look around for user reviews and found a useful thread on MadModder about the "DDCSV1.1" model which seems to be £146 shipped from China (on Ebay) or £178 shipped from Germany. Madmodder thread at:

**LINK**

which includes a link to the full 91 page user manual

**LINK**

John S, assume that's one of the ones you're talking about? (EDIT - presumably it is as you've posted on that MadModder thread too!)

Edited By Bikepete on 13/09/2016 14:51:25

Yes, a few other owners have been in touch via the Practical Machinist forum, also David Samways was very helpful and found an electrical schematic for me. Mine is a 53N BTW - the 53 or SV53 is a slightly different model...

Arnljot, I would just like to say I really enjoyed your videos about the Schaublin 22 on Youtube - I've just taken on a Schaublin 53N with some electrical damage and it was very interesting to see your work!

**LINK**

Hi Phil, sent you a message - see the 'inbox' link towards the top of your screen Cheers Pete

Have a spare barn, plenty of time and a car-size bath of rust remover? This listing is for you...

**LINK**

"Die Steigung darf gemessen innerhalb einer beliebigen Anzahl von Gangen , jedoch max auf 12" Lange nicht mehr als 0.0012"vom solmass abweichen"

The pitch may be measured over any number of threads, but it may not deviate from nominal by more than 0.0012" over a 12" length.