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Member postings for Tony Jeffree

Here is a list of all the postings Tony Jeffree has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 24 25 26 27 28 29
Thread: The Case for Clocks
04/11/2010 11:23:27
Posted by NJH on 04/11/2010 10:35:15:
Hi Sam
 
I've been waiting and hoping that you would get a flood of replies detailing good ways to remove excess polishing compound from clocks -  but there is a deafening silence !
Yes it is slow and tedious and the traditional peg wood still has its place. How about dental floss for some of the internal angles? I would be interested to know the success of your ultrasonic cleaner, and , if it works, where such a tool can be obtained.
 
Regards Norman 
 
 You can buy inter-dental brushes of various diameters that have always struck me as having potential uses for cleaning out pivot holes etc.
 
I purchased a small ultrasonic leaner from Aldi a couple of years back - not many ££ - it works fine, but the bath is way too small for cleaning clock plates. I have seen similar sized ones on sale at the various ME shows (although not as cheaply). Would be useful for cleaning individual wheels and smaller parts though. An ultrasonic cleaner big enough to accommodate clock plates would be nice, but not cheap.
 
Regards,
Tony
Thread: Titanium
31/10/2010 13:13:39
I have used reactive metals in the USA as a source of Titanium wire before now:
 
http://www.reactivemetals.com/
 
They are very responsive & don't have a minimum order if I recall correctly.
 
Regards,
Tony
Thread: The skeleton clock, 3D CAD image
31/10/2010 13:07:29
That is beautiful work, Sam.
 
Regards,
Tony
Thread: The Case for Clocks
31/10/2010 13:06:12
Sam -
 
I built a wall clock a while back (completed in Jan 2000) for which I built a case using glass and small section brass angle available from B&Q. The same constructional approach could be used to make a square or rectangular section "dome"; admittedly it would have brass corners, but it is easier to produce an acceptable end result this way than attempting to mitre joint acrylic sheet.
 
There is an article describing it here:
 
http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/3-4-sec-clock-case.html

Regards,
Tony
Thread: Drill Sharpening Jigs - Advice please.
22/10/2010 17:50:07
Posted by Niloch on 22/10/2010 17:13:37:
What about this?
 Looks good, but ~ 175 squid & I believe it is designed to fit a Tormek grinder - there's reference in the Q&A about the grinding being water cooled. No doubt you could cobble it onto something else though.
 
Not a lot there that you couldn't build yourself, of course, including the nifty one-size-fits-all drill clamp.
 
Regards,
Tony
21/10/2010 15:07:27
Posted by John Shepherd 1 on 24/09/2010 09:25:54:
Andrew
Thanks
 
Judging from the comments in the link, that looks like option 1 out then - I am not totally surprised.
 I used to own a Drill Doctor - unfortunately, its bedside manner left a lot to be desired. Admittedly I bought mine s/h, but it was in decent condition & had the instructional video to show you how easy it is, but I could never persuade it to give even acceptable results let alone good results. It sat on my bench taking up space for a couple of years before it went back on Ebay.
 
I'm currently building a Worden; will see if the drill sharpening jig for that is up to snuff.

Regards,
Tony
Thread: Tachometer design
20/10/2010 07:21:20
Posted by Les Jones 1 on 16/01/2010 12:45:14:
Hi All,
            I have built tachometers for my lathe mill and drill press in the past. The design was governed  by an easy way to sense the rotation and what bits I had lying around at the time. I was wondering if there would be any interest in a tachometer that could cope with between 1 and 99 pulses per rev. If there was I do not know if it would be best to try to get the design published in "Model Engineers Workshop" (Where it would more likely interest readers.) or in "EPE" electronics magazine who are more set up to provide printed circuit boards and programmed PIC's   One pulse per rev is useful if there are no gears in the drive train. One pulse per rev can be sensed easily with a reflective marker and optical sensor. If there are gears in the drive train a hall effect gear tooth sensor is easy to use.  The display would be a four digit LED display reading from about 30 RPM to 9999 RPM
 
Regards
Les
(Ormskirk Lancs.)
 I'm a bit late chiming in on this thread, but I wrote an article for MEW - published in issues 115 and 116 - describing a PIC-based tachometer that I designed a while back & which is available in kit form from http://medw.co.uk/. The article describes sufficient detail to do a DIY version if so desired: see http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/revmaster.htm and http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/tachometer-pcbs.html
 
The design will accept a wide range of sensors, but requires the sensor to generate 1 pulse per rev, 6 PPR, or 60 PPR .
 
Regards,
Tony
Thread: Digital inexing
03/09/2010 08:59:57
Niloch -
 
Using Divisionmaster is significantly easier than using a conventional dividing head; I don't think I have used a dividing head to date without screwing up somehow. Remembering where you are with a dividing head is fine until something breaks your concentration (the phone rings, someone walks into the room, your mind wanders because it is a tedious process...) and then suddenly you find you have cut a thin or thick tooth on the wheel. With Divisionmaster, you set the number of divisions and then just press a button to move to the next division.
 
I can't guarantee that it is fool-proof, but it is at least fool-resistant!
 
Regards,
Tony
02/09/2010 16:23:20
Niloch -
 
As the original designer/manufacturer of the Divisionmaster device, I can say that several of the indexers I sold before I passed the manufacture/sales operation accross to MEDW were to horologists, both amateur and professional. Many of the features of the design were the result of feedback from horologists that had particular requirements to meet; for example, Divisionmaster's otherwise infeasibly high max number of divisions (it can provide up to 9999 divisions, which is rather more than needed for the average clock wheel) is there because a clockmaker needed it in order to accurately position the drum of a musical clock for re-pinning. The reason why I built the original prototype was because I wanted to use the device for horology (amongst other things).
 
Regards,
Tony
<< First < Prev 24 25 26 27 28 29
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